RotoMetals2Lee PrecisionReloading EverythingSnyders Jerky
WidenersLoad DataRepackboxTitan Reloading
Inline Fabrication MidSouth Shooters Supply
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Other types of lube?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    dk17hmr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    2,212

    Other types of lube?

    I use the Lees Tumble Lube the alox stuff. It works for my pistol bullets but I think I want something else for my rifle bullets, the alox collects dirt and stuff, I dont want to go spending alot of money on a luber/sizer set up (just yet anyways) but is there something that just lubes in the the bands instead of the whole bullet that is as cheap as the Lee sizers?

    DK
    Last edited by dk17hmr; 06-22-2006 at 09:08 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master shooter575's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Ann Arbor Mi.
    Posts
    592
    Pan lubing is the cheepest next thing.Stand em up in a pan,Heat the pan and boolets up to pretty warm.Than pour your melted lube around them.After they cool use a piece of brass tubing to cut them out of the cake "cookie cutter like"
    I use this method if I dont have a die for that boolet dia.
    If shooting,fixing,making and thunking were easy.Everyone would be doing it.

    There are four types of homicide: felonious, accidental,
    justifiable, and praiseworthy.
    - Ambrose Bierce


    Jim

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy steveb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    415
    Ditto to what Shooter 575 stated.




    Heres a link to a cool site that will be helpful and what got me started pan lubing. http://goatlipstips.cas-town.com/panlubing.html
    [SIGPIC]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/stevensavage/avatars/reloadnPalacescriptresized.jpg[/SIGPIC]

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub Pawpaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Central Louisiana
    Posts
    71
    I do a kind of back-asswards lubing on BP bullets. I melt a small tub of Junior Lube, then grab the bullet by the nose and dip the base into the hot lube up to the crimp groove. I set the bullet on wax paper and grab another one. When I get a batch lubed, I size them through the Lee sizer to wipe off excess lube.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    klausg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    South-Central Alaska
    Posts
    305
    DK- I pan-lube also, slightly differently though. I give the bullets a shot of WD-40, then run them through a Lee sizer, then put them into molten lube & let them get up to temp (about 5-10 min). Shut off the heat, let the lube set and punch them out of the 'cake'. Depending on the relative hardness of the lube you're using you may have to hit the cake with a heat gun/ hair dryer a bit with the really hard lubes. I just push the bullets out, but I'm sure the 'cookie cutter method works also. The hardest part of the whole operation is getting the lube level right from bullet to bullet. Hope this helps.

    -Klaus

  6. #6
    Banned Bucks Owin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Northeast CA.
    Posts
    1,254

    The "picture worth a hundred words"



    If your bullet is big enough to dip, you won't have any LLA exposed to collect dirt...

    FWIW,

    Dennis

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    middle of the map
    Posts
    41
    I'm a dipper with Lee Liquid Alox, too. Grab the nose, dip them to the crimping groove, then set them on waxed paper. It took me awhile to believe that a THIN coat of LLA will do the job- guess I should have trusted the directions!

  8. #8
    HONCHO EMERITUS


    Dutch4122's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    ??????
    Posts
    1,754

    Thumbs up Dip lubing with heated Johnson's Paste Wax

    I've been doing a little dip lubing of my own lately. Instead of Lee liquid alox I've been using Johnson's Paste Wax. I scoop the JPW into a small glass bowl. Then I set the bowl on a hot plate with the heat set on low setting of "2" until the JPW melts in the bowl. Then I turn the heat down to the lowest setting of "1" which will keep the JPW hot enough to stay liquid.

    On gas checked boolits the check is already installed and sizing has been done only if necessary to chamber the round. I grab the boolits by the nose and dip them base down up to the crimp groove or past the front drive band into the heated JPW for a count of 4-5 seconds. Then I place them on a sheet of wax paper to dry. After doing a lot of 50 or so I wipe the excess JPW on the bases off on a paper towel. For boolits with a slim nose profile that is hard to hang onto with the fingers I use a pair of curved needlenose pliers to gently hold the boolit at the crimp groove while dunking it into the JPW.

    So far the 8mm Mauser (a long barreled 98/29 Persian) with a 175 grn GC from last fall's 8mm custom group buy shooting 17 grns of 2400 (avg 1625 fps) seems to like the dip lubed JPW. I'm getting zero leading and the only cleaning performed so far in my limited testing is to wipe out the bore with a dry patch which yields a very shiney, almost wet looking bore.

    The other rifle i've been using JPW with is the H&R Ultra-Rifle in .450 Marlin with a 22" barrel. I'm working up with RL-7 and the Lee C457-500-FN using data obtained from Greg Mushial's (sp?) website. Velocity range I'm working up through is from 1,100 to 1,500 fps. So far with the loads in the lower half of this range I'm getting the same results as with the 8mm. Just a dry patch to wipe out the powder residue and unburnt kernals of RL-7 and the bore is spotless and wet as if it just had a oily rag run through it. Both boolit designs were cast of air cooled wheel weight. I'm also getting a lube star on both of these rifles with JPW.

    No serious accuracy testing yet; and once I get a handle on what velocities are obtainable with JPW without leading I'll then start looking harder at it's accuracy potential. So far just plinking has been done with the JPW'd boolits while shooting off these loads at informal targets to get an idea of this stuff's ability to keep the lead out of the bore and on the boolit.

    Looks like it works quite well with the low velocity loads. Should know quite a bit more as I try this stuff with different loads and different rifles.

    Hope this helps,
    Last edited by Dutch4122; 06-23-2006 at 09:58 PM.
    -Matt
    Group Buys Honcho'd: C326-175-FN, 434-210-RF, C434-210-RF, 30-165-SIL-MOD, 358156-PB, 413-170-Keith, C348-225-FN, 8mm SIL, 45-230-CM, 45-270-Ohaus/SWC, Edd's 28-170-FN

  9. #9
    Banned








    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    munising Michigan
    Posts
    17,725
    best bet is to buy a lube sizer you can pick up lymans as cheap as 30 bucks on ebay.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check