1911

[Maineboy]

A month or so ago I posted about aquiring a 1911 in a trade with my son. This is a gun he built from parts. I am shooting a Lee 230 grain RN boolit over 5 grains of AA #2, their suggested starting load. I have about 125 rounds through this gun and so far I have had no failures to feed, however the slide does not always return, it gets hung up about 2/3 of the way back. Slight pressure on the back of the slide with the thumb of your shooting hand will get it to fully return. I have 3 new magazines and it happens with all of them. I found the slide rails were rough and had a few burrs, which I stoned off and now the slide will slide freely on the frame. When I put the barrel, bushing, recoil spring, guide etc back in, you can still feel a definate grating when you rack the slide. It's not nearly as bad as it was though. Lately it has been returning fully when I shoot it, but I had Mrs. Maineboy shoot it yesterday and the slide failed to return about half the time when she shot it. Like I said, just a bit of pressure on the rear of the slide will get it to return fully. Now I know that you need a firm grip on an auto pistol to ensure proper functioning and she is not gripping as hard as I am, but there must be more to this problem. I wonder if the grating I feel when I rack the slide is caused by the chamber end of the barrel rubbing on the slide? Would a heavier recoil spring be the answer? I know very little about 1911 pistols and could use some help. BTW, this gun isn't very accurate but I find it great fun to shoot.

[dragonrider]

Try polishing the breech face first, no files, stones only. You want to make the surface as smooth as possible, a mirror finish if you can. The feed ramp is another possible problem, polish it also. Barrel lugs and their mating lugs in the slide need to smoothed out. You could also try a heavier recoil spring though I would do that last, work on the fit and function first. hope this helps.

[Baldy]

No power tools at all. Like Dragorider said stones and very lightly polish the throat and feed ramp. You need to get the pistol slide and fit working first. Lap it in with a real fine rubbing compund on the rails. Try it again at the range and see how it does before you order a new return spring. You probley have a 16lb spring in the pistol and I would order the same. Wolff is a good spring. Shoot ball ammo till you get it running right and good luck.

[versifier]

I suspect that it just need a few hundred more rounds through it and that it's not broken in yet. If you hit the 500 round mark and you are still having failures to go into battery, then by all means go for it and stone/polish more. Marking fluid or even a felt tip marker can help you figure out where the "grating" you noticed is occurring.

[shooter2]

Try polishing the breech face first, no files, stones only. You want to make the surface as smooth as possible, a mirror finish if you can. The feed ramp is another possible problem, polish it also. Barrel lugs and their mating lugs in the slide need to smoothed out. You could also try a heavier recoil spring though I would do that last, work on the fit and function first. hope this helps.

Good advice. When the gentleman says polish, do that and nothing more. Especially the feed ramp. Take too much off here and you've ruined a good gun.

[scrapcan]

The 1911 is a fun handgun and is a design that allows an individual with a willingness to learn cqn do many things to make the handgun reliable. Here are some ideas of what to look at.

First is a note that I have to make for all new 1911 shooters that I have helped is related to the recoil spring. There is a right and wrong way to put it in, this is most likely not your problem but it should be stated. the tight end of the spring goes on the guide rod. The open coil goes into the plug. You can also add a recoil buffer to increase the spring pressure slightly without changing the spring.

Second is if you have a full length guide rod polish it also. anything that can slow teh slide could be adding to your problem. you might be able to see some scuffing on barrel without the layout die.

Third take a marker, color really does not matter, you are just using it like layout fluid. color the top of teh barrel and see if you are rubbing the top of barrel on the slide as it cycles. If this is happening you may have to fit a new barrel link.

You should also check to see that the link operates freely with the slide stop pin in it. Take the barrel out of the pistol and put the slide top through it and actuate like it would as the barrel would lock unlock. You may find that you have a bur or tight spot as the link/stop cam over teh lug on the barrel. If it does stone a little off and polish lug.

Check slide fit with out barrel installed. Detail strip so you only have the slide and frame. clean and slightly lube the rails install slide and tilt muzzle up. you shoudl get sone movement of slide to rear, Even rellay tight competition guns will move. You can also check for drag/tight spots at with frame and slide. If you have bad fit you can lap at this point also. Go slow if you do any lapping or stoning. You should also check for burs on teh bottom of slide rails.

When you reassembly put just a dab of assebly lube or gun grease in the center of slide that rides over the disconnector and hammer.

At what point does the slide stick? has it already picked up the cartridge? How much does the slide have to move to go into battery? This could be an extractor issue also. The extractor may not be snapping over the rim of the cartridge. you can slightly bevel the bottom edge of extractor slot. Just enough to break the sharp edge.

Also check to see that the ejector is not dragging on the slide. if it is dress the top and side of the ejector slightly.

And to help us help you tell us what parts have been fit? Some times drop in parts are not really drop in, knowing what aprts were used can help to identify your problem.

[Maineboy]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. In reverse order:
Manleyjt, my understanding is that this pistol was born from a frame my son purchased when he had his FFL and the rest of the parts were from some sort of "kit". I would guess they a mixture of used and surplus parts. For example, the slide is Brazillian. He had some help assembling it from a friend who knows something about 1911s. I don't think the ejector is dragging. The slide seems to start sticking shortly after catching on the cartridge in the magazine. You can feel it happen when you hold the slide as it moves forward. The magazine does not have to be in place to feel it. The slide does slide freely when detailed strip. It didn't before I did some polishing of the rails. I'll have to investigate if the barrel is rubbing on the slide per your suggestion.
Versifier, I will put a few hundred more rounds through it before making any major modifications. The little bit of work I've already done has already made a noticeable difference.

[Char-Gar]

The first thing I would check is the barrel link. They comes in various heights that control the lock up of the barrel into the slide. If the link is too long, it will cause what you discribe. It is pushing the barrel up to far to soon.

[rebliss]

Lots of good answers here--I'd suspect the barrel link/and lugs. However, there's one thing no one has suggested yet:

Check to be sure all of your reloads chamber properly. Take the barrel out and drop each one into the chamber, or check them in a case gauge.