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Thread: No lathe required 22 LR de-rimmer

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    No lathe required 22 LR de-rimmer

    This was built in an attempt to make a de-rimmer for next to nothing and with not much for tooling required.

    I used a 5MM drill bit cut off with a Dremel tool for the push through rod.

    I used a 7/32" SF 1/2" od drill bushing like this http://www.mcmaster.com/#sf-drill-bushings/=82bjp5

    I used a Lee 45 ACP 85 powder though expanding die. I think the 85 means when it was made. It fits the 1/2" od bushing like a glove. The new .45/GAP die might require you to hone the bushing. This die is still able to perform it's intended function so it is now dual purpose.

    I drilled the die and tapped the hole for a 6 x 32 set screw with my hand drill, I don't believe that die is tempered because drilling and tapping was no problem. Just go very slow as it is small and very easy to twist that tap off and it is tempered.

    I used my Dremel to notch the drill bushing for the set screw, it needs to be below the threads so you can install the die into the press.

    I used a taper pointed Dremel grinding bit to open the bevel going into the drill bushing.

    I used a small cleaning patch holder with small strips of sandpaper threaded through the eyelet to hone the inside of the drill bushing to a mirror finish with my hand drill. I used wet dry sandpaper up to 2000 grit.

    I got all of the parts from Ebay for next to nothing.

    5MM drill rod that is water hardend is about $3.00 for 3'. That's a lot of punches! http://www.mcmaster.com/#orders/=82c9hr

    This is dirt cheap to do and it works. Put something on the ram head to support the end of the cut off drill and push em through, grip the end of the drill bit with pliers and pull it back down stripping the first one off. When you push the next one in it will shoot the first one out.

    As a last note you can sacrifice one of your Lee push through sizer rams that are machined to fit your ram head to hold your drill rod. Drill a hole part way down from the top at 5mm and then drill into the side and tap the hole for a set screw to hold the drill rod in your ram. I would grind a notch in the bit to keep her in place. Make sure you center it so it lines up dead center in your drill bushing!

    Almost all of this was picked up from the swaging forum from different posts I have read. It is a collection of a lot of great ideas and hopefully it will enable those with no machine shop type tools to at least have a cheap de-rimmer they can make on their own.

    To all of you that made this possible, many thanks!

    Now I have to get some .224 swaging dies.......





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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    buck1's Avatar
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    Nice!!!!!!!
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  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy Daywalker's Avatar
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    Super great job!! That looks really good and easy to do. I am just using a Lee .224 sizer die for cast bullets to de-rim mine. As soon as I get a push rod made first that is LOL.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I like it; simple is good, cheap and simple is great! I also like the idea of using the Lee .224" push-through sizing die. I would think you'd need a lathe, or someone with a lathe, to make the punch, though.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy uncleskippy's Avatar
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    Daywalker,

    Please post some pics when finished or YouTube it. I like your vids
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  6. #6
    Boolit Man OneShotNeeded's Avatar
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    Excellent.....I thought about using a ready made die but I wanted to play with my new toy. looks good. Are you able to do 22mag brass? The die I made and posted Ive been able to do 22, 22mag, and even 17hmr. Opens up a completely new adventure... Have fun and looks great.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Oneshot,
    I have not tried the 22 mags or 17 hmrs yet. I have made a modified insert for an old Herters press and now I need to modify the handle so I can add a cheater bar. I am surprised at the amount of leverage it takes to force one of those shells through. The federals are tough little fellers. I started the project with my arbor press and it works with way less force but I wanted to do something with tools most every reloader would have. No lathe, no arbor press, no trying to turn threads, no special punch inserts and tools everyone should own.

    The 5mm drill rod works in a 224 sizer but I think a .224 outside diameter jacket is going to be to large to work in a .224 swaging die. I don't own the dies yet so I don't know. I did confirm that a 224 sizer will work with my arbor press, I just don't know if it will fit.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Here is another try it to see if it will work. On the drill bushing put it in the die with a piece of a plastic grocery bagaround it as you push it in. I have a cast bullet sizer that uses sizing rings (WTA Manufacturing) that you put the bushings in with this method. It may not be tight enough to hold when you pull back to strip the jacket, but it is worth a try.

  9. #9
    Boolit Man OneShotNeeded's Avatar
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    I can tell you that anealing the cases helps alot. I've noticed that after the initial "pop" it's quite easy to get the cases through. Yes even the 22mag. Or at least on my setup.
    Gravity is not just a good idea........ ITS THE LAW!!!
    How can i soar like an Eagle.... When I am surrounded by Turkeys!!!!


  10. #10
    Boolit Man OneShotNeeded's Avatar
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    I got this from one of the members on here. Works Great!!! Just passing it along.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bert2368 View Post
    Decap with a Lee universal die.

    The ultrasonic is a 2.5 litre heated model, just like the one Harbor Freight sells. I fill the tank with warm water about 3/4 to top, place in it a disposable plastic beer cup with about 40 hornet cases and enough cleaning solution to cover the brass. I run one long (480 second) cycle with universal products low foam cleaner, one cycle with 1/2 white vinegar/water, a short (180 second) cycle with a little baking soda and finish with a short plain water cycle. Finish with a blow off with compressed air. Dry in low oven if I'm in a hurry, or just let them sit if not. If the water is hard, I would use distilled water for the final rinse-

    The cleaning solutions are good for several uses, I pitch it when I can't see the brass anymore. The brass comes out as clean inside and in the primer pockets as anywhere else, no picking media out of flash holes, no primer pocket brushing, no neck brushing, my dies and neck expander stay clean. Universal will send you a free sample of the low foam cleaner, I use it at 1 - 2% so it goes a long way.
    Gravity is not just a good idea........ ITS THE LAW!!!
    How can i soar like an Eagle.... When I am surrounded by Turkeys!!!!


  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    I use the Lemi-shine and some simple green. I just boil them in the lemi-shine simple green water mix and they come out nice and clean. There is still a little bit of that primer grit left but it is not enough to be concerned with. I have an ultra sonic cleaner but all those steps are just to much work and this way cleans the cases in seconds. I boil to get rid of the primer residue. On my regular brass I just heat the mix toss em in and scoop em out, takes seconds to clean them.
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  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    WARNING! Make sure all those 22 cases are empty before you boil them. I boiled a live one yesterday with no ill effects but I would recommend against that practice on a regular basis. Don't forget your safety glasses!
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  13. #13
    Boolit Man OneShotNeeded's Avatar
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    Ha...Don't I know... I anealed a few 22's earlier and there was one with a live primer. Don't know where it went but sure glad I wasn't too close.
    Gravity is not just a good idea........ ITS THE LAW!!!
    How can i soar like an Eagle.... When I am surrounded by Turkeys!!!!


  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    I am patiently awaiting the no lathe required point forming die pics...

  15. #15
    Boolit Man
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    oldtoolsniper..................WOW................ ....that is very, very clever!!!! What an ingenious solution - I admire people that have the ability to think laterally, well done!! You had a problem and solved it using readily available, everyday materials and in a cost effective way.....I'm still shaking my head.....absolutely brilliant. I am making a hard copy of this thread for later use....thanks for shaing this with us. Regards Peter

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy uncleskippy's Avatar
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    Daywalker,

    Have you made yours with a Lee .224 sizer die yet? I was just wondering if the die will be too big.
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  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy Daywalker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uncleskippy View Post
    Daywalker,

    Have you made yours with a Lee .224 sizer die yet? I was just wondering if the die will be too big.
    Not yet, waiting on my lathe so that I can make my punch and have it fit in the shell holder portion. I know a fella from over another forum, he is doing fine with de rimming from the lee .224 die and that is what he is using.

  18. #18
    In Remembrance


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    I know Bullshop said they used a Lee .224 sizer die for case forming. He didn't mention any problems in forming the bullets. I think it is Corbin that recommends sizing up due to springback of the brass being more than that of lead. I don't know if the bullets I got from Bullshop Jr. were made with the .224 jackets, but they worked fine. I'd think the pressure of firing will tighten everything up, who knows.

  19. #19
    Boolit Mold 375 RUM's Avatar
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    I made my own derim die but I have a problem with the end ripping off during the derim stage, tryed boiling and heat treating, what dia finished are you useing .223 or .224 , spring back a problem?

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 375 RUM View Post
    tryed boiling
    As in H2O?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check