-
I've took a sharp knife and cut off enough the cylinder will turn.
-
I'm thinking a hacksaw blade fine tooth a little tape on the cylinder.
-
If its a lead nose you may be able to cut it down working carefully. Before doing this block the revolver in a vise or solid spot and with a wood dowel try simple hand pressure to push it back in. It may be loose enough this works. Use a dowel long enough to allow a good grip above the barrel. Sometimes bullet tension isnt as much as it should be
-
Well I have a few ways to do this as I will pick the safest way. I thank all of you for your advice sometime this week I'll have ago at this.
-
I have 2 Mosin Nagant 91/30's, and they both shoot surplus ammo real well. I decided to slug the barrels after I watched a you tube video of it. I bought a box of .32 (.315) caliber round lead balls. I took a four foot 1/4" dowel rod and measured how much I needed to reach from above the crown to just past the chamber. Then I cut the dowel rod into 5 or 6 inch pieces. I lubed the .32 cal. lead ball well and let it set up overnight. Next day I lubed the bores liberally, placed the lead ball in the crown and tapped it with a rubber mallet. Then I used one piece at a time of the dowel rod and tapped them through with the mallet till the ball fell out the chamber and all of the dowel rods dropped out. Worked on both guns and the ball worked through easily. I never had to hit the dowels with anything more than a tap.
The trick is lube the lead ball, let it set up overnight and lube the barrel well before slugging.
-
-
The trick is not to put a stick in out bores, period. If I had listened to what the little voice in my head told me.
Yes lube is a good idea, and I did it. Stick still broke.
-
No more wood in my bores, either, having created one disaster with dowell sections a few years back. Go to your hardware store and buy a length of cold rolled steel of the appropriate diameter. Put a few wraps of electrical tape every 8 to 12 inches to keep the rod off the rifling. File or grind a slight bevel on the end going into the barrel. I made a short rod for getting the slug started down the bore, a medium, and a longer one to finish up. Your barrel is way harder than the steel rod.
-
Bears reposting, I want to know this guy!
He can't fix 'Stupid' but he's fixing what stupid does in a big way!
The .50 BMG is the most impressive, that's a monster case with a death grip on the chamber!
I need to think about building a jig frame that takes the place of his lathe bed, something like a hydraulic press frame, the soft nozzle at the muzzle is simply genius!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
speerchucker30x378
--------
It's a gunsmith thing...
Unscrew the barrel and cut yourself a cap with the same threads as the barrel has.
Insert a grease zerk in that cap.
Screw on the barrel and use a great gun to hydraulic the plug, squib, etc from the barrel.
On anything with threaded muzzle, this cap is MUCH easier.
I've had to clear squibs out of AR barrels many times, this requires removing pins and rotating the gas block, or using a sleeve to block the gas port in the barrel
Threaded muzzle allows for removal of stuck cases.
You simply screw your cap on and pump grease, the case will back out WITH LUBRICATION long before you can beat it out of the chamber deforming the **** out of it.
*IF* there is enough barrel in front of the front sight, a ferrule compression fitting can be applied to the muzzle end and grease pumped in,
BUT,
It's hard on finish, brass compression ferrule will eat into finish,
And ferrules can be over pressured and slip off the barrel ends.
I consider this a last ditch way to do things.
I have some dead time in the shop, I'm on my way to figure out that nozzle and frame...
Just some ideas that have worked for me, if you can use them by all means you are welcome to them.
-
Last year my wife and I took our Pastor and his kids to the range for a day. One of the rifles I took was my Mossberg 4X4 in 22-250 Remington. When the youngest went to shoot he got off the first round and when he operated the bolt it stuck halfway in and wouldn't move either way. We finished up and I went home to operate on my rifle. I sat the butt on the floor and gave the bolt handle a smack with my open hand a couple times and the bolt came loose. I thought whew it came out, except I broke the extractor when I hit the bolt handle. So I ordered a new extractor from Numerich and started working out how to get this round out of the breech. I tried to use the wooden dowel rods and they split and got stuck. So I ran some 3 in 1 oil down the muzzle, and went to the home store and bought a 36 inch 1/8 inch steel rod, cleaned it and sanded it smooth. Then I ran it down the barrel and hit it with a brass hammer a few times and it finally came out the breech end. The round was destroyed but the bore is fine. Received the extractor and installed it and everything is back to normal.
After I checked out the case with my caliper and it was pretty oversized. I have always FL resized new brass and neck sized my own reloads. This case had not been necksized yet. I checked all of the other rounds in that box and they were slightly under the demensions in my manual. Haven't had the problem since. It is definitely an experience I don't want to have again. :oops:
-
I have two to three wood dowels stuck in my Sweed Mauser; the end of the barrel is threaded but I'm not sure what the thread pitch is. I would like to get / make a cap with a grease fitting to pump grease in and push the dowels out.
I removed one dowel by drilling a small hole in it on the muzzle end and then installing a wood screw. Put the rifle in padded vice jaws and was able to pull out one of the dowels. If I can get a long drill bit, I may be able to get another one out the same way. I used a bore guide to help center the drill bit and took it slow and easy. Can anyone suggest a cap I could use and where I could get it to try the grease method?