Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

Your sensor doesn't look like what I have.....so I think you need to give us more info as to exactly which sensor you bought.

As far as wiring, the following picture is how I wired mine:



The sensor need to be a 3 wire lead normally closed (NC) inductive proximity sensor with a minimum detection range of 8mm

Yours looks like a two wire sensor.....have no idea what it is.

[doublemike]

If you can't figure it out get another Slicer......TylerR says Cura works fine.......for me IdeaMaker works fine. Look for a menu that has "thin-wall" options.....

IdeaMaker's is in the "Other" menu. Looks like this:



Also make SURE your printer is TUNED! That is, when the model is supposed to print .425 it really does. I think a good way to determine that is to print a cube 10 mm square and measure it with exactness.....calipers?

TylerR may have even a better way......

I have installed both Cura and IdeaMaker. None of these have profiles for Bambu P1S. (or any other Bambu printer )

[doublemike]

I have the 634JS. The shaft is D-shaped. It's unclear to me how I would connect the shaft with the collator plate. Afais it will just spin independent from the collator plate. What am I missing?
Using the bf556 github repository.

[calgarysparky]

I have installed both Cura and IdeaMaker. None of these have profiles for Bambu P1S. (or any other Bambu printer )

May want to hit up some bambu groups on FB to find the setting you need. Don't think many of us have Bambu machines.

[TylerR]

I have installed both Cura and IdeaMaker. None of these have profiles for Bambu P1S. (or any other Bambu printer )

Quick google and tons of links. One even from a member here. This one seems to cover it. "Detect Thin Walls"
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/softwar...wall-generator

[TylerR]

I have the 634JS. The shaft is D-shaped. It's unclear to me how I would connect the shaft with the collator plate. Afais it will just spin independent from the collator plate. What am I missing?
Using the bf556 github repository.

This came up a few pages back. Here is my response.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post5706755

[HuskJ]

Your sensor doesn't look like what I have.....so I think you need to give us more info as to exactly which sensor you bought.

As far as wiring, the following picture is how I wired mine:



The sensor need to be a 3 wire lead normally closed (NC) inductive proximity sensor with a minimum detection range of 8mm

Yours looks like a two wire sensor.....have no idea what it is.

Sensor is three wire, and is the one from the manual off eBay. Only difference in the wire diagram above you have is your switch has 2 connectors and mine has 3 which is the one from the manual as well. I wired it exactly as the wiring diagram in the images folder and manual. I will try another relay and another sensor as I ordered 3 of them but just didn't know if was sensor or relay side that would cause it not to turn off. Assumed it was Sensor side.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333737317263

[TylerR]

Sensor is three wire, and is the one from the manual off eBay. Only difference in the wire diagram above you have is your switch has 2 connectors and mine has 3 which is the one from the manual as well. I wired it exactly as the wiring diagram in the images folder and manual. I will try another relay and another sensor as I ordered 3 of them but just didn't know if was sensor or relay side that would cause it not to turn off. Assumed it was Sensor side.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333737317263

I can't see your picture well since it is really small as an attachment on CB, but If I would have to hazard a guess in my experience the motor is getting power regardless of the sensor. Maybe the difference is the two wire switch? If you can post a larger picture i can examine it more.

It looks like from the pic the - in from the sensor is going to the #2 pin on the relay?

Here is a pic of what I use for wiring:

Green wire is negative in from the sensor.
Top wires are 12v in from switch, and sensor. bottom wires are to the motor.

white wire negative to sensor. red wire positive to sensor.
Hope that helps.

[HuskJ]

I can't see your picture well since it is really small as an attachment on CB, but If I would have to hazard a guess in my experience the motor is getting power regardless of the sensor. Maybe the difference is the two wire switch? If you can post a larger picture i can examine it more.

It looks like from the pic the - in from the sensor is going to the #2 pin on the relay?

Here is a pic of what I use for wiring:


Green wire is negative in from the sensor.
Top wires are 12v in from switch, and sensor. bottom wires are to the motor.

white wire negative to sensor. red wire positive to sensor.
Hope that helps.

I have black wire from sensor going to in negative on the relay (as in image in manual) and blue from the censor connected with - Power on speed controller and 12 V negative going to the - on the LED switch. I have Brown from the censor connected with + Power from the controller and + In from the relay going into the middle positive on the LED Switch. I then have the + 12 Volt going to the second + (end one) on the LED Switch. I tried to pm you a google drive larger image but I'll put here as well if it works. https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...id=f_lvvcgmqv0

[r4ndy]

Not in a position to trace your wiring at the moment but two suggestions. Try another sensor - one of the ones I got on EBay worked backwards (turned off when it sensed metal), Also, get some alligator clips and test before soldering to verify it works as intended.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inc...lligator+clips

[doublemike]

Quick google and tons of links. One even from a member here. This one seems to cover it. "Detect Thin Walls"
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/softwar...wall-generator

Thanks! I'll have a look into that.

[doublemike]

This came up a few pages back. Here is my response.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post5706755

Thank a lot for referring to that. I had used the search function but could not find this. I even tried with D-shaped. But it's probably a user issue
I also had a look at the hex clutch but thought it wouldn't work.

[GWS]

Thank a lot for referring to that. I had used the search function but could not find this. I even tried with D-shaped. But it's probably a user issue
I also had a look at the hex clutch but thought it wouldn't work.

The hex version of the clutch is the only one I use. You can find adapters on Amazon like these, of various motor shaft sizes and Hex head sizes. Notice the set screw cavity which will handle round or "D" shafts.

[doublemike]

The hex version of the clutch is the only one I use. You can find adapters on Amazon like these, of various motor shaft sizes and Hex head sizes. Notice the set screw cavity which will handle round or "D" shafts.

Indeed, they are mentioned in the manual. But I thought there would just be a clutch that is D-shaped so no adapter is needed.
The item mentioned in the manual is not available in my region but found it somewhere else.

Does anyone know where the source files of these components can be found so I can do some modifications? As I understand it the STL files are just meshes (triangles basically). I'd like to try out a D-shaped clutch, ... At least it would give me some experience with the necessary softwares.

[calgarysparky]

Indeed, they are mentioned in the manual. But I thought there would just be a clutch that is D-shaped so no adapter is needed.
The item mentioned in the manual is not available in my region but found it somewhere else.

Does anyone know where the source files of these components can be found so I can do some modifications? As I understand it the STL files are just meshes (triangles basically). I'd like to try out a D-shaped clutch, ... At least it would give me some experience with the necessary softwares.

I don't think it would work well. Not very much surface area on the shaft to keep it from stripping out easily. It may work for a short time but it will spin out. Giver a go.

[doublemike]

I don't think it would work well. Not very much surface area on the shaft to keep it from stripping out easily. It may work for a short time but it will spin out. Giver a go.

That makes sense. I suppose the round clutch is just made for a motor with a pin driven through the shaft. Otherwise it would have the same or even worse problem of constantly slipping and wearing out quickly.

[TylerR]

I don't think it would work well. Not very much surface area on the shaft to keep it from stripping out easily. It may work for a short time but it will spin out. Giver a go.

This is exactly right. A d shaped clutch will not work. Even the hex can strip out. That is why I use hex-pin these days.

[doublemike]

This is exactly right. A d shaped clutch will not work. Even the hex can strip out. That is why I use hex-pin these days.

Are the step/3mf files or any other source files that these stl files are generated from available somewhere?

[GWS]

This is exactly right. A d shaped clutch will not work. Even the hex can strip out. That is why I use hex-pin these days.

I've been using my hex adapter for years now. Nothing strips as that's what the clutch is for and it works extremely well. I've not even noticed even the slightest wear. Never used or needed a pin in what, three years now. Had to go back and check .... seemed like four years.

[TylerR]

I've been using my hex adapter for years now. Nothing strips as that's what the clutch is for and it works extremely well. I've not even notice even the slightest wear. Never used or needed a pin in what, four years now.

I think it depends on how many bullets you are loading in the hopper. I have a guy who wants to load up 1000 9mm bullets in to a 300mm size feeder. Strips the hex out very quickly.