simple Hi-Tek coating

[Wrbjr]

I mixed too much color up for the batch but I get the picture. The 5-1-10 mix is quite thin. The container I used to swirl just showed a faint green tint to it... no mixture left in the container to speak of. 3 lbs of lead with 1/4 teaspoon as directed. Hard to tell they are coated except they are no longer shiny. Will dry them today.

[Moonman]

Wrbjr,

That's on the right track, VERY LIGHT COLOR TO ALMOST NO COLOR SHOWING
on the FIRST COAT.

That's why I went to 5/1/10 Acetone mix to help make sure the first coat is
thin, the extra Acetone will flash off, but while your measuring to dump into
the COOL-WHIP BOWL, it adds extra solution to help you maintain the thinness.

Many experience WAY TOO MUCH COLOR, especially on the FIRST COAT.

Think of it as STAINING for coating thinness, and consider it a base or primer
coating to HELP FOLLOWING COATS ADHERE and Color.

The FIRST COAT is the important one for the coatings ADHESION.

[Love Life]

Sheeoot. I coat heavy. You can see the red/copper quite easily on my 1st coat.

[kweidner]

Sheeoot. I coat heavy. You can see the red/copper quite easily on my 1st coat.

5/1/6 1tsp per 5lbs. I coat thicker than that too. Been tried at this point on just about every production firearm available. Sold near 50000 loaded round since January. all of em love it. Hardball on 9s and 40. 12bhn on lower pressure stuff. Can't argue with facts.

[Love Life]

Troof!

[Wrbjr]

Second coat of green....before bake of course..... 5-1-7





After baking.... passed the acetone and smash test. The projectile on the left is a cull obviously, used to help the camera focus...

[Love Life]

That is a thin coat!

[Wrbjr]

This is my first batch.... so should it have a third coat?

[Love Life]

Bake 1st, shoot, and see what needs to change. I use the following when experimenting with anything:

◦Ask a Question
◦Do Background Research
◦Construct a Hypothesis
◦Test Your Hypothesis by Doing an Experiment
◦Analyze Your Data and Draw a Conclusion
◦Communicate Your Results

[Ausglock]

Check you ratios.
This is far too thin. especially for 2 coats of the green.
Mine are fully green after 2 coats. those are see through.
It looks like the coating wasn't shaken prior to dribbling onto the bullets.

[Wrbjr]

Going for third coat.

[Love Life]

If this is your 1st batch, I would not recommend a 3rd coat. I would scrap what you have and start anew.

[Gateway Bullets]

If they are passing all test, then I would put a third coat on see and your results. I use 3 coats on mine to make them look good.

I would also go back and make sure all of your ratios are correct and that you made sure you mixed the coating properly. I use an air drill with an attachment and mix, coating, catalyst, and the all ingredients once combined for at least 3-5 minutes.

After all ingredients have been mixed, I place a small handful of bullets in the bottle and shake before each batch. If you think you have it mixed enough..... Mix some more! Lol

I also use one ml/cc per pound of bullets.

[leadman]

When I was experimenting with different ratios of acetone I even did 4 coats and it worked fine. Important part is to wipe and smash test every coat. Even a hint of color or flaking put them back in the oven for a little longer.
I have also used very heavy coats of Red Copper to increase the diameter of the boolit successfully. These require longer drying time. Again make sure it passes the tests.
I have tried the Dry Gold and it is a little different in the way it coats the boolits but the end results are the same so I like it.
Going to finish casting some 30 caliber rifle boolits tomorrow for continued testing. Might also cast some more linotype 22 caliber then gas check and heat treat them. My goal of high velocity (over 3,600 fps) with the 22s was met now am going to work on the accuracy.

[Silver-Silver]

I tried loading up some freshly cast bullets
CWW alloy, sized .357, 125 RNFP, M&P Pistol
They had more residue in the barrel than I normally get. But I did notice something different, there was some lead shavings right at the point the bullet leaves the chamber and enters the barrel. I am putting the testing of the M&P on hold and focusing all my efforts on the glock 17 as there are lots of reports of success with the factory glock barrel.

These are the test Saeco 147 RN bullets, they were shot after the barrel was cleaned and there was no more fouling from the RNFP bullets.
Left is one coat after baking, the middle is the second coat prior to baking and the third bullet is the second coat after baking. They passed the Acetone and Smash test.

Newest batch, Alloy was hardened WW. Will be shot in the Glock to reduce number of variables. The coating mix was 24 hours old, but should still be good.

The coating always shows up brown in the pictures for some reason, in person it looks much more black with only a tint of gold

-Steve

[Love Life]

It's the throat I your M&P. You're boolit is being shaved as it enters the rifling. I have the same issue with a S&W 1026 when I size to .402.

The Glock barrels have a very smooth and tapered transition from the chamber into the polygonal rifling.

I have done A TON of testing recently and the fact of the matter is that the Glock barrels (all barrels with polygonal rifling, actually) do much less damage to the boolit and coating than a traditional rifled barrel. However; throat and leade into the rifling is also important...as is the boolit design. For the Glock 17, you just may need a .357 boolit. All of my Glocks have done best with a .357 diameter boolit.

[Silver-Silver]

Love Life,
That is exactly why I switched to testing with the glock. That, and I wanted to minimize variables. Change one thing and see if it improves. Testing with 2 different guns could be causing issues for me. Not only does the Glock have the polygonal rifling it has 2 dimensional ramps to lead into the rifling and the barrels are hammer forged not cut so I figured they would make an excellent test bed because it has everything going for it.

I have tried both .357 and .358 sizing, the most recent batch with the harder alloy, I still have the same issue, it doesn't get better, or really have any change at all.

I do have one question for anyone with a Cabine tree hardness tester, could you test a bullet after it has been coated and let me know what you get for either micrometer reading or the brinell hardness?
-Steve

[Wrbjr]

If this is your 1st batch, I would not recommend a 3rd coat. I would scrap what you have and start anew.

Third coat turned out ok... much darker... but I am going to scrap this mixture and start over with a more precise measuring system I put together today. I suspect there was too much acetone in the mix. Going over my steps from the first batch, I found that when pouring out of the acetone can it was dribbling underneath my measuring device into the funnel. I am pretty sure that was the issue. Will make a much smaller batch this time as well.

[BMac]

Wrbjr, I use a 30 ml plastic seringe I bought from amazon. I think I paid $10 for 10 delivered.
Exact measurements, priceless.
I've seen them at drug stores if you want one now.

[Wrbjr]

Wrbjr, I use a 30 ml plastic seringe I bought from amazon. I think I paid $10 for 10 delivered.
Exact measurements, priceless.
I've seen them at drug stores if you want one now.

That would be much better as the one I have now is only .5ml... tiny. I'll look around tomorrow for a larger one.