2 Stroke Oil

[wtfooptimax200]

I've seen 2 stroke oil mentioned numerous times on this site and I don't intend to start a flame war debating whether 2 stroke oil is equal to Bullplate or not, so please don't go there. What I am wondering is, what applications do you use it for? Does it perform satisfactorily? Thanks for any help,

Branden

[Ben]

Branden :

I've used it, it works.

I put a SMALL amount of 2 stroke oil on a Q-tip and rub the underside of the sprue plate ( ONLY when the plate is up to casting temp) and on the tops of the mold blocks. Be certain not a millionth of a micon of this stuff gets into the mold cavity. I also coat the alignment pins with it. I also put a tiny drop on the sprue plate hold down screw and washer. Do all this when the mold is HOT. If you can see any liquid lube on the top of the mold or the underside of the plate when you finish, you've put too much lube on, you'll need to wipe off any excess with a clean cotton cloth.

When I was younger, ( many , many years ago...... ) Brylcream had a commercial that went like this..." A little dab will do ya ". So true with this technique.

Whether it is the equal of Bullplate or not, - - - I can't say ( and I really don't care if it is or not ). However, it does work.

[bigjason6]

I'm just curious here. But what exactly is the reason for lubing the pins and the sprue plate?

[Ben]

Dry alignment pins can wear.

If the sprue plate is running dry, especially on an aluminum mold, it will gald and damage the tops of the blocks ( especially if the plate is too tight ) . The lube also helps to prevent lead from smearing on the underside of the sprue plate when you are cutting the sprue.

[MT Gianni]

I'm just curious here. But what exactly is the reason for lubing the pins and the sprue plate?

Just as in an engine unlubed, moving parts and mating surfaces wear very fast. Lubes last longer and operate easier.

[warf73]

Since I've started lubing my molds they don't gald anymore.

[Wally]

I use a miniscule dab of lithium grease on the bottom of the sprue plate. I apply it when the sprue plate is hot--dab it on, then wipe with a rag...

[trk]

I use a miniscule dab of lithium grease on the bottom of the sprue plate. I apply it when the sprue plate is hot--dab it on, then wipe with a rag...

I use titanium dioxide (powder in a dab of grease) for mould lube. Sprue plate and mould faces - not cavity - works VERY well.

[Ben]

trk

and mould faces

Are you referring to the tops of the mold blocks where the sprue plate contacts the mold blocks ?

[cbr]

I recently tried using a synthetic 2 stroke oil on my molds and found that it works well, but seems to burn off faster than bullplate lube. I can't seem to remember what brand oil I used, maybe other brands would work better? My molds seem to last longer and stay cleaner since I started lubing the sprue plates.

[Suo Gan]

Stihl synthetic works.

[Dirtdgger]

+1 on the stihl. I mixed up a batch of speed green with a little of randy rats carnuba wax works really good.

[pistolshooter]

well, that clears up a couple of questions I had about lubing a mould, Bullplate, etc. The one question I still have is how often do I need to lube the mould using 2 cycle oil or lithium grease, both of which I have on hand? Is there a way to tell when it has all burned off or do I just do it lube every time I start a new casting session?
On a side note to Ben for the Brylcream reference. Now I can't get that jingle out of my head....

[Buckshot]

well, that clears up a couple of questions I had about lubing a mould, Bullplate, etc. The one question I still have is how often do I need to lube the mould using 2 cycle oil or lithium grease, both of which I have on hand? Is there a way to tell when it has all burned off or do I just do it lube every time I start a new casting session?

..............Forget the lithium grease. I don't know if Bullplate was 2 cycle oil or what it was. I also suspect that if it WAS/IS that, that it was most likely a synthetic. Regardless, to answer your question about 'when' to re-lube, it's hard to explain because for me I re-apply when the mould "Feels" like it's time Chances are once you use it and spend a day casting you'll undoubtedly use too much at first, and then you'll get THAT figured out. After feeling how a mould is operating WITH it, after a period of time you'll also be able to feel when it's about time to refresh it. If you're cooling the SP or the blocks on a damp pad you'll also have to re-apply it more often. When I re-apply it I use the same swab I originally used. With the SP swung open I swipe the tip of the swab a single stroke down each block. Flip the mould over so the underside of the SP is facing up. I give it a swipe down each side of the holes toward the edge of the plate, then dab each alignment pin. Takes less then 10 seconds and I'm back in bidness .

...................Buckshot

[Forrest r]

+1 on what everyone recommended where they use the 2 stroke oil.

I also use the 2 stroke oil on my mold handles. I use it on the pivot knuckle & on the arm that hold the molds along with the screws/pins that hold the molds. Everything just works/swivels better & the molds just seem to line up better when closing.

Give some a try, it's cheap insurance for your molds that will allow you to cast better bullets easier. It also has other uses from making bullet lube to one of the best gun oils you'll ever find.

[pistolshooter]

Thanks Buckshot. That makes sense to me now. I cast tons of boolits (when I used to live in SoCal) and never lubed anything, but then again that was a long time ago. I sure have learned a lot reading the posts on this site. Makes the sport much more enjoyable when you know more tricks, and the reasons why things are done.

[geargnasher]

First rule of mechanics: If it moves, it needs lubrication. Dissimilar metal+heat+pressure+movement= galling or binding. Proper application of proper viscosity and temperature range lubricant prevents this. A properly conditioned mould is smooth as silk.

MikeS put a thread up recently in this section about the how-to's of using mould lubricants along with som pics from a mould lube supplier. Check it out. The rule with synthetic two-stroke oil and Bullplate both is LESS IS MORE. It wicks when hot, and will migrate into the cavities and cause issues if not use very, very sparingly and only applied where indicated.

Gear

[geargnasher]

Oops, it was in the lube forum, not this one. check it out: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=137982

Gear

[trk]

trk

and mould faces

Are you referring to the tops of the mold blocks where the sprue plate contacts the mold blocks ?

bottom of sprue plate,
top surfaces of mould, and
mating surfaces in the middle of the mould.

all of 'em.

[MajorJim]

Interesting thread.

We were always looking for the best lube for the AR platforms that had to run "wet". About the best thing we found that was affordable was Mobil One or similar synthetic oil. Can get it in a slew of different viscosities. Worked like a charm. If I recall correctly, it does have zinc in it, so you'd have to be careful to avoid getting it in the cavity.