I need help with my reloading table

[Jamesconn]

I have it all planned out and when my brother comes back with the truck Im gonna go to home depot, but I wanted to put some metal on top like a roll of aluminum foil except thicker and steel maybe like 1/8in i just want it on top so I dont have to worry about messing up the wood.

Its gonna be 6ft long and 3ft deep and I think about 3.5ft tall

[Pepe Ray]

James;
A work bench is not like a dining room table. It's supposed to sustain some marks.

A metal top of that size will be HEAVY and EXPENSIVE. It may be a good idea in a dedicated area of abuse but as an overall cover it's "overkill".

Your height sounds close. I work from my feet or a tall stool. This way I avoid unnecessary back strain by keeping my work up where I can see it and handle it better. I gage the height by standing with my elbows on the top and NO slouching.

Be sure it's rigid. If you cant attach it to the wall be sure it's well braced.
Good luck.
Pepe Ray

[MikeS]

If you want to protect the top, give it a good coating of either a polyurethane or a clear epoxy. You really don't want to have a steel table top for reloading, it's possible that it could cause sparks, like if a reloading die hit the top, etc. and if you have any open powder around near the sparks, well, it might not be a pretty sight. If you're really set on having a metal top, try getting either brass, or aluminium, as they won't cause sparking. I know you can get rolls of aluminium that's like .010 thick, the same stuff that lots of folks here use to make gas checks from, you could put that on the top, and it would protect the wood. Personally I would go for the epoxy, with giving the wood a nice coating of stain underneath it, so that the table would look nice, while being nice and strong!

[winelover]

My reloading bench has a ready made "Butcher Block" counter top I picked up at Home Depot. Works for me.

Winelover

[southpaw]

30" would be plenty unless you plan on using the back for storage. The bigger the bench the more space you have to lay stuff. Trust me, if there is an open spot you will put some thing there, even if you have to go and find something to put there.

Pepe is right. You don't need metal on the top of your bench. Plywood will be fine. Heck, when I get done with my house my benches are gonna be made out of rough cut. If I get ambitious I might run them through the plainer first.

Main thing would be to anchor your bench.

Good luck and enjoy.

Jerry Jr.

EDIT: Wow that really took me a long time to post!

[dverna]

One cheap and effective "cover" is masonite. It is easy to cut too, When it gets too ugly change it out.

Don

[Old Caster]

Get regular fiberglass resin and spread it on with a roller. You only have about 10 minutes to work, so plan carefully. It will resemble polyurethane but is tougher and more chemical resistant.

[geargnasher]

Self-adhesive vinyl floor tiles work pretty well stuck right on top of the plywood. Another, more expensive option, is to go with formica, you can easily order it in from the big homestores in many different sizes, and it's a cinch to apply. I've done a lot of work with the stuff, in fact just recently did the bathroom countertops with some of the high-grade stuff, a 4x8 sheet was $73, it can be had for half that and also in smaller pieces. Just get a quart of Weldwood contact cement and a disposable bristle brush, or just use an old worn-out paint brush. Have some mineral spirits handy for cleanup. A bunch of wood dowels or arrow shafts aid in positioning the laminate before applying. When done, edge band the counter with any sort of narrow trim strip, or 1x2 board, and paint or varnish it. Glue the edgeband on and use finishing nails to hold it in place.

Gear

[DLCTEX]

I have one reloading table made from a salvaged solid core door, 42"X 84". I filled the knob hole with a plug cut from a 2x4. Another is a 10' salvaged butcher block counter top from an old cafeteria, including a hole for emptying food plates. One end is covered with galvanized metal for three ft. where I do my casting. Insurance against an untended pot dumping and causing a fire. Drips and splashes clean off easily. I don't lose any sleep over sparks due to metal to metal contact.

[Johnk454]

Another vote for a fairly shallow (18"-24") depth of top. Height from floor to be determined by height of user.

After building several reloading benches, I settled on a 2x6 framework topped with a double layer of 3/4" plywood. This was covered with 12"x12" industrial floor tile. The bench is sturdy and the tile can be cleaned and waxed periodically. Individual tiles can be replaced if needed.

Another handy concept is to inlay a 12"x18"x 1/2" chunk of aluminum in a likely spot. You can then drill and tap the aluminum for various tools that are only periodically needed on the bench.

[williamwaco]

One cheap and effective "cover" is masonite. It is easy to cut too, When it gets too ugly change it out.

Don

Ditto here.

+

get a piece of 3 or 4 inch angle iron abuot 30 to 40 inches in length.

Mount in on the front edge of the bench at the location you want to mount your presses. Mount your presses to the angle iron.

[firefly1957]

Be careful with metal tops for another reason too oil kills primers. My reloading bench was a plywood top for years and I would dump primers on it then pick them up with primer feed tool never had a problem until..... I got a free piece of half inch aluminum 30 X 72 inches and put it on bench then I suffered many bad primers each time I loaded, Mind you I cleaned that top good but it stayed oily to the touch? With that 30 inch width I have presses on both sides of the bench and swage on it also.

[wallenba]

I made mine by making a 2x4 frame, screwing and gluing a 3/4 plywood sheet on it. Then I glued another 3/4 sheet over it without using screws. If you plan on working while sitting, three feet deep makes for hard reach. Put some 'fences' up around the edges. We use a lot of round stuff that likes to roll off where you can't get it. Mine is painted white and covered by
1/8" plexiglass. I don't bang on it, or use strong chemicals that harm it. I do need to wipe it with dryer sheets to break up static charge. I have a hardwood floor so it's not too much a problem.

[odoh]

Mine is a counter top, overlaid w/rubber floor/safty mat avail @ Lowe/HD cut to length right off their roll.

[MikeS]

Another vote for a fairly shallow (18"-24") depth of top. Height from floor to be determined by height of user.

John - I like your setup! You're right about the shallow depth too. I'm curious, what is that press between the SAECO sizer, and the propane (or mapp gas) torches? It looks like a sizer, but it's not one I recognize, but it looks like it works similar to a Star sizer.

James - Another idea to expand upon what somebody else here said, if you can get some angle aluminium, you might want to put it all along the front edge of your table, making cutouts in it for where you're going to mount presses (or anything else that mounts over the front edge), this way small things (like primers) can't roll off the table onto the floor!

[HORNET]

Jamesconn, if you drop down to the Reloading Equipment forum there's a stickie with about 45 pages of Reloading Bench pictures and discussion. Some of the members here have WAY too much free time to organize things....lots of good ideas though.

[Rick N Bama]

Please tell me that you spent days cleaning up & putting everything in its place for the picture!

Rick

Another vote for a fairly shallow (18"-24") depth of top. Height from floor to be determined by height of user.

After building several reloading benches, I settled on a 2x6 framework topped with a double layer of 3/4" plywood. This was covered with 12"x12" industrial floor tile. The bench is sturdy and the tile can be cleaned and waxed periodically. Individual tiles can be replaced if needed.

Another handy concept is to inlay a 12"x18"x 1/2" chunk of aluminum in a likely spot. You can then drill and tap the aluminum for various tools that are only periodically needed on the bench.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Jamesconn,
there are 'recycled' alternatives to a reloading bench that can save you $$$.

I have three right now.

1. a properly sized electrical wire spool, I put 2 pieces of 1/4" plywood (scrap from work) for the top side and then finshed with stain and polyureathane varnish. (stain and varnish from County Household hazardous waste recycling center for free) cost to me $0.00

2. a real heavy butchblock style diningroom table that I cut the top to size and remounted the legs. Cost to me $10.00 at a thrift store.

3. a mini/portable bench 24" x 20" and 36" tall made from a homemade old iron table/bench for a grinder that I got at an auction for $5. I inverted the table so the 1/4" heavy steel plate top is now the bottom (it act's like a ballast), the 2 pieces from a scrap plank 20" long each for sides attaching to the steel pipe legs and making a place to attach some nice 1" Oak for a top (Oak board at garage sale for $1).

I can attach some photo's of my handy work, but that's not really my point,
My point is that there are many options to build a bench from 'recycled'
materials, look around you, what's available for free ? Garage sales ?
thrift shops ? check it out. Save that money to buy Lead !

PS, you don't need a super heavy duty steel top...or any metal,
I prefer wood myself. If you lived closeby, I could surely help you out.
Jon

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3. Yeah, it's my Laptop station now, But I made it for a turret reloading press.

[Swede44mag]

I bought my last reloading bench from Sportsmans Warehouse. It is made by Kennedy and has a thick butcher block top and Kennedy Drawers on the right side. I attached a 1/2" aluminum plate where I have my Co-Ax press attached. It is attached with bolts that are tapped and counter sunk and screw in from the bottom up. I then use locking nuts to hold the press on. As an afterthought I would buy the ROCKDock™ -Reloading Bench Docking Mount System made by Pat Marlin one of the forum members and attach it to the aluminum plate.

[Jamesconn]

I was building it deep because I wanted toput shelving on the top and under the table.
I like the putting plexiglass around the edges to catch stuff, and there is no way I will be able to anchor it I could attach counter weight but not anchoring it this isn't my house and they won't let me do it.
My father is kinda mad I'm getting into casting and reloading at the same time and doesnt really like the idea of casting boolits he just wants me to buy them, but after I get going I think he will change his mind.

Plus where do y'all store your stockpile if you have no basement I heard somebody bought old pickup tool boxes and stored theirs in that outside but I haven't found anything yet.