lubing REAL boolits? Maxie balls? 50 caliber

Reading through many posts about lubing up the Lee boolits I have for my 50, I had an idea that I figured you all might have an opinion on. I'm thinking about getting a .510 sizer ( if I need to I can lap it out bigger) for my Meepos push through luber (which has been modifies to take RCBS or Lyman sizer dies) to lube up the above boolits. The Meepos is filled with LARS 50/50 lube. Seems like a good idea to me, [smilie=1: but I am asking you guys for input, before I spring for the few bucks for the sizer die.

I'm just trying out the pills to see what my Tryon will do with them. BTW go the vernier put on it and I can see the sights again!!!!!!!!

I figured I will cut some card wads and lube them to put under the boolits too.

Any thoughts?

Edd

ED

I personally would not use alox in a fronstuffer *I know some have and say it works * but I would not. I use a by volume mix of 50% Bwax/40% home rendered Deer Tallow/ 10% Jojoba for my conicals and I am liking it tremendously. I also have a microcrystalline wax recipe that works good in the cold, but is not HOT weather proven yet. I use 777 and Goex real for powders and the tallow mix seems to work quite well with both propellants. I seat the conical over a dry 1/2inch felt gasket punched wad made out of high density 1/8 inch felt from durofelt to prevent powder contamination.

:mrgreen:The rest of your plan sounds good though, it has to beat the smear it on by hand method I use.

Yeh but smearing it on by hand, that deer tallow will keep your skin "baby butt smooooooth and soft.

Bob

What does the Bore Butter that they sell have in it works good with the bore buttons.The deer stuff should help in the woods just dont bend over LOL rick

Badgeredd

I use the old TC adaptors for the Bore Butter tubes to lube maxi's and REALs (45 & 50s). They are push through lubers also. I fill an empty Bore Butter tube with my own lube though (60/50 beeswax/olive oil). In colder weather I soak the tube in hot water to soften it up and then continual kneading of the tube keeps it soft enough to lube bullets while at home anyways. In cold weather at the range sitting the tube on the defrost or heater outlet in the PU does the trick.

Larry Gibson

+3 on the bees wax/ olive oil. That it what i use in my 44.40 down here with so kind of 2F. My mix might be 55 /45 as I start 50/50 then add a little Beeswax until I like the looks.
Works great on lots of stuff that need protection.
I do all my Real boolits by hand.. along with any run that there are less than 50 or so. Help keep me awake during news. This is the only lube I am "permitted" to use in the house.
God Bless you. Mike

I'm sure you know the real boolits have smaller driving bands at the base, larger at the top. BvT

and I just dig out a piece out of my container with a knife blade, roll it into the lube grooves by rolling the lubed boolit between my thumb and finger and let the muzzle trim off the excess lube when I load the gun.

Messy at the range when I shoot 50-100 in a day, but prelubed for hunting it should not be a big issue. The advantge of owning a lathe is that I could always spin out a sizing die that would trim the lube and leave the boolit untouched.

I have always been told that petroleum products (Alox and such) and black powder mix to form a tar. Never cared to test and see if that is fact or fiction.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 357maximum

ED

I personally would not use alox in a fronstuffer *I know some have and say it works * but I would not. I use a by volume mix of 50% Bwax/40% home rendered Deer Tallow/ 10% Jojoba for my conicals and I am liking it tremendously. I also have a microcrystalline wax recipe that works good in the cold, but is not HOT weather proven yet. I use 777 and Goex real for powders and the tallow mix seems to work quite well with both propellants. I seat the conical over a dry 1/2inch felt gasket punched wad made out of high density 1/8 inch felt from durofelt to prevent powder contamination.

:mrgreen:The rest of your plan sounds good though, it has to beat the smear it on by hand method I use.

---

Thanks everyone.

Michael,
I substituted Crisco for the tallow and olive oil for the Jojoba and it works like a dream. I likely have mine a touch harder and pan lubed the boolits. When it got solid but was still warm I pushed out the slugs and ran them thru a plastic tube to take off the excess. Worked great and the die is on the way to put the concoction in the Meepos for future use. Thanks for recipe!

Now for some serious shooting! When the blamed snow quits and the temp gets up into the high 20s without a stiff wind!

Edd

EDD


I had the tallow..I rendered it properly and I was darn well gonna use it in something.:bigsmyl2:
I see no magical qualities with the deer tallow..but I killed a fat early bow season buck a couple a seasons ago and I had to do something with the hard fat around his organs and on his hams...so I made tallow. I tried using it by itself, but it is too incohesive and brittle too stand alone as a conical lube. Jojoba goes into alot of my lubes ..it is good stuff and temperature does not affect it much..if at all.

It will be 90+ and humid soon...enjoy the chill while it lasts and good shootin[smilie=s:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TCLouis

I have always been told that petroleum products (Alox and such) and black powder mix to form a tar. Never cared to test and see if that is fact or fiction.

---

I am one of those that use LLA on my ML boolits and never no trouble. I admit I don't shoot a lot of boolits at a time but how many shots are you going to get while deer hunting in a day anyway? Now target shooting would be a different story.

I switched all my BP lube to Bullshops NASA lube. Its the best I found so far and it sticks to anything including the Lee R.E.A.L. that has a shallow lube band. Plus the cleanup is nice and easy.:-D Before that I used Bore Butter and Maxi lube.

I have been tinkering with a different version of the following recipe. If you increase the beeswax to 4 OZ and add 4 OZ of soft microcrystalline wax for a total of 8oz wax/ 8oz castor oil/ bump the murphys to 2 oz...you get a great lube..it will not fall out of a real boolit. I burned just over a pound of wano shutzen fffg in my 1/48 sidelocks this weekend with the lee real 250 grainer. Very good day..very good boolit...very good lube...very good groups. I even tried beating on the 400 yard gongs for a bit...That was a 20% venture with my "windage" system, but the 1/200 yarders were "meat". I never did anything besides run a pipecleaner into the nipple once when it looked tight to me.


Load was72 grain FFFG wano/1 dry 9/16's diam X 1/8" felt/ lee 250 R.E.A.L.

I started with 100 dry felts....I had 5 or 6 when it was said and done...and some will think I full of it.......I NEVER WIPED THE BORE>not once.



Do not cook this after the murphys is added..residual heat will do it. I mixed the murphy's and castor in a seperate container while the wax was melting then added the resulting "frosting" into the hot melted wax, after the burner was off.


__________________________________________________ _______________

Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools. "
__________________________________________________ ______________

I need to take a pic of my .50 Luber. I got it from some dude on Ebone, but it is sure a peach to use...

Think pocket-sized Lube Sizer made for semi-fluid lubes like "bore Butter".

Put bullet in the luber, turn the fill-screw, then push the bullet out with the captured ram.

All aluminium. Very handy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Baron von Trollwhack

I'm sure you know the real boolits have smaller driving bands at the base, larger at the top. BvT

---

That they do but the nice thing about the TC luber is the tight fit and the plastic forms around the uneven driving bands. Below is the .50 cal with 330 gr REALs lubed. Too bad TC quit making them. I've managed to get a .45 cal along with the .50 cal. They work really well.

Larry Gibson

I have one of those T/C lube tubes.I also saw them in the Cabelas catalog.I don't know if they are made by T/C but it looks the same

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Old Ironsights

I need to take a pic of my .50 Luber. I got it from some dude on Ebone, but it is sure a peach to use...

Think pocket-sized Lube Sizer made for semi-fluid lubes like "bore Butter".

Put bullet in the luber, turn the fill-screw, then push the bullet out with the captured ram.

All aluminium. Very handy.

---

Here are pics for our Machineist Wizards of Smart to reverse engineer. Plain Aluminum Round Stock.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...e/IMG_5831.jpg
.50 Lee Minnie inserted for demo.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...e/IMG_5832.jpg
Captured Ram:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...IMG_5834-1.jpg
Note Lube Extrusion hole:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...e/IMG_5835.jpg

The guy who made this made these in the '70s and recently sold off all of his old backstock. I don't think it's been patented.

The knurled Screw has a conical point to mate where the bore-bit left a cone at the end of the rod (terminating in the lube extrusion hole).

I just re-looked in the Cabela's book and I do not see the lube tubes,just the bore butter.Sorry