Reloading the .40 S&W

[UndrGrndPrdcts]

First off, I am new to molding. I wasnt sure where to post this thread, but since I am only concerned with reloading my 40 right now, this seemed like the right place. Can somebody give me a run through, like step by step what is involved in the process? Ill probably be using mostly clip on ww for now. Not looking to go buy a bunch of fancy equipment, just some simple bullet making. I have seen how people have their smelting units setup, but thats about it. After that I need help.

[shotman]

well
first do you know what you are getting into? LOL
second auto, wheel gun?
used brass?
cast works in some and dont in others?
little more than just loading
I would get some different types first and try them before investing in the casting stuff.
40 is not a top pick for cast and most autos dont like them

[UndrGrndPrdcts]

Yes its an auto with fired brass from my gun.

[gunsbrad]

I have to respectfully disagree with shotman.

I have loaded cast in many autos with great success. So have mony others, I have personally seen. Having said that I have never loaded cast in a 40. I am about to as my father just purchased a new Ruger sr40 and as he is not a reloader I will be doing this part. I see no difference in loading this case with cast than .45 or 9mm. I would be interested in hearing any dissenting opinions though.

Respectfully,
Brad Hurt

[NuJudge]

I am relatively new to the .40, but I notice some differences from most pistol calibers. It is much higher pressure than a .45 acp. Bullet protrusion from the case is really short. It is the one caliber where I get really good results from Tumble Lubed bullets. You will find a pinned post here regarding shooting cast in Polygonal rifled barrels. Glocks are really hard on .40 brass, giving brass a shad belly curve, which scares some people.

Other than using Tumble Lube molds and Tumble Lubing bullets, the equipement I load it with is no different from other calibers. As it is higher pressure I am really fussy about not getting any deep-seated bullets, as pressures would go way high then. I also like slower powders with it that really fill up the case and make seeing a double charge really obvious.

[Down South]

The 9MM and .40 S&W can be finicky but both can be successfully loaded with cast. I loaded up a bunch of .40's last week. I like to use a harder boolit due to the higher pressures of these two calibers. I don't have any of my load data in front of me but I'm using a "medium" charge of Bullseye W/SP primers. Boolit size needs to be correct too. +.001" over bore size works for me. I seat the boolits out as far as I can as long as they will still chamber. I usually pull the barrel for chamber testing. I drop several of my reloads in the barrel chamber to see that they will chamber correctly. If any interference, I'll seat a couple more thousants then check the OAL with a caliper and chamber test again.

[songdog53]

All my FNP40 has ever eaten has been cast. Using WW's and sizing and lubing them with star. Main thing i have found to really watch is depth of seating bullet, never too deep and taper crimp them. I will say 40 is high pressure round and care should be used in checking any shot brass. So far i am well pleased with my 175 FN boolits.

[HammerMTB]

First off, I am new to molding. I wasnt sure where to post this thread, but since I am only concerned with reloading my 40 right now, this seemed like the right place. Can somebody give me a run through, like step by step what is involved in the process? Ill probably be using mostly clip on ww for now. Not looking to go buy a bunch of fancy equipment, just some simple bullet making. I have seen how people have their smelting units setup, but thats about it. After that I need help.

The thread seems to have turned to loading the .40, rather than how to cast a boolit, which as I read your post, what you seem to ask.
I fear trying to describe how to cast boolits in verbage would be woefully inadequate. I quick searched on Youtube and found there is a series of vids on casting that is at least helpful. I'm not going to critique it here. I will say you will get a lot of advanced info and technique here, that you may not in Youtube or short vids. If you have never cast a boolit, maybe you can find a caster in your area and watch/learn/try it first.
I cast for the .40 and I feel it is somewhat harder to get good results from it than for other, lower pressure rounds.
If the only comparison is whether one can put a lead boolit in the end of a piece of brass and make it come out the muzzle of a pistol, .40 is no harder than any other. Obtaining acceptable performance is another question.

[SP101GUY]

I cast and load for my Ruger P944 40 and my Beretta 40 carbine. I use all Lee equipment. Initial costs were very reasonable to me. Casting is easy, loading is easy, but is hard to explain in a few sentences. Hit youtube, lots of good instructional videos there. Cast, lube, load, shoot. There are many variables to each.

Do your research on what you want out of your loads. I use the Lee 170g TC boolit and love it. You are standing at the edge of a huge hole that can become a very theraputic addiction.

AJ

[UndrGrndPrdcts]

Springfield xd is what it's going through. I have read that tumble lubes for 40 drop too big, around .404 which wont chamber (makes sense). How are you tumble lubing and having success?

[polara426sh]

You'll push the boolit through a sizing die to make it smaller.

[bbs70]

I shoot a Glock 22, 40 cal with a Lone Wolf aftermarket barrel.
I use a Lee 6 cavity 175 gr tc bullet, lubed and sized in a Star sizer.
Easy to cast, size and lube.
I tried tumble lubing and found it too messy, at least for me.

I use Lee because of price and they do the job very nicely.
You don't have to spend a wad of money on casting or reloading equipment.
But I would highly recommend a seperate taper crimp die.
The standard seating/crimp dies don't work that well.

My 2cents worth, I use 5 gr Unique for my loads, VERY accurate in my Glock.
I've tried a dozen powders and found Unique works best for accuracy.