Should I get it restored?

[elmacgyver0]

I would go with the plum brown, leave the pitts, gives it character.

[725]

It's pretty rugged: especially the hammer. Replacing the hammer and any internal parts that relate to safety would be on my list. The wood could use some serious oiling. I'd use linspeed and give it many coats. After it dries, do it again. Have fun shooting it.

[NyFirefighter357]

I reefer you to this video https://youtu.be/ogZOF-WpGT4?t=175

Also a discussion post about it here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...r-takes-bluing

https://translate.googleusercontent....nD5-xUOQy1u3vw

KYT FOR BLACKEN - corrosion repair
175.00 Kč

One-component sealant designed for repairs by deep (pitting) corrosion and mechanically damaged parts of weapons. It contains anti-corrosion additives that prevent further spread of deep corrosion. Putty after application with ... more information

SKU: LUN-008
Manufacturer: LUNDA
VAT rate: 21%

https://translate.googleusercontent....RmBCBxYVWMH4tA

BROWN LINE - cold browning
185.00 CZK

Preparation for cold browning of iron objects. It is intended for repairs of damaged surfaces of the original brown birch or for browning of whole objects /e.g. weapons. It is applied cold very quickly ... more information

SKU: LUN-006
Manufacturer: LUNDA
VAT rate: 21%

Preparation for cold browning of iron objects. It is intended for repairs of damaged surfaces of the original brown birch or for browning of whole objects /e.g. weapons. It is applied cold very quickly and comfortably. Allows regulation of the intensity of brown coloration by re-application. Some non-ferrous metals (brass, copper, bronze) can also be browned. The use of BROWN LINE does not cause any changes in the dimensions or structures of the material.

Package content: 50 ml

https://translate.googleusercontent....bScrollContent

MARBLE DARK LINE - cold marbling
220.00 CZK

Preparation for dark cold marbling of iron objects. It is intended for repairs of decorative decoration by marbling on replicas of weapons of some world manufacturers and for repairs of decorative treatment of weapons by marbling in so-called "leather coal" or by creating a darker structure of marble on entire iron surfaces / e.g. parts of weapons, such as lock plates, main beds, cocks, triggers, frames of period revolvers and replicas, baskets, bows, fuses, crown loops, etc. / cold rubbing. It is applied very quickly and comfortably with low consumption and can serve as a replacement for complex and lengthy hot marbling in "leather coal". The use of MARBLE DARK LINE does not cause any changes in the dimensions or structures of the material.


SKU: LUN-009
Manufacturer: LUNDA
VAT rate: 21%

The KYT FOR BLACKEN is a filler that will take color change.
The cold brown or cold marble are the "bluing", you can also use cold bluing

The shipping is close to the same price as the products. I have e-mailed them in the past, they are very helpful.
A bottle of (filler) KYT FOR BLACKEN is about $7
A bottle of the cold browning is about $8
A bottle of the cold marble is about $9
I think the shipping for was about $15 but it goes by weight & size of parcel.

Other products
https://translate.googleusercontent....dyLST81uA0ohsA

[jugulater]

while a complete back to factory restoration may be out of the question due to pitting in the metal, one thing that would concern me is the "in the white" appearance of that receiver. that thing looks like a rust magnet to me and i would certainly want it refinished in a way that would protect it from deteriorating further.

You arent destroying any collector value by preserving this rifle. a proper gunsmith who understands what conservation is will know what to do to make sure this fantastic piece of history is able to be enjoyed for generations to come.

[Kev18]

I would use Birchwood Casey Plum Brown to make the action and custom lever match the barrel’s patina. No polishing, just degrease and apply till you get the color you need. I’d file the pits from the sides of the hammer, though.

I have trouble finding that stuff here. Il look for it online.

[Kev18]

As im planning on dying with this thing here's what il do:

Il get rid of as much pitting as I see fit. I dont want all of it gone. I dont want it to look new.
I already started going at it.But I find it look really good, you guys would laugh at me so I wont post pictures. Im not a gunsmith thats for sure.
The rifle in the picture looks sanded because I had to remove rust/pitting when I first got it. Those pictures are nothing compared to when I got it. It was gone completely.
I would like a good browning solution if I can find any for the receiver.

I managed to get pits out of the hammer, to where Im happy with it.

All the pits look terrible, but in reality it didn't take much work, they arent deep at all. Took long to get them out but not deep and I was going slowly.

Call me ridiculous but I dont like giving my stuff to other people. I rather gain experience doing it myself and saving money, even If I need to buy the tools to do it.

As mentioned before It not like I have a bluing tank or anything, I have the smallest can of Birchwood Blue and Im not to much of a fan of the stuff. My barrel is badly pitted under the wood. so Id like to get those out, but I wont as I dont have the means to blue it back.

Ask away if you ahve questions, I guess if I have picture requests Il post some, if you guys want a good laugh

[Kev18]

I would go with the plum brown, leave the pitts, gives it character.

Thats what I want, and Il get some out but not all. I dont like new guns.

[Kev18]

I Took one from far away so you guys dont roast me to bad. It looks better then it actually is. There's pits in there still.

[Bazoo]

That does look a lot better Kev. You ever thought about re color hardening the receiver? From what I know, you could probably manage to do it yourself with patience and some gumption.

I've always wanted to have my rifle receiver hard chromed. I like that look.

[sharps4590]

Welp, there went all the originality but, it's your rifle.

[Shawlerbrook]

Personally, I would shoot it as is, but if you are going to restore, have it done professionally. Cold blue will only “Bubba” it up. It’s ok for a touch up but not for an old beauty like that.

[richhodg66]

my $0.02 shoot it as is. You will never get all the pits out or filled. The case hardening is already compromised by the polishing. It is generally 20 to 40 thousands deep. You might have it re-hardened. I would shoot as is.

Yep. The nice thing about a shooter grade classic like that is you can shoot it without feeling bad about it.

Enjoy and and shoot/hunt it.

[curdog007]

At this stage I would blue it, put it back together and shoot it.
I was in the high end gun restoration business for a long time (I have now retired). For $3000 to $3500 you can buy a very nice 1886. That amount of money will not get you very far into restoring a rifle in the condition of the one you have at all.
There are very few truly competent people in the gun restoration business, and sadly, you get what you pay for.

[jugulater]

i second re-case hardening that receiver, or at the very least a proper hot blue. “Originality” is important to guns that are in 90%+ condition, not to a gun covered in pitting. make sure all the rust in those pits is properly deactivated or that gun will continue to deteriorate.

you aren’t ruining anything, you’re saving it for the person after you. sure, it ain’t the way it came out of the factory, but let’s be realistic about the fact these guns are almost considered historical artifacts at this point. they need to be preserved.

[Kev18]

How does the plum brown work, I've never used some before?
And how do you guys say you can case harden a receiver?

[Kev18]

I mentioned it before and il say it again. I like my rifles, this one in particular. I just want to look at it and be happy. Whether I pay 10000$ or do some work on it myself, it wont be original anymore. And honestly looking at something you've accomplished yourself and being happy with the end result means more to me then a brand new rifle.

[oldred]

make sure all the rust in those pits is properly deactivated or that gun will continue to deteriorate.

This is a VERY important point and definitely needs attending to!!!! No matter how much sanding is done active corrosion will still be lurking in any and all pitting that is left. This can easily be de-activated with one of the many Phosphoric acid type rust removers out there that can be found at just about any home building supply, auto parts or any decent hardware store. The stuff is easy and safe to use (it's the same Phosphoric acid that's in Coca-Cola, Pepsi, etc.) and works in about one minute or so. It will completely dissolve remaining rust usually but if any is left it will be chemically converted into a non-active and even corrosion resistant form so it won't come back to harm the finish later, it even leaves a Phosphate coating that will further retard corrosion. Skip this step and those tiny hidden rust specks, even in microscopic form, will always be active so all it will need is contact with Oxygen to start the corrosion process again. Oil will only hold it back by smothering it from the Oxygen in the air, this only works as long as the oil film is intact and over time it WILL find a way to act up again! Phosphoric Acid is cheap, nontoxic and despite it's ominous sounding "acid/chemical" name it's way less corrosive than even vinegar and about as toxic as vinegar!

[elmacgyver0]

Birchwood Casey Plum Brown
heat the metal and apply with a cotton ball.
Instructions on the bottle.

Probably the easiest finish to do.

Case Hardening
Mix scraps of leather, bone and charcoal in heavy metal box. Bury receiver in mixture and seal the box.
Place in coals of a hot fire for a few hours then remove and dump contents in cold water.

If you do the case hardening read all you can about it before attempting it.
I personally have never as yet done it, but know the basics from reading about it.

[Kev18]

Do you guys know what grit I should stop polishing. at? 320?

[roadie]

The posts recommending he do his own color case hardening are ridiculous. Color case hardening isn't something to attempt on a rifle you want to restore. It's an excellent way for someone who knows nothing about it to destroy a fine rifle though.

If you want it color case hardened, then you send it to someone who specializes in doing that, cause it is most definitely a specialty.

In this case, I would recommend finishing the polishing, keep the edges sharp and crisp.....I notice the front shoulder has a bad spot that needs to be babied. After it's polished to 320 grit, degrease it and slop some cold blue on it. The idea is to protect it from rusting until the final finish is decided on.

Or, rust blue it, being careful to keep oily, grimy fingers away from it at all times. Read up on whatever you decide on before doing it.

The thing to understand is the the polishing makes the job look good or not, the finish is just that. On a properly polished gun, even a poor cold blue job would look decent, maybe even look like a good patina........polishing is everything.