No joy in mudville - it didn't spin - may still be brushes - so hope for a cheap solution still is alive.
No joy in mudville - it didn't spin - may still be brushes - so hope for a cheap solution still is alive.
je suis charlie
It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.
Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
Unfortunately, I do not have any info on testing the board.
Well I figure with direct to motor supply and no action that the board is probably OK.
je suis charlie
It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.
Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
That looks like a standard motor you can get from Grainger locally.
And yes it WILL have brushes!!!!!!! Small motors like that have decent HP, something you cannot get from a standard shaded pole non-brush AC motor. It has brushes (normally not replacable from external brush caps as said above) and is a universal AC/DC motor....probably 1/10 or 1/5 HP.
I have used the Grainger motors to make tool post grinders for small metal lathes in the past. You may have to do some "fittting"
High RPM (10 to 12K) and variable speed with the foot control, normally a wire-wound rheostat. Most makers do not go to the expense or trouble of solid state controls. Not needed.
Call me if you need some more info.
bangerjim
If you are close enough to a reasonable population center, try Johnstone Supply. Over the years, I've been able to replace many small motors, thru them.
Faster Horses, Younger Women, Older Whiskey, More Money! Tom T. Hall.
Went to Grainger's site and did an on-line chat with Aiden gave spec's but only motor that comes close is too big around the YDM motor is oval/flattened body 2 1/2x2 and 5 inches long - the smallest they have is 3 3/8 inch diameter round.
je suis charlie
It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.
Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
If the motor won't run, you can only improve things if you mess with it.
So, I would be looking under that rear cover for brushes to replace.
While opened up, a shot of compressed air over everything and a drop of ATF on each bearing ...
(Don't forget Post #12.)
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
Well, as usual, they have changed their offerings. I bought a motor just like the one you pictured several years ago with thier Dayton brand on it.
Good luck on your search. There has to be a service shop here in the Phoenix area that can either fix it or sell you a compatible motor. Yellow Pages is your friend.
Well called Bob in Ohio - says he will check but don't hold out hope if local Viking Service Center can't get one. Also called a couple of places that work on electric motors - pool pump's etc. but they won't do small motors - got a recommend for ...
Arizona Armature services
4641 s 33rd st, Phx (602) 276-4434
So going to take it down for him to look at.
je suis charlie
It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.
Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
You can get new brushes here. http://drdanessmh.com/vikingsmmotors.html
Motor quit on my leather sewing machine. Replaced it with a $125 sewing machine motor off ebay. Works great. Bought another motor off ebay and converted my Sears belt sander single speed into a variable speed sander.
Dysfunctional Disturbed Disabled Debonair Navy Veteran
Swift Boats, Vietnam, 1967-1968.
"You are never too old to learn something stupid."
polish the commutator with 400 grit wet or dry backed by a wooden stick to keep it flat, and spin
the rotor in a drlll press or lathe. Find correct cross section replacement brushes or if impossible,
get some slightly oversized and carefully dress down the sides to get them to proper dimension.
Carbon is soft and easily cut. Once he move smoothly in their holders and bushings are cleaned
and lubed (soak oilite type in hot oil for an hour or more) with about 10 wt oil, you should be good
to go. May need to solder the old lead to the new lead if the connectors are dramatically different.
No magic, clean, polish, lube as needed.
If the commentator is really worn, you may need to cut down the insulator between the segments
just a touch, usually a piece of hacksaw blade used very carefully will work for this.
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Motor needs rewound per the shop - $82
je suis charlie
It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.
Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
Motor back in the machine and it's alive! - now to give to wife to test it.
je suis charlie
It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.
Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
There is also Lachmiller - Coolidge on 5115 Lewis Ave Toledo Ohio 43612 (419) 475-2121 They repair all kinds of motors. Iv'e used these guy's for the last 20 years they are the best.
I have a used-but like new - motor that you are looking for. Mine is from a Kenmore Serger.
I have fixed sealed bearings that got dry by peeling the seal out with a large safety pin. Flush the bearing clean, dry and pack new grease in. You can put the seal back with your fingers. Most times the bearings are still good. Grease just hardens.
I hate bushing motors they use in cheap fans. I take the fan outside, spray soap all through the motor and flush with the hose. Take the motor out and take it apart, a while in the sun dries it. Oil the felt and bushing and put it back together. Water does no harm.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |