I just got a sale flyer in the mail today from MidSouth Shooters Supply. There's a couple tumblers on sale in the flyer.
I just got a sale flyer in the mail today from MidSouth Shooters Supply. There's a couple tumblers on sale in the flyer.
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
I have a (original) 35 year old Lyman 1200 that's on it's third motor. Also have a newer one. The new one came with a 1/4" shaft ball-bearing motor. Properly tightening the nut that holds the bowl on it's shaft controls the noise of both very well, I get no more than a soft hum from either.
Based on my very long experience, Fryboy's #4 post with the Natchez deal for the bigger Lyman would be my choice if I wanted a bigger unit for a rational price. Even it's costly but there is NO justification for the price of most others (IMHO).
They consist of a simple/CHEAP to make plastic bowl, lid and base, a few springs, an inexpensive motor and a power cord and they sure aren't difficult to assemble. How any company can have the gonads to ask retail prices over $100 for one amazes me!
Last edited by 1hole; 10-05-2010 at 07:23 PM.
I got the cheap smart loaders same as the midway tumblers I got three of them the more brass I got I just fire up another one. I think they sell for around 30 bucks so it it quits Iam not out alot. I run them a fair amount and dont have much trouble with them. Now if I had the coin I would get a dillion I think but thats another story.
Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon
I am leaning towards this tumbler, with an 18lb capacity it will hold a lot of brass and its a BIG tumbler. I have looked at one at the local Harbor Freight and looks well built and it's heavy. It's frequently on sale for $149.00 and many of the shooting magazines have a 20% off coupon for Harbor Freight. You can also buy parts for it from Harbor Freight's web site. My second FA tumbler from Midway just died. I am a little aggravated that they don't carry replacement motors for them. I found a replacement motor at a local Graingers, but they wanted about $50 for it.
G
more people are using the dillon compared to other brands. I will check them out
If you can see those nick's, you've better eye's then most people.They might have occured during firing, I've had'em for a number of year's after trying to clean them up in my Lyman tumbler.I gave up with that .
That's not flash you see there, that's sunlight.
If I were doing precision shooting I'd go with this media. The interior is spotless so the internal volume is the same as a new case.
If you can see those nick's, you've better eye's then most people.They might have occured during firing, I've had'em for a number of year's after trying to clean them up in my Lyman tumbler.I gave up with that .
That's not flash you see there, that's sunlight.
If I were doing precision shooting I'd go with this media. The interior is spotless so the internal volume is the same as a new case.
If anybody would like I can send them the original full size pic's.
I thought you guys could use a laugh.....
This is how I clean my brass :
I actujally have two more to link to the top tumbler and all three will run at the same time. Yes, it really does work.
only accurate rifles are interesting
Last edited by NWFLYJ; 10-06-2010 at 02:42 PM.
Vulcan 20MM = Accuracy by volume.
i agree..that brass is CLEAN.....
but till i see the brass up close or after it has been run thru a sizing die, i'm holding back on an a-ok
mike in co
only accurate rifles are interesting
Thanks to all. I will be buying a Lyman tumbler 2500 it will take care of my needs.
Hi all,
Sorry to say so but I have a 2 years old Dillon CV-500 and the motor quit on me and Dillon want 105$ for a new motor (the price of a new thumbler)
With the amount of use this thumbler has (very, very, very little use) I felt bretrayded by Dillon part scrounging policy.
So now,no more Dillon product for me, they are better alternative available.
Regards,
Ducktape
Last edited by Trey45; 10-14-2010 at 08:21 PM.
lol one post and he tapes birds for a living or sells bird tape or something...
sorry to hear your tumbled died
but the price of a small dillon is $140 not $105......
the new motors are ball bearing..so yes they cost more......
my guess is you ran the motor till you felt like turning it off...
most brass is clean in one hour..two at the max.........
buy the new motor, add a 1 hr timer...
anything close to the dillon will cost as much....
mike in co
ps please inform us of the BETTER ALTERNATIVE.....
only accurate rifles are interesting
Motors are the weak link in tumblers but they are all replacable. Check an electrical supply house for replacement motors for bath and kitchen hood exhaust fans, that's what's in tumblers. And ball bearing motors are available too.
How long a motor lasts is luck, not brand. Tthe makers buy motors in large lots and assemble the things in house, they have no way of knowing if any one is better or worse than average. The way most "fail" is the oil drys and seizes the motor shaft, a bit of fresh oil can fix that. Occasionally put a few drops of oil (a non-gumming type, such as Automatic Transmission Fluid from Walmart) on the two cheap bronze bearings most of them have and the motors will last much longer.
Vib. tumblers are noisy due to the bowl bounching and rattling on the motor base. They can only rattle if they are too loose. Simply tighten the bowl's retaining nut and things will quieten down, a bunch.
Second most common tumbler failure seems to be the power connections or switch. Neither problem is difficult to find and fix.
Dillon recently upgraded my DV-500 to the new, bigger more powerful ballbearing motor. The difference is huge. When it's turned on it doesn't "spool up," it starts at full power instantly. The motor is much larger than the original little fan motor. They re-use your base and bowl so it's stilll the same size, just way more powerful. Fortunately, it is not noisier.
Both of my vibratory polishers now run on timers as does my lead furnace, just in case I forget to turn it off. I don't think I've ever left it on but I found Intermatic timers at a good price and bought several. The Thumbler tumblers can run for days on end without any problem so I let them run without timers.
David
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
+ 2 on the occasional oil , my old 1292 ( or what ever number it was ) lasted heap long time by oiling at least once a year (two drops top , two drops bottom ) heap long time means that i bought it early mid 90's and for less than 50 bucks it was well worth the investment , the newer FA one isnt quite the tumbler the old midway one was ,worse the lyman 2500 is going to be a lil more fun to get to to oil , heat is also another killer of these things so if u can help keep it running cooler it should last longer ( think airflow and a clear space around the base and never set by a heater/heat source etc )
dillon has dropped their "forever warranty " on the tumbler and i cant say i blame them , i read of this months ago
the replacement motors seem to cost about as much as a new tumbler , trust me i've been this route , and if one has a older tumbler it's even harder as the newer shafts are smaller and that means the fan and counterbalance usually wont fit , but seriously ...how long should a tumbler motor last ? even with ball bearings ? i mean we add the counterbalance to throw it off balance ( that's what makes it vibrate ) if we did that to our car engines they'd be toast in less than a week , even the alternator with ball bearings if we get the belt too tight it will pull on one side and yup too quick it's toast , [shrugz] for a larger capacity get a cement mixer for a large capacity on the fairly economical get the lyman , the replacement motor is way cheaper than the dillon and there's no guarantee either will last longer , one can hope but u have to realize that hoping is all ur doing ..........
You know, it always rubs me the wrong way when the number of someones posts is used to impeach their comments.
I have less than 400 posts but have been reloading and casting boolits for over 20 years.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |