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Thread: Linotype-learned a lesson today

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    351
    Quote Originally Posted by mustanggt View Post
    I have read so many different opinions about what temp to set your melt at depending on alloy. Just when I think I got it figured out someone says something different. I've seen guys say that once all alloy constituents are mixed together they can't come undone at the temps we typically cast at. Some of this stuff has to be set in stone physics-ly speaking of course. I have cast at 800 and got good boolits. I've cast at 700-750 too and have had good boolits.
    There are always, and always will be, differing opinions on the ideal temperatures.

    Here are but a few of the things which contribute to variance:
    1. Mold material- iron, aluminum, brass? Each material has differing properties of heat retention, thus affecting the casting pace used.
    2. Size of cavities.
    3. Number of cavities.
    4. Alloy being used- one person's alloy is probably not identical to another person's alloy, even though both are using "lino" or "WW".
    5. Casting pace of the individual. Somebody casting at a faster pace keeps the mold hotter.
    6. Casting method of individual- ladle or bottom-pour? How much "drop" from pour spout to mold?
    7.Calibration of equipment, especially thermometers. Your thermometer may read 650, another may read 675. Which one do you quote?
    8. And on and on and on...

    Don't sweat it too much. Personally, I always cast at lowest temp possible for the combination at hand. But in the end it's all about the end result- quality bullets.

    Most of the time the higher temps are quoted to make up for deficiencies elsewhere in the casting chain. If you feel the temp for you is too high, evaluate all factors involved and try lower.

    Good luck,
    Rob

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy mustanggt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Dry side of Wa. state
    Posts
    497
    I normally just cast and go. I really do enjoy it alot but I peruse these threads here and I see others experience and then start to second guess my procedures. I'm always looking to do it better than the last time. I'm always wanting to learn more. So I guess I'll just go with what I've already learned and relax. Thanks alot.
    If liberals knew what they were missing, they’d give up drugs, sex and rock-n-roll for shooting and hunting. But then the rest of us would never draw an elk tag, so to hell with 'em! — James "Mitch" Vilos aka (Pancho Vilos)

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check