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Thread: Star sizer issue

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    New England
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    Star sizer issue

    I need an help in adding lube to my newly purchased , used Star sizer. Following Magms's instructions I removed the top screw and nut but was unable to screw it into the top of the piston rod and pull out the pressure assembly even after removing most of the old lube. Suggestions appreciated.

  2. #2
    Moderator



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    Welcome to the forum.

    Were you able to screw the adjustment rod to the piston? If so, then you screw down the upside down cap until it bears against top of the lube tube and starts pulling the piston upwards. Keep screwing it down until the piston reaches the top.

    Heating the lube tube with a hairdryer will also make it easier to remove the piston. Just be careful not to lean over the top of the machine while pulling on the piston. It can come out suddenly and literally poke your eye out.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    New England
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    I was able to screw the adjustment screw down until it was against the top cap. I was unable to
    screw it into the pressure assembly. the screw never picked up the thread. Just a point, the pressure assembly seemed to have been pushed to the very bottom as screw was very tight. I will try a hair
    dryer to see if that helps.

    John

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Rockchucker's Avatar
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    As mentioned above try the heat, I have to apply heat to remove mine due to it being stuck like glue. Mine won't come out without it. Keep us posted on your outcome.
    NRA Life Member

  5. #5
    Boolit Master



    Crash_Corrigan's Avatar
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    I need to use the base heater if I am going to do anything involving the lube reservoir.

    I run it a good half hour to get everything up to temp. If the lube tube is not warm/hot to the touch then don't waste your time with it.

    After removing the plug and adding lube screw down the plug a few turns to make sure it is solidly threaded on and turn off the heater and wait a good 20 minutes for things to cool off some.

    If you try to lube boolits right away the lube will be too thin and run all over the place and not even stay in the lube grooves on the boolits.

    Patience is needed and common sense prevails.....
    Pax Nobiscum Dan (Crash) Corrigan

    Currently casting, reloading and shooting: 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Sweede, 30 Carbine, 30-06 Springfield, 30-30 WCF, 303 Brit., 7.62x39, 7.92x57 Mauser, .32 Long, 32 H&R Mag, 327 Fed Mag, 380 ACP. 9x19, 38 Spcl, 357 Mag, 38-55 Win, 41 Mag, 44 Spcl., 44 Mag, 45 Colt, 45 ACP, 454 Casull, 457 RB for ROA and 50-90 Sharps. Shooting .22 LR & 12 Gauge seldom and buying ammo for same.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master R.M.'s Avatar
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    ....and don't go over the vent hole!!!!!!!
    R.M.

    The tree of liberty must be watered periodically with the blood of tyrants and patriots alike..........Thomas Jefferson

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    4,391
    John,

    The end of the pressure screw that has the handle threaded into it also has a hole in the very end that's threaded for removal of the pressure piston. Unscrew the handle from the side of the pressure screw and try threading it into the end of the pressure screw. Ah-hah. Now you've found the solution. I usually add lube at the end of a sizing session while the lube is still soft enough for easy removal. Good Luck

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    New England
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    5
    Gentlemen, the hair dryer did the trick. After heating the unit I tipped it upside down and the pressure assembly fell out. All that remained was cleaning up. Thank you all for the help.
    John

  9. #9
    Moderator



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    Glad it worked out for you, John. There's a wealth of experience and knowledge around here, so feel free to tap into it.

    Fred

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    John,

    I think I see where the problem is.

    To pull out the plunger, you need to remove the T-handle from the top of the pressure screw, flip it end-for-end, and thread the top of the pressure screw onto the plunger. The lower end does not have the necessary threads, the top end does.

    Chuck

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check