RepackboxTitan ReloadingSnyders JerkyRotoMetals2
WidenersMidSouth Shooters SupplyInline FabricationLoad Data
Reloading Everything Lee Precision
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 31 of 31

Thread: Load 44 special in 44 mag case

  1. #21
    Boolit Master


    MakeMineA10mm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Central Illinois
    Posts
    2,198
    Quote Originally Posted by RedPaint View Post
    Sounds like I can do it as long as I use a powder that is good with not taking up the entire case. Any thoughts on the matter?
    It’s actually the opposite. Special book loads are virtually all lighter loads than starting magnum loads. What you want to avoid is loads so light that there’s so much “sloshing-around” room that the powder ignites inconsistently or sometimes squibs.

    For what you are trying to do for moderate loads for your wife, a medium to light bullet (220-240grs) with a medium-weight charge of medium to slightly fast shotgun powder (Unique, Herco, HS-6) or a medium-fast pistol powder (AA#5, W231) will work great.

    I personally load 7.5grs W231 with 250gr SWCs for “target/rabbit” loads. For “mouse-fart” loads, I use 44 Special brass with 5.6grs W231 and a 225gr RNFP group-buy bullet from years ago here.
    Group Buy Honcho for: 9x135 Slippery, 45x200 Target (H&G68), 45x230 Gov't Profile, 44x265 Keith


    E-mail or PM me if you have one of the following commemorative Glocks you'd like to sell: FBI 100yr, Bell Helo, FOP Lodge1, Kiowa Warrior, SCI, and any new/unknown-to-me commemoratives.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Martinsburg, WV
    Posts
    3,247
    Quote Originally Posted by 44MAG#1 View Post
    I use a 250 "Keith" notice the quotation marks, seated in 44 Magnum cases to the same OAL and crimped over the front drive band and 7.5 grains of Unique works fine.
    I also use a similar load to this. I shoot 2x4 matches and can shoot up to 50 rounds in a minute or two. Very light load and gives good accuracy.

    If you are using a light load and are worried about too little powder, you can always use a filler like Polyfil to keep the powder against the primer.
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3,401
    I noticed in the quote that sasquatch-1 quoted on me that I had failed to say I deep seat the 250 "Keith", notice the quotation marks, to the same OAL length as the 44 Special.
    I neglected to say 44 Special in that post.
    I then crimp over the front band.
    Works well in the 44 Magnum using 44 Magnum cases at 44 Special OAL.
    Especially with Skelton's 44 Special load.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Middle of the Mitten
    Posts
    1,507
    Quote Originally Posted by 44MAG#1 View Post
    I noticed in the quote that sasquatch-1 quoted on me that I had failed to say I deep seat the 250 "Keith", notice the quotation marks, to the same OAL length as the 44 Special.
    I neglected to say 44 Special in that post.
    I then crimp over the front band.
    Works well in the 44 Magnum using 44 Magnum cases at 44 Special OAL.
    Especially with Skelton's 44 Special load.
    Great...since 44 Spl Brass is Plutonium here...and 44Mag is literally everywhere!!

  5. #25
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jan 2023
    Posts
    13
    Great info thanks. So I can use mag primers with 231? That would help as I have thousands.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    405grain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Modesto, Ca.
    Posts
    1,263
    There are two things that should be pointed out. First, H110 is a magnum powder that works well when the case is nearly full. It is not suitable for reduced loads, as a partial case load of this slower burning pistol powder will have inconsistent ignition. It is much better to use faster burning pistol powders for reduced 44 mag loads. Though Unique works really well, HS-6 is my favorite choice for reduced loads in 44 mag.

    Second: factory cast bullets are usually made from a hard alloy. They do this to prevent dents and damage during shipping. For a cast bullet to work properly it needs to obterate (basically expand as pressure forces it down the barrel), and seal the bore. For this to happen, the hardness of the cast bullet needs to be somewhat matched with the pressure/velocity that it's being shot at. If a bullet is too hard it won't expand enough and the high pressure gas from the burning powder can blow past the bullet as it goes down the barrel. When this happens, the hot & high pressure gas will vaporize lead off the surface of the bullet. When this lead vapor cools it will condense and begin plating the interior of the barrel. When this "leading" forms in the barrel it will quickly start galling and stripping even more lead off of subsequent bullets, making the leading worse and ruining potential accuracy. If you get barrel leading from shooting hard cast bullets with reduced loads use the search function on this site to find posts on how to remove it. ( I like the copper Choir Boy method)

    As a newbie, your going to need lots of information so that casting and shooting will be more enjoyable. I suggest that you get a copy of the 4th edition Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. In the meantime, download the book "From Ingot to Target". The pdf is available here: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf You'll find lots of support on this site so don't be afraid to ask questions.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3,401
    What I would STRONGLY suggest is to try the bullets you have first before going ape over hardness, size, coated or lubes etc. etc. etc. etc. etc..
    Then IF you have problems take it ONE STEP at a time and change ONLY that step to see if it is the problem. If it is then correct it. If not pick another step and check it out.
    Don't go ape all at once.
    Take it cool headed. You will be ahead of the game.

  8. #28
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jan 2023
    Posts
    13
    Sounds good thanks!

  9. #29
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jan 2023
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by farmbif View Post
    as well as winchester 231 is a good candidate for what OP is after and mid south currently has lots of it in stock and since it is a ball powder those mag primers you have will go to good use.
    So I can use magnum primers with Winchester 231?

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3,401
    I would not be afraid to use magnum primers with lighter charges of W231/HP-38 at all.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    1,994
    Quote Originally Posted by RedPaint View Post
    So I can use magnum primers with Winchester 231?
    Won't hurt anything - just overkill because 231 is easy to light.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check