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Thread: Well, here I am, dipping in the toes

  1. #1
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Well, here I am, dipping in the toes

    I'll be looking at everything I can find here for 45 Colt black powder. I got into 45 Colt by accident, (bought a Taurus Judge, and I can't own something I cannot reload, of course), but when I realized that A), I am now casting for 45 Colt and B), there is a Howell conversion cylinder for my Uberti New Model Army, and C) well, why not? So, the Howell will be here next week, and I will step into the wonderful world of black powder cartridge - Da Boy is ALL excited about shooting BP cartridge in the big stainless NMA...this should be very interesting.
    That's all, just wanted to note that I am officially broadening my horizons again.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Start with a load of 2f powder no airspace no compression and a card wad in to .020-.040 thickness range. with the bullet seated to depth. work up from here adding compression and weight as you go. As you add compression fouling will go down velocities will get better and accuracy will improve. Use a lube suited for black powder like SPG. Crimp as needed to hold bullets in place. Being a full case there shouldnt be set back but the bullets could pull under recoil.

    Once you find the load you can experiment with different primers wads and lubes.

    Shooting BP you will want a handy cleaner at the range I have used windex with vinegar to remove fouling. dishsoap and water works well also.

    I also deprime and put the cases to soaking as fired. a jug with soap water works well for this. An old tide bottle with the insert pulled out works good. You want to neutralize the salts and fouling as soon as possible. When home rinse several times in hot tap water then dry and clean.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Whoops - I forgot to separate the brass on the line, and they tumbled with the rest of the brass. I guess they will be easy to spot when I dump it in a few minutes. Live and learn. Thank you for the post, good info, going to fire up the lead pot in a few minutes to try that other boolit. I will also take a "defouler" next time. I hadn't needed one before, so that definitely caught me off guard.

  4. #4
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    Chill Wills's Avatar
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    If you live in AZ you have no issues with a time race to clean the cases, or the rifle for that mater. The south west is dry and under the threshold for problems. Contrast that to much of the country east of the Mississippi and coastal areas that really need to get on the cases right away.

    I have shot 10 day match events in Raton, New Mexico and as always, never do anything to the cases and clean when I get home. No difference.
    Chill Wills

  5. #5
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Well, it seemed there was for me...

    These tumbled in media and polish for about 3 hours. The BP ones one the left, smokeless on the right.



    So, I think next time I will follow advice and take that can with me. And speaking of next time, I think this boolit will do the trick, 200 grainer, Range Lead, (reclaimed berm lead from an LE range, 99% jacketed bullets), about as close to dead soft as I can get, and a nice big lube groove.


  6. #6
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    Yup, your system is not getting it. A good system to clean is wet tumbling with either ceramic or SS pins. For me the ceramic media is the easiest to separate from the brass.

    The brass comes out shining like a dime in a goat's, well.... often better than new.

    BTW - when I say no issues, I mean the brass won't be hurt in the long term.
    Have fun.
    Chill Wills

  7. #7
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Yeah, sorry, I have what I have, can't afford a new machine right now, my bad. I apologize.
    Thank you to everyone for your help, much appreciated.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I soak the shells in a solution of water and DAWN dishwashing detergent. Soak them for maybe 20 to 30 minutes. Rinse with straight water and then lay the shells out to dry. After they are FULLY dry, then they go into the tumbler with walnut shell media for 3 to 4 hours. Forgot to mention that I deprime BEFORE soaking.

    If the shells are not completely dry before tumbling, you will have a mess on your hands.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Add about 2 ounces of mineral spirits to you corn cob media have the polisher running and slowly trickle it in. Let run a few minutes and add the brass. This will rejuvenate the polish and media

    I use the iosso brass polish in corn cob my bpcr rifle cases come out looking like new. But when fired at the end of each stage or group they are deprimed and dropped in the tide jug of lemishine and dish soap also. I want to neutralize the corrosive salts as soon as possible.

    When the cases come out of the jug after several rinses they are dull in color. I do use a nylon brush on the insides and let dry then into the case polisher they shine up quick in the above method. I add 2 ounces of mineral spirits or alcohol and a cap full of the iosso brass polish. As you use the media over time it gets "full" and becomes less effective. With the soaking you remove most of the crud and media lasts longer.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Thank you for that tip, I will try that next time. As it is I discovered the beeswax bullets I was using for the lube base are VERY old and that might be why the home made lube won't stay on the boolit. I think I will just go ahead and order some DGL or other style factory libe on pay day and see how this goes. I don't want to give up on this idea too quickly.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by armoredman View Post
    Yeah, sorry, I have what I have, can't afford a new machine right now, my bad. I apologize.
    Apologize? Right, no need.

    The responses are given in the spirit to provide help and give options.
    Chill Wills

  12. #12
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Of course, and thank you

  13. #13
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    I have a Lyman vibrating tumbler, got a separate top and some ceramic media and use that with water and dish soap to clean by PB brass.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  14. #14
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Well, my SPG lube was delivered today, when I get some time off work I'll get started!

  15. #15
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    Howdy Armor
    We are in SE AZ ! Freedom !!!
    When we ignite BP we always take a gallon plastic jug with 3 quarts water and a teaspoon of Dawn. Fire the rounds and drop them in the jug. Get home, deprime, brush the inside of the case and rinse in clean water.
    Make yourself a drying "tree". Scrap 2x4 with rows of nails driven into it at a downward angle to air dry the brass. make a hook on the top to hang on a limb, clothes line.... whatever outside. The brass dry fast in the sun.
    We do not polish. Does polished brass shoot better ? We always know what is our dedicated BP brass.
    Find out what diameter sized cast will enter the case before resizing. Cast with range scrap or 40-1. for fun shooting. Competition is another story.
    We use a cereal box wad (printed side on the cast base) and compress the powder about 1/16th" with 2F Goex. You can play with compression to find out what shoots the best.
    SPG is good stuff. 45% Olive oil and 55% bees wax ( not exact but close) is good stuff also and I can make a pound for what one stick of that SPG costs. Again competition is another story. Cans, rocks and stuff at 25-50 yards never know the difference.
    You sure are diving into a new world of happy trails !!!
    Mike in AZ
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  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I bought a little ultrasonic cleaner off ebay ($30 or so at the time) had a bag of citric acid on hand
    so citric acid and a small dab of dishwash - takes about 15 minutes to clean reasonably fresh brass - it comes out CLEAN !, primer pockets, right down inside the case, clean but not shiny - really grungy stuff might take a couple of cycles with a soak n between.
    Wash in fresh water then let it dry.
    The small unit doesnt hold a lot but I dont shoot bags full at the one time - just set it going and poke about doing some loading - always deprime before cleaning. I bought a LEE depriming die - one of my best purchases - dont have to worry about good loading dies getting corroded anf that LEE does everything from 25/20 on up to 45/75 - has never missed a beat - no broken decapping pins - no squished cases

  17. #17
    Boolit Master almar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by armoredman View Post
    I'll be looking at everything I can find here for 45 Colt black powder. I got into 45 Colt by accident, (bought a Taurus Judge, and I can't own something I cannot reload, of course), but when I realized that A), I am now casting for 45 Colt and B), there is a Howell conversion cylinder for my Uberti New Model Army, and C) well, why not? So, the Howell will be here next week, and I will step into the wonderful world of black powder cartridge - Da Boy is ALL excited about shooting BP cartridge in the big stainless NMA...this should be very interesting.
    That's all, just wanted to note that I am officially broadening my horizons again.
    BP 45 colt rounds in my SAA clone are my favorite rounds to shoot in a handgun. I started with the 45 colt in a NMA with the Howell conversion too, get ready to add to your collection. i got the SAA soon after, then a 1873 winchester then a ruger blackhawk for testing the 45 hot loads...then a 45-90 sharps by pedersoli, 1886 winchester in 45-90 then a 45-110 shiloh sharps...im looking for the next cartridge now.
    Last edited by almar; 05-07-2024 at 04:16 PM.
    “It is not enough that we do our best; sometimes we must do what is required.”
    ― Winston S. Churchill

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    When I was using both BP and the substitutes for CAS in .45Colt and .44Spl/Mag, I used an old time "magic solution" to put the cases in immediately after firing.
    A mixture of 1/3rd water, 1/3 Murphys Oil Soap, and 1/3 of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol.
    Since the soap and alcohol both come in 1/2 Qt. sizes adding the water made 1-1/2 Ots.
    One Qt. went in a container for the brass, the 1/2 Qt. went in a spray bottle to give the cylinders/cylinder gap a spritz between stages.
    The small cylinder gaps on the Ruger's didn't like any build-up of fouling or they would start dragging, (not so good when you're trying to shoot as fast as you can).

  19. #19
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Anyone have any suggested loads with the 200 gr SWC? I can find data for the 250 and 255s all over the place, but my bigger lube groove boolit right now is the 200 gr ones I posted earlier. This load will be fired through a Howell conversion cylinder in an Uberti New Model Army, and I don't know what an overload for this baby would be right now. I am thinking of maybe some of the felt wads I have for the loose cap and ball loads might work inside the case to make up room of need be - I won't be leaving BP cartridges loaded long!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check