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Thread: No lathe required 22 LR de-rimmer

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold
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    I used a Lee .224 sizing die. I chamfered the inlet of the die slightly and when I made the punch, I made it with rounded corners. This keeps the punch from cutting the rim off. It works well with un-annealed cases and rarely needs lube. It takes about the same amount of force as sizing and seating a cas check on a cast bullet.

  2. #22
    Boolit Mold 375 RUM's Avatar
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    yes water, should I try something else?

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 375 RUM View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Dannix
    Quote Originally Posted by 375 RUM View Post
    tryed boiling
    As in H2O?
    yes water, should I try something else?
    Attempting to anneal via boiling water is simply an futile endeavor. Try putting them in your lead pot. Or try putting them in a capped steel pipe and add to your next campfire or something. A forum search on annealing may turn up a lot of helpful into as well.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Annealing brass requires a temperature well above the boiling point of water. Water boils at 212°, and brass and anneals at around 700°. Boiling the Brass in lemi shine is done to clean and polish the brass. In my case I do not anneal the brass prior to de-rimming. When I first started I popped off the heads of quite a few cases. To resolve that issue I tapered my die quite a bit more. I also polished the inside to a mirror finish. I use the swage lube discussed here in the swage forum. Anhydrous lanolin and mineral oil. It works really well. It does not prevent case heads from popping off, that issue was resolved by polishing, and shaping the mouth of the die. Your punch shape will also affect heads popping off. The better you polish your punch the easier the cases will come off.
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  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Anyone use these with the ch swage dies?
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  6. #26
    Boolit Master greywuuf's Avatar
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    "Tag"

  7. #27
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    DukeInFlorida's Avatar
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    when you guys are talking about Lee .224 sizing die, are you talking about this??
    http://leeprecision.com/xcart/BULLET-SIZER-.224.html

    http://leeprecision.com/xcart/.224-B...SIZ-KIT-PARTS/



    Just have to make a custom punch that fits inside the case, and push it through that?


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  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    This is a great post! Which would work better the drill bushing or the push through sizer?

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
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    Seems like a couple of these could easily be made into core seating and point forming dies???

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/529...-7-8-14-thread

  10. #30
    Boolit Man OneShotNeeded's Avatar
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    I made a de-rim die on my lathe. Works great. I am trying to figure out how to make a core seat and a point form die... can anyone give me some ideas. I've never seen either so I have no real idea how they work. I do like the idea of the die blank above being used.
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  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy para45lda's Avatar
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    Don't think I'm a tard but are you pushing it into the die rim end first?? So it kind of stretches the rim off?

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  12. #32
    Boolit Master Rangefinder's Avatar
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    Para>> Yes, it runs through the die up-side-down over a push-rod. You have the right idea. (there is no such thing as a stupid question, just FYI )

    Oneshot>> The problem with the die blank listed is that the .17 pilot hole means your ogive will be limited and your meplat very large. I had the same idea and realized there just isn't enough size reduction from .225 to .17 to get a long, pointy bullet. I ended up turning my blank into a custom sizing die (still very useful, just not for the original purpose). You'd be better off going with a grade-8 bolt in 7/8x14 and boring your own pilot hole and then reaming. The pilot should be about 1/16 to 3/32 max which is .06 to .09. a .17 caliber pilot is all the way up near 3/16"--twice or more what you really ought to have.
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  13. #33
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    The lee sizing die may work to derim the base but you still need to reduce the jacket to a size smaller then the core seat die to form the bullet properly. Since the lee die is advertised as .224 your not going to get any jackets smaller then that with out a reducing die. Always start small and swage up in size for best results.

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  14. #34
    Boolit Master badbob454's Avatar
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    wow those make me want to think about swaging i only cast and reload now ...hmmmm
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check