smelting linotype

[calsite]

I've finally locatd some linotype type plate and going to be smelting some pretty soon, wanted to know if it was smelted identical to lead alloy? Same temperatures ? I had been using a cast iron pot on a turkey fryer base and a lead thermometer. Any thoughts of those who are experienced? Additonally what about casting temperatures?

[williamwaco]

I don't smelt it at all.

I use it only as an additive to harden softer alloys.
I usually only want a few ounces.
It is much easier to weigh and combine a few one and two ounce strips than one pound ingots.



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[FISH4BUGS]

....and let 'er fly. I can't see any reason at all to get any kind of lead over 850 or so degress anyway so just do it! You might want to keep it at around 650-700 just to make sure nothing bad (like zinc) could sneak in there somehow and get melted. Not sure your turkey fryer can get it that hot. Flux a lot!. Once you know nothing bad is in there you might want to buzz it up to 800 and flux, then stir it out and let it come back to 650.That way any alloys that separated would work their way back in.
I have 5 25 lb linotype pigs that I have to figure out how to melt. Probably chop them into smaller sizes and smelt.
I've got a Hurricane 65k BTU burner and a cast iron pot. Great setup with lots of horsepower.
Ain't smelting fun? Hope you have a lot of ingot moulds. That is the key to the production of ingots.....that and a good smelter setup.

[williamwaco]

Uh-oh

Linotype melts at a much lower temperature than most bullet alloys.
I would NOT recommend heating it above 600.
It will flow like water at 550.


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[Defcon-One]

Do exactly what williamwaco says!

The machines were run at 550 degrees Fahrenheit. It melts at 462 degrees Fahrenheit. The higher the temperature the faster the Tin will oxidize!

It is fun to smelt, but you don't need to smelt your Linotype!

DC-1

[lwknight]

I cast my linotype ingots at 540-560 degrees. They make super smooth glass like ingots with wavy surface on top.
Also there will be a good bit of dross and it can ALL be reduced back into solution with candle wax and some vigorous stirring.
You will have only a little carbon left floating.

[fredj338]

I don't smelt my lino either, no point really, just weigh what you need & add it to the pot.

[DrDucati]

I've come upon 100lbs of mixed monotype (mostly) and some linotype. First time melting in the cast iron pot over the fryer to pour ingots. It has shiny molten metal under a very thick goopy layer of silverish dross/metal/something.

Trying to decide whether
1) its zinc and I should skim it off (which is what I did)
2) its antimony and tin and I should try to work it in to the melt...I fluxed and stirred but it did not reduce by that much

poured some ingots after skimming. First set, a few of them broke. Again confusion: did they break because they need more cooling time? or because linotype is more breakable....or because it's got zinc in it? Ingots are mix of frosty and shiny. I've been marking my ingots by using a hammer and a monotype "p" stamp for the soft lead, and "w" for my wheelweights. As expected, the 'P' stamps deepest, then 'w' shallow, and the linotype mix does not take a monotype stamp.

thanks for any insights....

[bangerjim]

Just buy a set of hard metal stamps at Harbor Freight and forget using any monotype letters for stamping purposes!!!!!!!

And....

I HIGHLY recommend leaving mono/lino/foundry type in it's native letter form. That way you always know what it is. And if you ever want to sell any, people will know exactly what you have. In ingot form, it could be anything! I do not trust anyone!

banger

[twc1964]

Your ingots probably broke because you dumped em out of the mold too soon. Let em cool a bit longer. Usually a silvery layer on top is your antimony. You do not want to throw this away. If you skimmed it off and still have it, test it with muriatic acid. If it doesnt bubble, put it back in with your lino ingots and remelt it. Flux it several times and stir a lot.

[DrDucati]

thanks to both responses... also I read the LASC article. I waited longer to dump, and none of them broke. Also keeping the temp down and only adding linotype a ladle at a time and fluxing once I am satisfied after adding metal that the temp has recovered. Much less of that sludge.

Also, I may keep the rest of the type as original now that I have enough ingots as I would use in the next year.