Popper, I see what you meant about the consistent viscosity of soybean oil. Maybe that's why soy wax makes a good lube base. I'm not familiar with the viscosity units on that chart, I'm used to seeing it in centistokes.
Gear
Popper, I see what you meant about the consistent viscosity of soybean oil. Maybe that's why soy wax makes a good lube base. I'm not familiar with the viscosity units on that chart, I'm used to seeing it in centistokes.
Gear
Now I'm really wondering something. Soybeans are composed of all sorts of stuff, including lots of crude protein. I wonder if the soy protein could be added back to the refined oil and would bond with all the elements of the oil, in some sort of fatty acid matrix, which would form a structure like metal soap grease does. IOW, I'm thinking Tofu Lube.
Gear
I think you need to have a slogan contest for your new lube.
Suddenly, "eating lead" has become a bit more delicious!
uh... And with that sad offering I yield to those with a better sense of humor. Gotta be some good ones featuring jelly monsters and zombies with peanut allergies?
Thanks for the info... I still do think that just the pb fat will separate if left to sit at a temp higher than the melting point of the hydrogenated fat. Just cooking the daylights out of it doesn't disprove that... I suppose the usual emulsifiers maybe keeping it suspended, but I think I may have to park a jar in the sun before I believe it.
And then there is rancidity, spoilage, vermin, and the pooch gnoshing on your shootin pills.
Gear can probably use his new lube kit to add a bentone/silica gellant or thickener and recheck for separation, or mix in a microcrystalline wax?
Of course, need to test over a range of loads... I've found some pretty random stuff can work at low velocity with a good fitting bullet and low pressure.
I am curious what folks would consider a good lube test case (cartridge, alloy, bullet, sizing, ambient temperature, powder load, with what performance metrics).
Last edited by DrB; 04-12-2012 at 10:47 PM.
Oh gawd, more 'spearments! Just what I need. Ok, so mix up some soy wax and Baragel 24 and call me in the morning.....
Gear
That's just great untill the guy in the shooting position beside you goes down unexpectedly ! PEANUT ALERGIES ! Just the kind of day I have had i guess. As per normal, what you need can be found right in the kitchen cupboards .
Have you considered using summer chocolate as a carrier? The paraffin might do the trick.
If the lead poisoning doesn't get the zombies, maybe allergies will. This is just a nutty idea that I'm experimenting with. And the CB spin keeps the soft lube where it is needed. The first question is how fast I can push a CB til the lube fails. If I can get 1800-200 then I'll go to undersized CB to see how the sealer works.
So what if you mixed PB w/ BW??? I can't imagine the mess of lubing w/ straight PB.
Actually, rifle CBs are pretty easy. I did 50 .40 yesterday in 1/2 hr on a single stage press with a uniflow. I was working on technique and want to shoot a bunch to verify my previous test of 10. Did TL and regular this time. Now I just put it on the rear band and let the seater die push it into the groove. Any extra gets wiped off when done. No, the seater didn't smell rancid, I didn't clean it after the last session. Wife and I like PBJ on toast, she made some the other day in the toaster oven and the PB didn't separate any oil - the toast was really HOT. I kept a towel handy to wipe my fingers but didn't have to use it much. My 40 loads are about 28-30k psi, same as 30-30 but much slower ~900 vs ~ 1500-1900. Rifle range doesn't open until Wed, I'm anxious.
Back to the range with the 40. Not cleaned since last time, 10 PB, 100 45/45/10. Did 50 PB this time. lower R&L is ~25 each. I think the flyer was a TL I tried, not really sure it was a real flyer, or just me. Didn't even wipe the base, stored base up for 5 days. All fired, no powder contamination. max load of HP-38. I purposely cut (big cut) the bottom band with a knife on 5. Those are in the center and yes, there are actually 5. If the base band gas cut, the PB sealed the front band fine. Just now cleaned it. Dry patch gave barely visible specks, just a few. Streaking from alox lube wasn't evident before I cleaned. Just 1 tiny spot of lead (left over? I never checked) which was gone with a couple swipes of chore-boy. Bbl sparkles.
Works for me, no more TL. Rifle range wed.
Last edited by popper; 08-18-2012 at 01:05 PM.
Interesting. Ambient temperature, and range shot at?
How about some Smuckers PB natural no salt also if your hunting in the woods and get lost and are hungry you can bite the bullet. GD
Last edited by gandydancer; 04-19-2012 at 02:36 AM.
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60-65 F, ~10 ft, same as first try - I don't want several changes. I think my original flyer from first exp. was also a TL SWC, I know I did one. I think it is going slower, not faster, and shooting high (muzzle flip). I was really surprised by the damaged base shots, maybe I should damage all of them. I didn't even use any cleaning solvent to clean the bbl, just a loose, dry patch stuck on the end of the rod, chore-boy over brush and then a patch over the chore-boy brush. Put some M1 on a patch for storage and that patch didn't have any gunk on it. So far the PB lubes, cleans and appears to seal( haven't fired a damaged base CB to see the results with alox - or anything else). This is a BB Lee 180 TC plain groove. This is as fast as I can push in 40, book pressures are in the 30k range.
i wonder how it would work mixed with bees wax or paraphin.
Mixed results with 30-30, but not bad. Shooting a combo of RD311165 GC, alox, 23 Gr. LeveR and H4895 vs my 311165 cast (RD mould, 50/50 Pb/#2 arsenic HT @ 450), GC & PB, P-P PB lube, LeveR and H4895. I think the bbl got slight leading from the PB, accuracy wasn't great. I haven't cleaned it yet. Target compares RD311165 GC, alox, 23 Gr. LeveR vs mine, GC, 30 gr LeveR, PB lube. Last shots fired and felt recoil from the 30 load is similar to factory FTX(165 gr). Range is 50 yds. All fired OK. LeveR still is giving better results than H4895. I may have used too much PB, rifle has a slight PB smell now. Groups aren't bad for someone who isn't very good with full power loads and a 336. PB shots almost grouped - more testing on that needed. Still haven't found anything wrong with this lube. I'll be changing to Skippy or Kroger as I ate all the Peter Pan.
Last edited by popper; 08-18-2012 at 01:05 PM.
60 shots fired, 20 are carolina bullets .311 with his alox. The rest were my RD cast sized .312 and lubed with P-P PB, filled the standard lube grooves, half PB and the rest GC. Hotest load ~ 2200fps ( reports from here, 28 gr H4895 = > 2200, I used 30 LeveR but don't have a crony). Cleaned this morning, dry patch the chore-boy and Ed's red then dry patches. Saw 1 speck of shiny on 1 patch, rest were the standard black gunk. Inspecting the target with a 20x loop, I saw the RD -alox holes had a LOT of black gunk on them, the much faster PB lubed had very LITTLE gunk around them. PB must be bore cleaning like COW or just not as dirty. I think most of the bbl gunk is from running PB Cbs too fast. Still looks good as a lube. Would appreciate someone in 'cold' country try it and report results, it might get cod in Texas next year. For me it's goodby alox. Lloyd Smale - I see no need to add anything. I don't have a lubrisizer and you can't store these in a box. I did lube several, set them on waxed paper while I was loading others. It's a 3 groove bullet so I don't feel I lost much lube - filled all 3. As Gearnasher stated, maybe a soy based was would help stiffen it. Paraffin won't take the velocity. Smoke is comparably to my Mark III 22 with Fed bulk ammo.
Last edited by popper; 08-18-2012 at 01:05 PM.
Shot another 40 today, tumble lubed, about 1/4 teaspoon in a plastic tub and roll-shake a lot until they looked coated good. Makes loading a LOT less messy. Bore is still CLEAN. Accuracy @ 50' as reasonable, considering my back is about to quit working. Alloy is now 98/2 Pb/#2. Shot 50 lubed by hand, couldn't tell any difference.
So you tumbled your .40 boolits in PB and just loaded and shot them? That's impressive. I'm assuming not much got in the grooves. What brand PB did you use?
Gear
I used Skippy(creamyer the better) this time and it was the end of the jar, scraped out with a spatula, been sitting in the garage for a week. Actually got a lot in the groove, not full, but it doesn't seem to take much. Did 40 TL and 50 slobbered on, couldn't tell any difference in anything except it is not nearly as messy to load. Took about 10 min to load the 40, 20 min for the 50 - and NO squibs this time.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |