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Thread: Mold marking

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
    malpaismike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Sierra Vista, AZ
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    97

    Mold marking

    Hello the camp! I worked with an ol' master mechanic who told me there were no stupid questions, only stupid mistakes. So, I asked him my question and he said, "Lemme take that back.....".
    Being hard-core untrainable, here 'tis: is there a good reason NOT to mark my molds with mold no., cal and wt, or whatever I figure I need? Using a vibra-pencil, I would put info on the flat above the handle dado. Appreciate your take on this. thxnregards mm
    Malpais Mike

  2. #2
    Boolit Master in Heaven's Range
    AZ-Stew's Avatar
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    Jul 2006
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    Mesa, AZ
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    2,006
    Be sure the mould blocks don't beat against each other while you're marking them. You might incur some damage. Otherwise, I see no problems. I've bought several group-buy moulds and when they arrived, I marked them with the group-buy sequence number (for me) and the caliber, weight, and if necessary, an abbreviation of the boolit style. I did mine with metal stamps and a small ball pein hammer. There's lots of room along the bottom edge of a Lee six-banger, below the handle slot.

    Regards,

    Stew
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master



    mpmarty's Avatar
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    Feb 2008
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    I use a labelmaker and attach the label to the handle.
    Last edited by mpmarty; 12-02-2010 at 04:23 PM. Reason: spelling

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check