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Thread: my cap plate

  1. #21
    Boolit Master lead chucker's Avatar
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    I really wanted to like that crocket 32 and thought maybe i got some one else's problem . You never know when you buy something used. I think i got it figured out now and it works really good. Shoots better than i can aim thats for sure. I will keep this one. So much fun to shoot. I have had a problem with this rifle rusting after cleaning and using boor butter, only with this rifle all my other rifles are good no problems at all so i used some what they call track22 which is like aspho. I treated it with that really carefully not to get any on the out side barrel. It will remove any bluing instantly like it all ready happened. Got a little on the muzzle and it removed the bluing in it. It kills the rust. i swabbed the barrel after 10 hours and they came out clean then i oiled the barrel and called it good.
    Dont pee down my back and tell me its raining.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lead chucker You should be getting way more cups per can than 26. Can prep is hard enough so getting the most is worth doing. I'm using double layer pop cans and can get 48 to 51 cups out of a can. I cut the to and bottom off . Flatten the can and fold in half. Press the crease and trim off the other edge to even them up. Start punching the edge just trimmed ,I usually get 16 punches . Trim off that and start again. Done with no mistakes 48 to 51 cups can be had with double walls. I have made thousands this way. My die is on a reloading press now. I did start out with the die on a drill press. Worked really well and was fast and easy. A rate is 6 to 8 hundred per hour is easily possible this way.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I agree about how many cap you can make out of one can , even using double layer strips.
    I made 800 primers in 4 days.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lags Are you pounding them out with a hammer? If so, 800 is a big bunch
    Using a drill press made it easy. Medium pressure on the handle was all it takes. A smooth steady pressure seems to make a better cup too. Fewer hangups with the aluminum . The Cap Maker could be made to a closer fit of the punch to the die. Mine had a .005 slop leading to a lot of metal tearing. I expanded the dia, of the teeth by placing a hardened ball bearing inside the end of the punch and taping it with a light hammer. Now the gap is about .001 . Almost no tearing now.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    I do punch them with a hammer.
    I have a drill press , but just haven’t tried using it as a press.
    The second punch set up I use makes my primers the correct size and flatter on top so they fit the nipple very well.
    When I said 4 days.
    That was doing it start and stop all day and evening rotating from punch a bunch.
    Then prime a bunch.
    And while they were drying , I punched out another bunch.
    But I already had prepped the can metal by cutting it into wider strips and folded it in half lengthwise into strips about an inch wide.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I do punch them with a hammer.
    I have a drill press , but just haven’t tried using it as a press.
    The second punch set up I use makes my primers the correct size and flatter on top so they fit the nipple very well.
    When I said 4 days.
    That was doing it start and stop all day and evening rotating from punch a bunch.
    Then prime a bunch.
    And while they were drying , I punched out another bunch.
    But I already had prepped the can metal by cutting it into wider strips and folded it in half lengthwise into strips about an inch wide.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

    firefly1957's Avatar
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    I ended up making my own Cap maker it works quite well in the drill press .
    My priming is 8 grains BARIUM Chlorate , 2 grains Charcoal and .3 grains Red Phosphorus* . I have found grinding separately then dry mixing to be best .2 grains is dumped in a cap then a drop of either thinned lacquer of Nitrocellulose or acrylic to bind it when it dries . The mix is powerful and even a light hammer strike sets it off . On the plus side if it is lit it burns rather then explodes .
    This mix did poorly in large pistol primers they tended to hiss rather then pop . Altering the formula to 11 grains Barium Chlorate 2 grains Charcoal and 1 grain R.P. made a powerful pistol primer . These mixes seem to cause no or very little rust in tests and ignite very hard the ignite OLD cartridge "CTG" Pyodex that was clumped together in can quite well in a .45 caliber pistol .

    * got it from ETSY it is expensive but the 25 grams will last forever.
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lags That sounds like a lot of work. Some time ago I posted pictures of my drill press setup. Right now My computer with the pictures is out of whack.
    Firefly Where did you get that formula? Sounds easy. I'm using the fa-42 with very good results. Perfect with Pyrodex too. For my binder, I'm using a pinch of fast pistol powder in acetone. Works very well,no fallout's .

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check