Sprue plate lube

[Sendaro]

I understand that some casters use a lube on the sprue plate to help prevent a lead build up between it and the mold blocks. I had a build up of alloy starting in my last casting section, and stopped before things got bad. I cleaned all the lead from the sprue plate and the top of the mold blocks (SAECO #632 single cavaity). Guess that I must have been casting too fast and the lead was smearing between the plate and the blocks. Would like to hear what experinced casters think of the idea to coat the bottom of the plate and the top of the blocks with colloidal graphite. I have CG in isopropanol, and use it as a lube and in some new rifle barrels at break-in. Thanks, Sendaro

[trk]

I've tried GRAPHITE, MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE and TITANIUM DISULFIDE. The last is by far the BEST!

[375RUGER]

you can use the CG, but there are much better things out there. I still have some Neolube in a small container that is now about 18 years old. I just don't find much use for it in the reloading room, but on occasion I use it in a pinch on non-critical equipment.

[theperfessor]

BullPlate.

[Sendaro]

Have been away from the lead pot and the molds since last winter. Now that my freezer is full of venison I have turned my attention to making up a bunch of cast bullets for my old Stevens 44 in 32-40. It is all original and outfited with a Lyman #103 Tang sight and front globe. I have mounted a Unertl 12X also on the rifle mostly for testing and an attempt at shooting some woodchucks with it. I find that the winter months is a great time to cast up a bunch of bullets. At our shooting house I can cast bullets and watch the bait we have staked out for coyotes. Life is good! The bullets are dropping out of the mold and looking A-OK! Thanks for the advise, Sendaro

[zomby woof]

Liquid Silicone, Synthetic 2 stoke oil or Bullplate.

[stubshaft]

bullplate!

[Sendaro]

Did some casting yesterday with the sprue plate and the top of the mold coated with collidal graphic. This is a SAECO single cavaty mold for the #632 bullet. I was very pleased with the way there was no lead build up on the sprue plate or the top of the mold blocks. After casting nearly 250 bullets the mold was still not showing a build up. Very happy with the results. Sendaro

[Bret4207]

I still rub the top and sprue down with a carpenters pencil. Simple, cheap, doesn't run into the cavity.

[Sendaro]

Wow! Never thought of that! Does it last long? Sendaro

[sig2009]

Husquevarna 2 cycle synthetic works for me. Cast over 1000 the other day with one application and no buildup.

[Trey45]

I'm using Amsoil Saber Professional synthetic 2 cycle oil. It works like a champ. Use a quetip and dab a little bit where you see lead smears beginning, and it stops them dead in their tracks. You don't need much.

[Bret4207]

Wow! Never thought of that! Does it last long? Sendaro

Well, it seems to last pretty well. Only takes a second to rub it again if it looks like it needs more.

[pastorcurtis]

Does anyone use good old lithium grease for the spots on a mold that need lubing? Any problems with that?

[geargnasher]

No, but I've used Permatex High Temp brake caliper slide grease before with good results. It doesn't have a drop point. It will literally burn before it melts, which is way above casting temps. Just apply a thin film to the alignment points of a hot mould with a Q-tip and wipe it off with the clean end.

Gear

[Moonie]

I'm using Amsoil Saber Professional synthetic 2 cycle oil. It works like a champ. Use a quetip and dab a little bit where you see lead smears beginning, and it stops them dead in their tracks. You don't need much.

Have you tried the Saber outboard? looks like it might be better than the Professional, higher smoke/flash point and better lubricity.

[Trey45]

Have you tried the Saber outboard? looks like it might be better than the Professional, higher smoke/flash point and better lubricity.

No I haven't, but I will now! I'm going to be making some lube with this stuff, I'm planning on following the "speed green" recipe. I'll buy some Saber outboard and try that along with the stuff I have now.

[MajorJim]

I've tried GRAPHITE, MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE and TITANIUM DISULFIDE. The last is by far the BEST!

Where does one get titanium disulfide? I am familiar with tungsten disulfide, but not titanium.

[geargnasher]

Have you tried the Saber outboard? looks like it might be better than the Professional, higher smoke/flash point and better lubricity.

The outboard formulas are on a different end of the trade-off spectrum between temperature range of use and fouling. TCW3-type oils with ashless detergents are for lower-temperature use (like outboard engines), and don't foul because the detergents burn clean, but are unable to do the same job as low-ash detergents at higher temperatures. Low-ash detergents are used in air-cooled formulas and need a lot of heat to burn off the ash or they leave a residue of metal salts behind. While this matters a lot in two-cycle engines, it may or may not matter in boolit lube. Just something to consider.

Gear

[gnoahhh]

+1 on the pencil rub. How much cheaper can you go for a substance that works?