Spray on COPPER Jacket?

[Super Sneaky Steve]

After reading 40 pages of some random PC thread someone was complaining of the pigments in PC potentially causing some damage. I know this problem is largely non-existent but it gave me an idea. Why not use this concept to our advantage?

I don't know if this has been done before but I went on Amazon and looked for a very fine mesh 99%+ copper powder which I purchased here.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ9T2573...p_imgToDp&th=1

I then ordered some Eastwood Super Gloss Clear and plan to mix the two before doing an ES spray.

I have no idea what kind of ratio to start with so any ideas are welcome.

And before you say it, I know, what's the point right? Regular PC bullets work great! Yes I know but I want to try something new. Something that might possibly be even better for some applications. Wouldn't it be great if this allowed 3,000fps out of a rifle with the same accuracy as a jacketed boolit? I know that's asking a lot but we'll never know if we don't try right?

[kevin c]

IIRC, HiTek metallic colors have actual metal flakes that are suspended in the liquid coating and are hardened into the resin as it cures. The metal particles provide the color and some heat reflecting properties, but it’s the resin that adheres to the bullet and that provides the strength that keeps the coating in place. Your copper particles in PC sound similar.

The strength of a jacketed bullet at high rpms and velocities is in the continuous copper sheathing. Plated bullets may be continuous, but the coating is softer, thinner, and, I believe, may only be good for pistol velocities. Metal particles suspended in a coating don’t seem to me to have the strength to have the bullet hold together at something like 90,000 rpm.

But, I’m all for trying it!

[Super Sneaky Steve]

There are three techniques I want to try, maybe alone or in conjunction.

1. Spray the pure copper on the boolits then spray over with clear.

2. Mix the clear with the copper probably starting with 2:1 clear to copper spray and bake.

3. Spray the clear first then swap to spraying pure copper on top. This is a similar technique to "cold casting" where the mold is dusted with metal. Objects made this way really do look good and the metal on top can be polished or aged.

[Super Sneaky Steve]

Here's a guy cold casting a yoda.
https://youtu.be/d1X1pj1Zxj8?si=uZ5HrQ6d8eBkC472

This is what I'm trying to do but the process is reversed.

[Super Sneaky Steve]

First try was a failure, but I think there's lots of factors to play with like the ratio of copper to PC.

I also was using an unmodified Harbor Freight gun, which can barely paint anything.

After some research and $40 worth of ebay parts I should have it working much better for a second attempt.

If I can get the copper to spray I may try putting a layer of PC on first then while they are still hot, try spraying some copper. That's how they add metal flake to motorcycle tanks.