hornady lock and load nightmare.

[MattT]

If the crimp die is Lee you can put a hollow spacer between the adjustment screw and the crimp ring. Easier than grinding and rechamfering the carbide ring.

[James Wisner]

I use two Hornady progressives.

The old one is a pro 7 which was refitted at the factory to a Projector. I leave it set up for small primers. Best guess is about 10,000 rounds thru it now.

The new one I bought in 1992, and leave set up for large primers, have about 7,000 rounds thru it.

The two things which happen quite often on these older ones is the pin in the bottom of the toggle will work out to one side.
The indexing pawls will work the set secrews loose every 400 rounds or so.

Have been considering the newer LNL because of the case feed, but have not been able to see one as the closest stocking dealer is 3 hours away.

So I guess will just keep plodding along with the older press.

Jim Wisner
Custom Metalsmith

[Lloyd Smale]

you dont need extra powder measures just some powder bars its a few second job to change out a powder bar that is allready preset.

I had the same trouble with my 550 when I had it. I had a Lee die that wouldn't quiet reach, so I changed that die over to a Hornady which seemed a bit longer.

As to the Dillon v Hornady, the disadvantage with the Dillon is that if you load multiple calibres, you need to fiddly foot around resetting the measure, etc. If you are cashed up, you buy lots of extra set up heads and measures. The Hornady is changed over by pressing a button and repplacing the insert and maybe the through die. I am beginning to lean towards a Hornady. I had both in the past. The Hornady was a Pro Jector and it was a nightmare, the newere onesseem to be a better deal all round. To do what I want to do with a Dillon looks like I'd have to mortage the house.

[kenjuudo]

I use two Hornady progressives.

The old one is a pro 7 which was refitted at the factory to a Projector. I leave it set up for small primers. Best guess is about 10,000 rounds thru it now.

The new one I bought in 1992, and leave set up for large primers, have about 7,000 rounds thru it.

The two things which happen quite often on these older ones is the pin in the bottom of the toggle will work out to one side.
The indexing pawls will work the set secrews loose every 400 rounds or so.

Have been considering the newer LNL because of the case feed, but have not been able to see one as the closest stocking dealer is 3 hours away.

So I guess will just keep plodding along with the older press.

Jim Wisner
Custom Metalsmith

Jim,
If ya think it would help I can email ya all the pics ya need.

jim

[LAH]

A friend and gunshop owner has a LNL. He loves it but the case feed needed work to suit him. He also has a Dillon but likes the LNL better.

I have Dillon's and find the powder measure of no issue. It adjusts very easy. Changing from the large to small powder bar is simple and fast. The expander/powder funnel die has a learning curve but even for the simple man such as I it's very short.

Another thing, changing from large to small primer feed seems to be a sore spot with people but for the life of me I can't understand why. It's a lot easier than brushing ones teeth properly.........Creeker

[Shawrco]

I got my LNL AP used via ebay. One thing I wish was different is the primer system... mine is the older style. I can convert it, but I'm trying to work with what I've got. For a while, I did the priming by hand as I do with my rifle rounds (I only load pistol on the LNL), putting a new primer in a dirty primer pocket just seems foreign to me!.
I have not been able to get the ejector wire figured out, so I just removed it. Now that I have the crimp die in the last station, I see where the bottom of the die needs to be relieved some, but if someone could explain to me how that wire is positioned, I'd sure appreciate it, i.e. does the end of the wire sit to the side of the shell plate bolt, on top of it, etc.???
The only operational issues I've had have been that it doesn't index fully to each station, I have to move it by hand. My guess is that its got debris under the shell plate. I also have trouble with the slide picking up primers once in a while and with the slide getting stuck , not bringing the primer fully into position. KYCaster shared a few tips I will try in tweaking mine.
All considered, I'm still pleased with my LNL AP.

[rmb721]

canuck: You can cut the seating die off to clear the ejection spring (I did) or use press with ejection spring flipped up out of the way. Then, you just have to pick loaded rounds off yourself. I did that before cutting dies. I have been converting to Hornady dies for the calibers that I load on the LNL/ AP. I like the Hornady seater die better anyway. I even switched to Hornady on some calibers that I load on my Rockchucker because of the seating die.

[Catfish]

I have nothing against Hornady, in fact I think they make some of the best reloading equipment on the market, BUT, when it comes to progressive reloading presses there is nothing close to Dillon.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Shawrco,

"I got my LNL AP used via ebay. One thing I wish was different is the primer system... mine is the older style. I can convert it, but I'm trying to work with what I've got."

Mine was an older style and Hornady upgraded mine for free. You would be money and marbles ahead to upgrade. The new one works without flaw. The older one "ain't quite right."


"I have not been able to get the ejector wire figured out, so I just removed it. Now that I have the crimp die in the last station, I see where the bottom of the die needs to be relieved some, but if someone could explain to me how that wire is positioned, I'd sure appreciate it, i.e. does the end of the wire sit to the side of the shell plate bolt, on top of it, etc.???"

Call Hornady and talk to them about this one. It's not easily explained via typing.

"The only operational issues I've had have been that it doesn't index fully to each station, I have to move it by hand. My guess is that its got debris under the shell plate."

You feed paws that rotate the shellplate are out of adjustment, thereby causing you timing issues. Again, call Hornady and have them explain how to adjust this. They have great tech support. They list an 800 number on their website. WWW.hornady.com.


"I also have trouble with the slide picking up primers once in a while and with the slide getting stuck , not bringing the primer fully into position. KYCaster shared a few tips I will try in tweaking mine."

This is a problem with the older style primer system. If you get the new style and set it up correctly, the problem will go away.

Regards,

Dave

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

I have nothing against Hornady, in fact I think they make some of the best reloading equipment on the market, BUT, when it comes to progressive reloading presses there is nothing close to Dillon.

I've noticed that a lot of people that say this haven't reloaded on the current version of the Hornady Lock N Load. I have. I owned a Dillon 550 and a good buddy owns a Dillon 650, so I regularly load on both.

Having loaded on both, I much prefer the Hornady for a number of reasons. As far as one being better than the other, they both load good rounds and are dependable presses that give no trouble if setup and adjusted correctly. Either will give trouble if not setup and adjusted correctly. Warranty nets out about the same. Dillon has no advantage. It's merely a matter of what one is familiar with or what features one wants on their press.

Better? No. Different, with different features, very much so. But assuming superiority in today's world is resting on one's laurels.

Regards,

Dave

[Hunter]

First that ejector rod is adjustable (look at the set screw under the shell plate) you can adjust the ejector in and out to clear the dies as well as change the bend some if needed. No problem.
I believe it would be a mistake to trade the Hornady in on a Dillon. I know a few folks who have used both and all strongly prefer the Hornady. It really is a better press and you don't have to buy the tool heads and extra powder measures.
I have 3 Hornady presses (1 single stage, a Pro 7 and a new L-N-L and all are excellent presses).
A wise man once said don't change horses mid stream http://www.cs.odu.edu/~rtompkin/hornady/blue.php

[omgb]

I have a Hornady LNL, a Pro7 and a Dillon 650. Of the three, the LNL is the best over-all. The Dillon is great but the LNL is faster and easier to change over.

[dromia]

Dillon v's Hornady raises its head again.

Well as I've said before I've had a Hornady LnL AP running for nigh two years now its never missed beat and churns out my bulk rifle ammo.

Tried to buy a Dillon years ago but didn't like their attitude so can't compare presses, but no doubt Dillon has its strengths to.

However the Hornady works well, does what its advertised to do with out hassle or grief and is cheaper than the Dillon 650, so unless you must have blue for decorative reasons then it is a no brainer.

If you have problems with any piece of kit then get back onto the suppliers/maker and get them to sort it out.

[Shawrco]

Michel: I had the same problem with 45ACP. I cut the bottom off the RCBS taper crimp die and it works fine.

[Enjoy.
Jerry

Are we talking actually reducing the length of the die body or reducing the OD? Do the Hornady dies have a smaller OD so that they clear the ejector spring? Thanks.

[rmb721]

Are we talking actually reducing the length of the die body or reducing the OD? Do the Hornady dies have a smaller OD so that they clear the ejector spring? Thanks.

Yes, reducing the length of the body, just enough to clear the ejector spring.

[KYCaster]

Joe: I reduced the length about .250 and cut a chamfer on the ID. Apparently the Hornady dies have the crimp feature closer to the bottom of the die so it doesn't protrude below the tool head.

Jerry

[Shawrco]

Joe: I reduced the length about .250 and cut a chamfer on the ID. Apparently the Hornady dies have the crimp feature closer to the bottom of the die so it doesn't protrude below the tool head.

Jerry

Thanks for the info guys. I guess I should have mentioned that I'm using the Lee carbide factory crimp die. Does that affect how much is cut off. As I re-read the description in the Midway catalog I'm reminded that it has an adjusting screw that sets the amount of crimp. I'll try to back the die body out until it clears the spring and then adjust the taper crimp (45acp).

[Hairtrigger]

Say you trade the Hornady in on a dillon. The first time you break one of those little springs or plastic parts then you trade it in on a ???????
Ever wonder why dillon sells a small parts replacement kit?

[omgb]

Really guys, unless one has used both presses a considerable amount, say a couple of thousand rounds, one really is only speculating or repeating hearsay. I have used both presses that much. Plus, I've got a couple of thousand through a Lee Pro 1000 as well. Of the three, the Hornady is the more egonomic press and it has a faster rate of production provided all are equiped equally. Repair or replace, Dillon might have it better there but I never had to use their service. Hornady was very fast. The only failure I had was a direct result of my forcing the press on a jammed primer. The Lee was a mess from the start. It got out of time, it failed to feed primers, it didn't always feed cases and it generally required a whole mess of tinkering to keep going. The only other press i ever used that was that cantankerous was a Green Machine, geez Louise what a nightmare that was.

Anyone who has honestly looked at the Hornady powder system has to know that it works better than Dillons. The Blue machine is a rehash of the old Star, a great design for ball, flake and short-grained powders but a PITA for most of the IMRs. Changing charges is a great deal of trouble too. Nothing could be simpler with the Hornady. Hornady's shell plate and spring keeper is better than Dillons pins too.

To each his own but I won't be buying a Dillon again any time soon. I think my LNL is great. Oh, and the Lee, well, ahem, lets just say of all of the great Lee products, this is not one of them.

[Shawrco]

Thanks for the info guys. I guess I should have mentioned that I'm using the Lee carbide factory crimp die. Does that affect how much is cut off. As I re-read the description in the Midway catalog I'm reminded that it has an adjusting screw that sets the amount of crimp. I'll try to back the die body out until it clears the spring and then adjust the taper crimp (45acp).

Well, that didn't work, so I guess I'll cut some off the bottom. It has the carbide sizer ring in there, so I hope that doesn't mess things up...