New To Casting...Lube Sizer and Equipment Questions

[arjuna70]

After reading on this forum for sometime and watching Youtube videos I've decided to go ahead and start. The main reason is a hookup I have with a basically free supply of wheel weights. So I've started to collect all the equipment and even got a free Lee 10lb pot with assorted bullet molds from a guy who never got into it.

The big purchase seems to be the bullet lube sizer and the one of choice seems to be the Star. Here is what I was going to order:

Magna Star Lube-Sizer = $250 + Heater $105 + Shovel Handle $26 = $381
http://www.magmaengineering.com/prod...tar-lube-sizer

I think I want to go with the Star but I'm not sure what to order from them. Seems like the Heater is a must but some people say the shovel handle and others like the roller handle. Any suggestions?

I'm a Bullseye shooter and I will load primarily 45ACP and 38spl to start. I'm currently buying ZERO bullets and they are all 0.452 diameter for 45ACP 230gr RN, 200 SWC, and 185 SWC rounds. The 38spl is 0.357 diameter for 158gr SWC, 148gr SWC and 148gr WCHB. So what should I order from Lathesmith. I'd like get everything together for these two calibers and would like to make the swaps easy as possible, I don't mind ordering duplicate parts for simplicity.

I was also going to order the White Label Lube. How much should I get to start?
http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/liquid-x.html

So far I've bought:

Harbor Freight Pot = $27 shipped
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44705

Bayou High Pressure Burner = $39 (Benny's)
http://bayouclassicdepot.com/sq14_propane_burner.htm

Lee Ladle = $9 shipped (eBay)

Anything else people would recommend? Thanks for help and all the help so far from all the members. This is a great community.

[454PB]

First off......welcome to the forum!

The Star sizer is great. I made my own handle and heater, so I can't comment on that. However, unless you plan to use a stiff boolit lube or use the sizer in a cold environment, I don't think you need the heater. And, an old hair blow dryer works well for occasional use.

Lar's lube is great stuff, and can be bought for nearly what the ingredients cost. I'm presently using the BAC, which doesn't require a heater (at normal room temperature). Since shipping affects cost, I'd recommend you buy 18 tubes. That's all that will fit in a flat rate envelope.

If you have determined that the previous commercial cast boolits are the right diameter, order the .452" and .357". Personally, I'd go for .358", that's what all my guns like.

Star makes a die removal tool that is very handy to use, but is not required.

The Lee lead dipper is pretty much a joke. If you want to ladle pour, get the RCBS or Lyman ladle. For simply stirring/fluxing, any large metal spoon with an insulated handle will work.

[arjuna70]

Thanks for the quick response. Does Lar's Lube need a heater? What is BAC?

In terms of determining size, the Zero Bullets are .452 and they seem to shoot well in all my 1911's. Is that the standard size? I didn't realize that 100th makes so much of a difference. For the 38spl, I primarily shoot a Clark 1911 38spl and a S&W Model 14 revolver and the Zero bullets seem to shoot well in them. Should I stick with the .357 or go with the .358. Is there anything else I need to order aside from the die from Lathesmith or Magma to get started?

I don't see the Star die removal tool on the website. Do I just ask Magma for one when I order the machine?

[Bob J]

Thanks for the quick response. Does Lar's Lube need a heater? What is BAC?

In terms of determining size, the Zero Bullets are .452 and they seem to shoot well in all my 1911's. Is that the standard size? I didn't realize that 100th makes so much of a difference. For the 38spl, I primarily shoot a Clark 1911 38spl and a S&W Model 14 revolver and the Zero bullets seem to shoot well in them. Should I stick with the .357 or go with the .358. Is there anything else I need to order aside from the die from Lathesmith or Magma to get started?

I don't see the Star die removal tool on the website. Do I just ask Magma for one when I order the machine?

A die removal tool came with my Star... As for sizing I would recommend that you slug your barrel to best evaluate the size necessary too properly fit the bullet... Lots of detail on the site on how to do that if you aren't sure....

I'm currently using Lars Carnuba Red and I have the heater.... The heater was worth it for me since I can just set it and forget it....

[buck1]

I have a Saeco and a RCBS sizer. The star gets LOTS of great press here. But If I had it to do over the lee( I am not A big lee fan) Works very well, cheep too,...Bock

[chrisx1]

+1 on the slug your bore - you'd be surprised how many different bore diameters there are out there.

Midway sells a universal heater that's worked well for me - Lyman Heater I put a dimmer switch between it and the outlet and it works like a charm at half the price.

Also, I think Lathesmith was making a shovel handle of sorts - not sure on the price though, but it will be a good one if Chris makes it.

Die removal tool will come with your new machine, and if it doesn't Lathesmith could make one for you. It's not 100% necessary, but it is nice. If you use a heat gun or hair dryer on the area around the die, you can usually push the die back up and out with a WOODEN dowell easily - make sure you don't damage the bore of the machine, it's what holds the lube in around the die.

[arjuna70]

I guess the question I have about slugging the bore is that I have more than one 1911 that I shoot. If I slug the bores and they vary, does that mean that I should have different dies for each one depending on the diameter. I didn't realize that one size does not fit all.

Which lube would people recommend for bullseye pistol competition shooting. I don't typically chrono my loads but I don't think may go over 1200fps at the most for the centerfire rounds. Would Lars Carnuba Red or BAC or Liquid Alox be best for my needs.

[Edubya]

BAC is one of Lar's lube. Carnuba Red is also.
Going from .452 to .451 is one thousandth not one hundredth. NRA handbook recommends that your bullet not to be more than .002 larger than groove size, as it will create an overpressure. Under size of .001 will create leading of the barrel.
Your list appears very complete. I wish that I had started off as complete as you have. You might spend some time reading the "Classics" and "Stickies" on this forum to get some more real good ideas.
EW

[arjuna70]

BAC is one of Lar's lube. Carnuba Red is also.
Going from .452 to .451 is one thousandth not one hundredth. NRA handbook recommends that your bullet not to be more than .002 larger than groove size, as it will create an overpressure. Under size of .001 will create leading of the barrel

So when people purchase cast lead bullets, this is a factor with them also. Not just the ones that you cast yourself. I guess I'll have to slug all the 1911's and see how much they vary. I didn't anticipate having to have different lots of bullets for each gun.

Any recommendations for lube for pistol shooting?

[chrisx1]

Yep, slug every bore - odds are it will all work out where you can use one size, but spread of 3 thou, and you will have to decide if you want to cast for that odd bore separately or shoot jackets thru that one.

Yes it is an issue with commercial cast boolits as well, and IMO, that's the biggest reason cast boolits get a bad rap with people who haven't done their research. If you just grab a cast boolit off the shelf, it's luck of the draw if it will fit your bore or not.

Don't freak out yet, just know that it's a factor that you will have to keep in mind.

[454PB]

The BAC will work fine for your needs. BAC means "beeswax/Alox/carnuba", and is the old standby NRA formula 50/50 beeswax and Alox that is then blended with some carnuba wax.

Lars will mix and match an order if you want to try a couple of different types.

I'd venture to say that in the worst case scenario, you might need both a .451" and .452 sizer, but slugging all your barrels will tell the story.

I presently own 8 different .45 caliber handguns, from .45 ACP to .454 Casull, and they ALL use .452" boolits. On rare occasion, you can run into a situation where a .452" boolit will cause tight chamber fit, and then you'd need the .451"

Just as a wild guess, depending on boolit design, you can lube around 500 .45 caliber boolits with a stick of lube. You're going to waste some, and the first half stick stays in the sizer.

[arjuna70]

The BAC will work fine for your needs. BAC means "beeswax/Alox/carnuba", and is the old standby NRA formula 50/50 beeswax and Alox that is then blended with some carnuba wax.

Lars will mix and match an order if you want to try a couple of different types.

I'd venture to say that in the worst case scenario, you might need both a .451" and .452 sizer, but slugging all your barrels will tell the story.

I presently own 8 different .45 caliber handguns, from .45 ACP to .454 Casull, and they ALL use .452" boolits. On rare occasion, you can run into a situation where a .452" boolit will cause tight chamber fit, and then you'd need the .451"

Just as a wild guess, depending on boolit design, you can lube around 500 .45 caliber boolits with a stick of lube. You're going to waste some, and the first half stick stays in the sizer.

Well I feel a little better now. I guess I'll go with the .452 and then see how that works out. Also thanks for the advice for the lube, I'll start off with the BAC and maybe another one or two to try out.

So I guess I'll order the Star + Heater at this time and the rest I can get from Lathesmith. Is this correct?

[Muddy Creek Sam]

Get you dies, punches and handle from lathesmith on the Vender Forum. If you have a RockDock from Pat Marlin, All you need is and iron for a heater.

Sam

[jsizemore]

If you are already going to buy the heater, tell Glenn Larsen what you are doing. He'll send you a sampler of lube to try. I started out with BAC and moved to Carnuba Red because of the crud buildup and smoke during rapid fire. This could be a consideration shooting bullseye. Check your store bought bullets to see if they used hard or soft lube. When you mentioned the size of the bullets, was it the manufacturers or your measurment? Good Luck

[Echo]

I also shoot a Clark .38 (Kit gun). My recommendation, for all autoloaders, is to load the biggest (diameter) boolit that will reliably chamber in your guns. I use .358 WC's (H&G 50, Lyman 358495) in my Clark, and .452 SWC's (452460) in my Willing Competitor 1911. So. My recommendation is to start with .358 and .452 - if the results are satisfactory, you are home free. Buy your dies from lathesmith.
Regarding lube and heaters. I use NRA 50/50 on my pistol boolits, whether I run them through my Star or through an RCBS/LAM. Plenty good enough for up to 1300 fps. BAC is the same, but better. I don't use a heater on my Star, but use a drop light on one RCBS/LAM that is loaded with hard lube. So. My recommendation re a heater is use NRA/BAC and forego the heater.
By the way, some Clarks were built on .38 Super guns, rechambering to .38 Special, but with the standard .355-.356 .38 Super barrel. Mine was built with a .38AMU barrel, and so has .357 groove diameter. You should have no trouble working up a load for your Clark, but it should be fairly comprehensive, starting low and adjusting up for best accuracy with reliable functioning. My Clark is a finicky B***h - make a little mistake that, with a 1911 would throw a 9, and the Clark throws a 7! Shoots 2 1/2" groups @ 50 yards, though.

YMMV.

[arjuna70]

By the way, some Clarks were built on .38 Super guns, rechambering to .38 Special, but with the standard .355-.356 .38 Super barrel. Mine was built with a .38AMU barrel, and so has .357 groove diameter. You should have no trouble working up a load for your Clark, but it should be fairly comprehensive, starting low and adjusting up for best accuracy with reliable functioning. My Clark is a finicky B***h - make a little mistake that, with a 1911 would throw a 9, and the Clark throws a 7! Shoots 2 1/2" groups @ 50 yards, though

I think I'm going to have to slug the Clark barrel. My Clark is a 38super which was rechambered for the 38spl round. Either way, I mostly shoot my 45acp Wad gun for Centerfire and 45 portions of the 2700. I'm trying to get Distinguished and decided the only way is to shoot iron sights and the 45acp.

I have been shooting the S&W Model 41 a lot also trying to get Distinguished in Revolver but also slugging the barrel seems to be the best way to go. The .357 diameter are the stated diameter of the Cast Bullets I purchase from Zero Bullets, but the majority of folks around here prefer the .358 diameter. I guess going to the barrel is really the only way.