9mm Luger and .357 molds

[libertyman777]

Hey,

I get together with some shooting friends and we pool our money with ordering powder, primers and various other supplies to save on Hazmat, shipping, etc.

An order has been put in and I would like to pick up two molds, one for 9mm Luger and the other for .357 Mag. I'm new to casting and realize that neither will probably be the end all mold but I also don't want to reinvent the wheel either.

So what's a couple of good mold profiles to start with. I really like Lee reloading equipment, cost vs value. Also, will I need to size these projectiles?

Thanks,

Paul

[nvbirdman]

Since you are new to boolit making I would recommend the Tumble Lube molds from Lee. You should not have to size them, but when you send in your order be sure to order one 4oz bottle of Lee Liquid Alox too. As far as the weight and shape, it shouldn't matter too much untill you get really involved in casting, and by then you won't mind spending the money for a few more moulds. If you don't want the tumble lube moulds, the Lee sizing kits work very well with standard moulds and come with a bottle of liquid alox included.

[Az Rick]

Paul, My vote for a .357 mould would be a 158gr. semi wadcutter, for the 9mm a 125gr. truncated cone for reliable feeding. As far as sizing goes you wouldn't have to at first but will probably want to later. You could probably improve accuracy some. It gets into other issues, chamber throats, bore diameter and other things. Not all moulds, same maker same mould number will throw the same diameter bullet. Not all alloys make the same size bullet. It's better to have a mould that throws larger diameter bullets because they can be sized down easily.
Short answer, get some moulds, cast some and shoot'em. All that other stuff will fall into place later.

Best,Rick

[cbunt1]

For a starter in the .357, I'd run with the TL358-158-SWC, which is a large meplat SWC tumble-lube bullet. Plenty of good loads to work up with that, both for .38 spl and .357 mag.

For the 9mm, I'd start with the TL356-124-2R, which is a tumble-lube mold, and very close to a "hardball" profile found in the average "j-word" bullet. Again, plenty of good load data to go with them.

That's all assuming you're headed for the tumble-lube--which is a GREAT place to start. Grab one of the Lee sizing kits in .358 and .356 and you should be in business. And they work well whether you're lubing TL or standard grooves.

Also you can do just fine with Alox/Tumble lube on standard bullets as well....it just happens that some really good basic starter slugs are available with the tumble lube grooves.

Note that there are many reports of 9mm's that prefer .357 sized bullets...but I'd start with the .356 anyway. My personal experience is that my Beretta will send any .355 end over end quite nicely. The gun will tell you all you need to know on that one. No harm no foul though.

Welcome to the addiction!

[Dannix]

You should be able to find a lot of good suggestions using the forum search function. That's actually how I came across your post just now.

I'm looking around at the 9mm molds myself. The 358-125-RF has caught my eye, as well as BRP's 358-136 PB (see post #8 here).

There's a current 357 thread going on in another subforum right now: Best 357 mold?

[chris in va]

You can use the Lee 358-125-RF mold in both. Mine drops at .362 though, so it'll have to be sized. It solved all the tumbling issues I had with previous 9mm .356 molds.

[kawalekm]

Lyman's 358477 SWC weighs about 150 grains in #2 alloy. Sized either .356" or .358" I use this bullet in 9mm, 38 special, and .357 magnum.

[shotman]

well if you want one have a 4 cav Lyman near new for $75shipped no handles
its the 356402 shotman

[zxcvbob]

I like the Lee 358-158-RF bullet, but I haven't really loaded it hot yet (still have commercial cast bullets for that) It has a huge flat nose, almost like a wadcutter, and cuts clean holes.

[MtGun44]

RCBS 38-150 SWC (which used to be 38 - 150 - KT) is extremely good in .38 and .357 mag, and
is a plain base to save you money over a GC design. GCs are a crutch and not necessary for
any loads up to .357 Mag max velocity loads with ACWW. Lyman 358477 is nearly identical to
the RCBS design and is also a top notch choice in the 150 gr form. Lyman 358429 is also a
great design, a bit heavier at 173 gr nominal and seems to be a bit happier at the hot end
of the loading range. The other two work well from low pressure plinking right up to 16+ gr of
H110 at max pressures without GCs or water dropping, just AC WWts. Lee 358 158 RF is another
top performer, a LBT design rather than the Keith-type design used by the other three.

For 9mm, I have had consistent excellent results with Lee 356 125 TC conventional lube groove
design, NOT tumble lube. IMO, tumble lube is a lube system which has low first cost as it's
only advantage, and seems to work reasonably often for moderate velocity & pressure
applications. Neither .357 Mag or 9mm are optimum for TL IMO. We get a constant stream of problems
asking for help by people starting with the attractively priced TL designs in 9mms. You may
have success with TL in 9mm, but many do not. Pan lubing and sizing with a Lee push
thru die or not sizing at all are excellent, low cost choices for processing conventional lube
groove designs.

Make sure you size your 9mms to at least .357, unless you slug the bore and find it is
.355, which happens, but is relatively uncommon. For .38/357 revolver loads, size to your
cylinder throat (front) diameter or +.001 or even +.002 for best performance. AC WW are
also just fine here. Water dropping to harden is NOT necessary in either caliber,
regardless of the old wives tales that hard boolits are required. NOT true. There is no
real correlation between harder boolits and reduced leading. FIT is king, and a bit
oversized is usually the best fit. Extremely soft in the 9mm may have a bit of deformation
during feeding, which is usually only a cosmetic issue, but occasionally, esp with rough
feed ramps, may contribute to FTFs.

Good luck.

Bill