cast bullets in a browning blr

[dilly]

I have been thinking about getting a 30 caliber mold for my 308 win BLR. However, I just recalled the thing is almost impossible to reassemble and get the timing right. I am pretty sure Browning even recommends it not be taken apart by the end user.

Anyway, I know it can still be cleaned, just not as well or as easily, buy the thought does deter me a bit.
Does anyone here have any experience with casting bullets for this rifle? Am I making much ado about nothing? Maybe I need a breech to bore cleaning system or something.

[Nobade]

Why is this an issue? A rifle shooting properly loaded boolits needs a lot less cleaning than one firing J-word ones. They don't copper foul the bore and if loaded properly don't lead it.

But if you want to clean it, just do so from the muzzle end just like you do normally. No worries, it'll work fine!

-Nobade

[OverMax]

So long as there gas checked for performance and fit the bore properly for Dia. With the proper powder charge and correct bullet alloy use. You shouldn't notice a difference between jacketed verses cast.

O/M

[dilly]

I guess my concern is that, as I have never loaded that round with cast bullets, I will probably end up leading the barrel and having too much trouble getting it clean again with the limited access.

A proper load shouldn't lead but the experimentation it takes to get there will probably involve some leading. If other people who have done it think it's not that big of a deal, they are probably right.

[MT Gianni]

My blr pre 81 is accurate with cast bullets of weights between 113 and 185 grains. I have never cleaned it except from the muzzle and when it is prepped for cast only clean it when the targets tell me it needs it.

[OverMax]

Old trick I still do with my 32 Special 94. If one suspect leading going on because of their rifles accuracy is starting to suffer. Shoot a few (4-5) high test jacketed cartridges quickly thru your rifle. More times than not those high speed jacketed will clean up a barrel pretty good. Don't worry about your rifle age when it comes to lever ones. They can handle store bought every now and then without being hurt any.

Again my theory here might not coincide with others. But its just an opinion like so many others before me.
Keep in mind as a recipe for alloyed lead gets leaner in its alloys and closer to pure lead. The temperature required to make it melt decreases.

Most leading is caused by burning powder heating up the base of a lead bullet causing it to melt as its exiting its barrel. The reason it gets into the rifling is because of follow up shots forcing it there and adding to the problem also. The softer lead is (lower-BHN) the better chance of leading happening. But lead cast hard (high-BHN) with the new types of bullet lubes available cures the problem of leading to a large degree but there lies a trade off Sir. The harder a bullets cast. The less likely to expand correctly or at all come to be. So a happy medium has to be met. Lyman's alloy #2 recipe at (15-BHN hardness) was and still is considered that medium. But Lyman's #2 alloyed cast shot at or near the high speed of a jacketed bullet with larger & slower burning powder charges. Well Sir that causes the cast bullets base to be fully exposed to a hotter & longer duration of heat before exiting its barrel. Again even with a hardness of 15 that Lyman's recipe will begin to melt and assuredly lead its barrel over time. Thus the need of Gas Checking coming into play.
Some lead bullet manufactures bump up their bullets BHN so their cast show little or no leading and eliminate the gas checking procedure. Which in-turn saves their customers a few penny's in cost. But again their cast with its high BHN is only useful for target practice and has limited use in hunting situations. One weakness of high BHN (won't expand correctly at long distances) And that's what a rifle is noted for (distance shooting.) So my advice would be. Shoot a cast at reasonable speed that's soft enough to expand properly at distance. In a rifles application there's only two ways to accomplish that. Gas check or the J-word.

O/M

[hamour]

Bore Snake all the way! Once you use one you will never go back!

I use two, one to do the wet work and one to dry the bore.