Lee PrecisionRotoMetals2WidenersRepackbox
MidSouth Shooters SupplyInline FabricationReloading EverythingTitan Reloading
Snyders Jerky Load Data
Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: What happened to my flux?

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Manitoba
    Posts
    56

    What happened to my flux?

    I'm new to casting. The first few times I fluxed with wood shavings they just turned into white ash.

    Then I added tin for making HP bullets and this is what formed on top.

    Is it the tin oxidizing?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails flux.jpg  

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    454PB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Helena, Mt.
    Posts
    5,389
    Looks more like dirt. Was the tin reclaimed?
    You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore

  3. #3
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Manitoba
    Posts
    56
    It is pure tin bars.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Manitoba
    Posts
    56
    I guess I should say that the rest of the alloy is clean WW

  5. #5
    Banned


    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    29˚68’27”N, 99˚12’07”W
    Posts
    14,662
    That's strange, never experienced that one before. I'll bet it isn't the sawdust causing that.

    Gear

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    lwknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas where the west begins
    Posts
    3,418
    Did you by chance use saw dust from treated lumber?
    If so that could be arsenic and or salt left over.
    Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
    Melting Stuff is FUN!
    Shooting stuff is even funner

    L W Knight

  7. #7
    In Remembrance - Super Moderator & Official Cast Boolits Sketch Artist

    RP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Nahunta NC
    Posts
    3,410
    Looks like he used treated wood and if not maybe the added tin helped remove more crud that was stuck on sides of pot and in the lead its self.
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master



    cbrick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Kalifornia Escapee
    Posts
    8,034
    Looks quite odd to me. Logic would say it's something that was in the alloy/wood shavings.

    Bottom line is: How does the alloy cast now?

    Better? Worse? The same?

    Sawdust is quite good at removing unwanted things while reducing both tin and antimony back into the melt so . . . How does the alloy cast?

    Rick
    "The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

    "Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

    NRA Benefactor Life Member
    CRPA Life Member

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Manitoba
    Posts
    56
    Wood shavings are choke cherry that I cut myself.

    The alloy casts fine I think. Before I added the tin the boolits were too small. Pics of boolits here http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=92674

    "the added tin helped remove more crud that was stuck on sides of pot and in the lead its self."
    This kind of makes sense because I could sometimes feel grit on the sides of the pot. Also I used up a bunch of lead before I saw this stuff on top so maybe as the level went down the junk came to the top.

    I was worried about this stuff being my tin because I was casting with my 4-20 pot maxed out and I read that the hotter it is the faster it oxidizes.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,417
    I got the same thing on the top of my melt when I was using a Lee 4-20 pot run hot. I used some heart pine to stir and flux. I left it on top of the melt to limit oxidation with all the added pewter,2-5%, to get good fillout of buck shot.

    Since I've dropped my casting temp there is less of this on the surface. Never hindered good boolits or shot produced.

    The heart pine I use has a lot of resin. Could be a result of 'green' wood sawdust and most of the cherry in my area will run sap when cut.
    Last edited by jsizemore; 09-19-2010 at 05:55 PM.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master fryboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    3 1/2 miles out past the stix on the 9.9
    Posts
    2,774
    hmmmm.... heavy ? crumbly ? some say that the tannin/oils in pine/cedar is best [shrugz] my guess would be a combination of perhaps still some impurities in the alloy and those impurities reacting to the choke cherry , choke cherry is much like treated wood in some ways it has it''s own poison tho and didnt need it pressure treated ( tho that part mite help the longevity of it lolz )

    " The bark of chokecherry root was once made into an asperous-tasting concoction used to ward off or treat colds, fever and stomach maladies by native Americans[9] The chokecherry fruit can be used to make a tasty jam, jelly, or syrup, but the bitter nature of the fruit means you need a lot of sugar to sweeten the preserves.
    Chokecherry is toxic to horses, especially after the leaves have wilted (such as after a frost or after branches have been broken) because wilting releases cyanide and makes the plant sweet. About 5-10 kg of foliage can be fatal. Symptoms of a horse that has been poisoned include heavy breathing, agitation, and weakness. The leaves of the chokecherry serve as food for caterpillars of various Lepidoptera. See List of Lepidoptera which feed on Prunus. " etc

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prunus_virginiana

    btw ? dont take the poison too seriously unless u consume in mass quantities , note that a diluted dose was administered for meds , as noted above the proof's in the ummm pouring try it next time with a different wood [shrugz] i had one batch of alloy that seemed to take several fluxings to get all the sand (?) out

  12. #12
    In Remembrance
    oneokie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Jackson County, Choctaw Nation, Indian Territory
    Posts
    4,873
    Leave a good layer of sawdust/ash on top of the melt in the pot while casting. Prevents oxidation and helps keep the pot walls clean.
    Those who fail to study history are doomed to repeat it.

    “A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity”. Sigmund
    Freud

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Manitoba
    Posts
    56
    jsizemore: Yep, green sawdust.

    fryboy: Yes it is heavy and crumbly.

    oneokie: Yep I was leaving a good layer of sawdust on top, but this last time it didn't turn into fluffy ash.

    I have some dried spruce-pine shavings that came in a big brick. I will use that next.

    Thanks everyone.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    lylejb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    canby, or
    Posts
    907
    I've had smaller amounts of that stuff when using green pine shavings.

    I don't get it when using parafin wax.

    No, it's not tin

    I think it's some kind of minerals from the sap, but not really sure.

    never worried about it, just scooped it off with the other junk.

    hasn't been a problem.
    NRA life member

    LB

  15. #15
    Boolit Master fryboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    3 1/2 miles out past the stix on the 9.9
    Posts
    2,774
    if it's real heavy u mite try adding it to ur next smelt but if it weighs about the same as a comparable spoon of dirt eh .... toss it

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master
    454PB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Helena, Mt.
    Posts
    5,389
    Yes, it looks like the junk that collects on the interior of my Lee melters. Apparently that sawdust flux does a really good job.
    You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check