Mould Lube Instructions (works with BullPlate too)

Hi All.

I see lots of folks asking how to use BullPlate, or other similar mould lubes (the lube that comes with Mihec moulds, 2 stroke oil, etc.). There is a guy on eBay that sells a mould lube that is functionally the same as BullPlate (I don't know, or care if the products use the same ingredients, they both do the same job, and for me they both work the same), and it comes with a nice sheet of instructions on how to use it, complete with color pictures, and I think it's very good. I particularly like that it has pictures of a Lee 2 cavity mould, and shows just where to lube it. I scanned in the instruction sheet, and it's included here so anyone that needs to know how to lube their mould can use it. It's too large a file to upload to the Cast Boolits server, so I'm linking to it in my Dropbox account, so please let me know if it can be seen (I can see it, but then I'm using the computer tied to the Dropbox account, don't know if this link will work for others).

If you want a much nicer printed out version, you can get it by buying some of his lube on eBay. :) And just so everyone knows, I'm NOT the person selling it on eBay. just a satisfied customer.

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http://dl.dropbox.com/u/33510159/Mou...structions.jpg

Where's the Dropbox link?

Here are my instructions :p



Randyrat’s ZIP LUBE
High temp bullet mold lubricant
Instructions for use
Bring mold up to casting temp
and fill cavities with alloy

Complete fill out is important to prevent
getting Zip in cavities

Cut the sprue and keep mold halves together

Dampen a Q tip and spread a light film of Zip
On top of mold and bottom of sprue plate

With a clean Q tip wipe excess
away from both surfaces

Also apply to other mold contact surfaces
And wipe any excess off with a clean q tip

Repeat as needed

MikeS, your link doesn't work for me. I we could get some good pics in here this would make an excellent sticky for the newbies, this question comes up two or three times a week.

Gear

I dip just the very end of a q-tip in e bottle. Wi mould hot I light swipe both side on the top of the mould along the otiter edge. I press the q-tip in the junction of the sprue plate and the mould top right by the pivot screw. I the swab around, to the best of my ability, the alignment pins.

Is leaves only a light film which I do NOt wipe off. I repeat as needed.

Using this stuff isn't rocket science. Keep it out of the cavities and all is good.

Mike S,
What happened to the link to your photos. It does not appear in your post and the picture is a small box with a red X in it. Please re-post your link to the photo. I think gear has the right idea of helping the newbies (me) to realize where to lube a mould. Thanks. BC

Ok, I just now modified the link. Please let me know if it displays the image now. I had uploaded the file to the server here, but it only allows for a smaller view of the file, which made it unreadable. I talked to my brother (who initially told me about dropbox), and it seems if a file is in the 'photo' directory it's only viewable as a gallery, but if it's in the 'public' directory than I can directly link to it. For me here the post looks identical, but I'm hoping it works for others now.

If this lube works like Bullplate, there is enough lube on the Q tip pictured to do 3-4 2 cav molds.

I have a jug of the evilbay lube -- works well and the instructions are as posted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geargnasher

MikeS, your link doesn't work for me. I we could get some good pics in here this would make an excellent sticky for the newbies, this question comes up two or three times a week.

Gear

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Well, I've fixed the link, so everyone should be able to see the scan of the instructions. They used a Lee mould in the pictures, which is a good thing, as I think most beginners tend to start off with Lee 2 cavity moulds.

If the mods want to sticky this post so it won't get lost, I think it would be a good idea, and a big help to newbies that want to know where they're supposed to apply their mould lube.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geargnasher

MikeS, your link doesn't work for me. I we could get some good pics in here this would make an excellent sticky for the newbies, this question comes up two or three times a week.

Gear

---

Well, the link is fixed, so now who do we ask about getting this thread a sticky?

It is Done !
Rich

Thanks, MikeS and Mooseman, now we have a quick reference for Newbies, that ought to save some bandwidth and wear and tear on a few keyboards.

Gear

MikeS;
That should be very helpful!

Thanks for sharing with us.

Dale53

Question: I see you have to cast at least once and get the molds hot for these procedures. Is there any detriment to pre-lubing the mold before it gets heated up, ie; before you even turn on your pot?

The only possible problem would be that without the just cast boolit(s) in the mould there's a better chance that you'll get some of the lube in the cavities, something you don't really want to do.

Grumble grumbe grumble.....grrrrr. NOW you're telling me I overlubed my mold? I didn't have to have wrinkled boolits?

Where can o get the Bull Plate lube? I see it everywheres but the link i come up w that has
Email is not working .

Thanks
Cajun

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cajunconcealment

Where can o get the Bull Plate lube? I see it everywheres but the link i come up w that has
Email is not working .

Thanks
Cajun

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Yes, I have tryed emailingjust to get the email back not delivered

Try this for Bull Plate: bullshopboolits@aol.com

I just bought some bullets from him and used this email address.

Al

Question in regards to a Mihec hollow point mold. What specific areas should I be lubing in the area of the hollow point section of the mold? I understand the basics of alignment pins and sprue plate areas on a standard mold, but being a newb, I don't wanna mess up this purty mold first time pouring into it.. lol

Once the mould is up to temp the bullets usually fall right off the pins,you may have to jiggle the mould or tap the handles for the first couple pours. I do however touch a lube dampened q tip on the sliding pins after they are hot with the mould closed.

Thanks dmize, I pretty much did it that way, lubing the pins with the mold closed and yes.. the boolits do fall right out of the mold.. purty too!

The mold in the pictures looks like a Lee aluminum mold. Would these instructions apply to a MiHec brass mold as well?

Yes. I use the same technology.

I have unsticked this thread due to loss of link functioning and OP has not been online for over a year.

Not a bad idea after reading some are having problems getting to much lube on there molds.The key od sprue lplae lube is a not use to much oh the sprue plate or the pivot screw.for the pivot screw I use round toothpick just a very little in it and applie when the mold it hot the lube will suck right into the gap btween the mold and the plate no mater if you see it on not.I have found if you applie lube to the tope of the mold and sprue plate when the mold it at casting temp and it smokes very long you have to much.That said I still get to much every now and then being you only need a small amount.