how to heat the mould

[Chrome1981]

Hello

The thing that makes me lose more time is to heat the right temperature to my mould (Lee 452-230 Cavity 1R 6).

I try to warm up by pouring molten lead..... until i don't see more wrinkles on mu boolits( i feel a newbie!)

but is there something to warm the mold?, is there a special technique?

Thank you!

[P.K.]

I use a colman stove to heat my pot and just lay the mould on top of the pot while my mix melts. By the time it has my mould is pretty warm.

[Springfield]

I dip the corner of mine into the molten lead for a count of 100. Saves doing 6-10 pours while waiting for the mould to heat up.

[94Doug]

I think the general technique would be setting the mould on top of your heat source for some time before you cast... a lot of folks are now buying a hot plate and placing a pc of metal on the burner, then placing the mould on that for warm up. (If you can get a "lab" style hot plate, that part is done for you) Other than that, you are using the same form as I have, heat up with lead.

[94Doug]

Wow, all three posts at the same time.

Doug

[montana_charlie]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...8&postcount=25

[Springfield]

I could use my hotplate but it just takes more energy that way. My hotplate actually has a ceramic burner so it is flat on top. Sometimes I use it to keep moulds hot when I cast with 2 at a time.

[seagiant]

Hi,
To the OP. With the LEE type 6- cav. (I have a 6-cav Mihec) You need to preheat the mold so you do not break or damage you're sprue plate handle when you break the sprue! FWIW ACE Hardware sells a nice single hot plate and a old wore out 7 1/4" circular saw blade fits it perfect and will protect the mold from hot spots. Once you get used to this set up you can make perfect boolits from the first cast! No wrinkles and better for wear and tear on the mold! Remember, keep it simple!

[thehouseproduct]

ACE! I didnt check there. In california, a single burner hot plate is made of unicorn horn. I eventually had to order one online after visitng too many stores.

[Dan Cash]

I cast over a double burner gas fire. One burner melts lead and the other heats moulds.

[462]

ACE! I didnt check there. In california, a single burner hot plate is made of unicorn horn. I eventually had to order one online after visitng too many stores.

Don't know where you looked, but they are readily available from Walgreens and the dollar stores.

[insanelupus]

I have an old hotplate plugged in close to the lead pot. I have an older circular saw blade on top and place the mould on that. I also cut an older metal 1 lb. coffee can in half and use that to cover the top of the mould, effectively making a cheap oven. Works good.

[mold maker]

Yep,,, $10. Hot plate with saw blade and #10 food can cut in half with a window for an oven.

[Mike W1]

Or make a shelf and use the heat that's already there!

[sabot_round]

Or make a shelf and use the heat that's already there!

This is a great idea!! Thank you Sir!! BTW Did you have to get longer screws for it to fit??

[geargnasher]

I find that the open-style heat sinks unsatisfactory for my commercial aluminum and brass moulds, especially for heating the sprue plates. Too much radiant heat loss from the blocks being in the open air like that, even sitting on top of the hot plate.

Here's my solution, shamelessly copied (in concept) from a picture Monana Charlie posted a while back:



Leave the 100-watt open-coil hotplate on nearly high, the air inside gets to about 450 degress, leave the mould inside with the block halves open a bit for at least 15 minutes to get a good heat soak. I leave it on during a casting session and dock the mould back in there if I need to pause for even a few seconds during a casting session, that way I don't lose any time or have extra culls getting it going again after a break.

Gear

[seagiant]

Hey Gearnasher!
Thanks! Another project!!! Nice setup! Ha!

[Mike W1]

This is a great idea!! Thank you Sir!! BTW Did you have to get longer screws for it to fit??

Used the factory screws on mine. I'm thinking it was 1/8" aluminum. An earlier discussion on the CB-List talked about the shelf drawing heat from the pot and not to make it any bigger than necessary. I've not noticed it to be a problem. The lip is there but spaced so it keeps my 2-cavity mould lying flat. Also nice to prewarm the ingots on it.

[byronw999]

If I'm in a hurry and need to cast several different bullets I use a single burner hotplate to warm up all the molds I need... When not in any particular hurry I just leave the corner dipped into the pot...

[JSnover]

I find that the open-style heat sinks unsatisfactory for my commercial aluminum and brass moulds, especially for heating the sprue plates. Too much radiant heat loss from the blocks being in the open air like that, even sitting on top of the hot plate.

Here's my solution, shamelessly copied (in concept) from a picture Monana Charlie posted a while back:



Gear

Nice. My solution would have been to buy an old toaster oven (yard sales are full of them), replace the glass window, with a piece of sheet metal cut out the way yours is.