I read in an old thread about someone using JP Paste Wax for tumble lubing.
Anyone doing this if so how??
I have been using Recluse's 45/45/10 for a long time and it works well. But this guy seemed like he was using JPW straight.
I read in an old thread about someone using JP Paste Wax for tumble lubing.
Anyone doing this if so how??
I have been using Recluse's 45/45/10 for a long time and it works well. But this guy seemed like he was using JPW straight.
I do it as well, I used to add a little alox to get rid of the stuff but I dont bother now.
Most of my tumble lubing is for lee 158 grain microgrove flat points for the 357 mag, I cast a pile of them, put em in an empty sour cream or margerine tub. Theres enough heat left in the pile of bullets from casting that I just scope a teaspoon or so into the margerine tub and swish it around with the bullets. The remaining heat in the bullets melts the paste wax.
I do drop my bullets in a wooden bowl after casting, by the time the bowls full you'd be hard pressed to stick a finger in the bowl, its plenty warm. Also cast with an aluminum double cavity mould, so im going at a reasonable pace when I cast em.
Doesnt lead at all in my marlin is all I know. I'm due to do another batch again now that I think about it, I've been neglecting the little lever gun since I started playing with a sharps, but I need a break from it to enjoy some nice, easy, simple casting and reloading.
Last edited by hickstick_10; 08-02-2012 at 01:23 AM.
It always flaked off when I tried it, the liquid Alox makes it stick. 45/45/10 is very tough to beat.
Gear
I use a pretty unscientific "dollop of JPW and a squirt of LLA" to lube a lot of my pistol boolits. No where near even portions. More like 75/25 in favor of JPW. No issues with flaking.
boerrancher was using it straight.
i was cooking off the solvents and adding b-wax in a 3 jpw-1 bwax mix.
and found adding some mineral spirits sped up the drying time.
this makes a lube quite similar to the one found on factory 22's
Hmmmmm I tried hand lubing my Lee .329 205gr boolits for my 8x56 with straight JPL as I wanted to use them as cast, and not run through the sizer....
THey were as cast (.331) from WW with added tin to harden up a bit, drop quenched into water, and gas checked.... I used them on top of 20gr of 2400 and got significant leading at the throat..... in my Steyr 95 carbine (bore is 331) THis rifle has an excellent bore.... and the throat is not rough. I seated the bullets as far out as I could and still have them feed through the clip and mag well. I think it may have to do with some tooling marked on the lands... I was surprised at the leading
I would have preferred a tad larger diameter boolit... but, that's what I had.... and that's what I used
Last edited by ak_milsurp; 08-02-2012 at 03:49 PM.
"Remember the Range Day and keep it Holy. May the light of the Holy Tracer guide thy aim!"
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Anchorage, Alaska
I have never tried toilet bowl wax rings... I have had to change it it in and the material is more like a very stiff grease than like a wax... I just wonder how it'd do in a Lyman lube/sizer..has anyone tried this? One ring can fill the the 450 5 ~ 6 times and it costs but $1.50. It sure looks to me to be quite suitable as a fanatastic bullet lube.
they are a slack wax.
adding something to them would most likely help them work for some unstressful applications.
I think they vary a bit from which manufacturer and when they were made so if you find something you like get a bunch before they change. -- Bill --
I hate the idea of damaging the bullet base by tumbling the bullets, so I shuffle them around in a casserole/chaffing dish.
I would expect thinning JPW with more mineral spirits (not the "green" version) would help.
I have seen people who put a little dab of JPW in a large plastic bag, dump in a bunch of bullets, and then hand tumble the bullets for a few minutes to spread the wax around.
There a LOTS of ways to lube a bullet. There are LOTS of lubes that work well.
However, LLA has been the best general purpose lube I have found.
I also think that is correct. I use tumble lube in rifle using a mild load with a plain-base cb. The straight JPW shot vertical stringing, having the need for a lubricant. That is why JPW is mixed with LLA. Recluse's 45/45/10 has better accuracy in my rifle load, but I feel still lacks a little in lubricatuon.......
Strange. I have some bullets lubed with JPW at least 25 years ago and it hasn't flaked yet and they have been hauled in car trunk in 110 degree weather, been coast to coast, stored in freezing garages, shaked, rattled and rolled. Come to think of it when we used to use it on hardwood floors it never peeled then either.
What have you been doing to the poor stuff to make it flake like that? It just ain't natural.
I use a mixture of JPW, mineral spirits and LLA. A dollop (size of a quarter? maybe a little bigger) of LLA, about a half teaspoon of JPW and a half teaspoon of mineral spirits in a plastic container (I use a 10 oz Folger's coffee container) with about 250 (9mm) boolits and hand tumble for a minute or 2. Spread out on wax paper and come back in 8 hours. All dry, not tacky and well lubed.
I came back and edited this post, as I read recluses's sticky on his lube, and realized that I was basically following his recipe and procedure. He makes a larger volume at one time--probably better quality control than my-- a dollop here, a dash there.
Last edited by gbrown; 08-15-2012 at 08:50 PM. Reason: Correction/add
One of my father's favorite statements: "If I say a chicken dips snuff, look under his wing for the snuffbox" How I was raised, who I am.
A question from and new guy. I see some of you mix JPW with Lee Alox.
Why ?
I have only used the Lee Alox.
What is the purpose of mixing the two ?
The JPW make the alox dry with less to no tackiness and faster. That is why I do it. Plus I add a tiny bit of carnuba wax flakes.
swamp
it really goes deeper than that when cooked the jpw has parrafinic solvents and carnuba wax in it.
the alox is a parrafinic [oxidized] and calcium soap.
mineral spirits are a cousin to mineral oils which are also grease bases.
between the parrafinics and stearates and the "hydro-cracking" from the proper temp [when the jpw is reduced [solvents cooked off actually] the heat also allows some bonding of the matrials into a new one.
adding other materials [b-wax] at a lower temp [150-175-f] will allow the new "lube" to be carried by them/it or for it to become a separate part of the lubes make-up.
the simple heating and stirring is not what it seems on the surface but is necessary to combine the ingredients properly.
I lubed some Lee Tumble Lube .45ACP bullets and gonna try them tomorrow.
I'll report back on my results using straight JPW.
David
Some leading but not too bad. Great backup plan if
I need to use it in a pinch.
Lot of info in this thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=17641
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |