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I use an old Lyman vibratory plastic unit that I over hauled the motor bearings, about 40 yo. Don’t use bb’s but put in some left over diamond drills that give off a lot of static. Left over from SWMBO’s Diamond painting kits. Works very well with good pc. Started with shake method, but abandoned when the vibration worked and is just easy.
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I started out with the #5 tub and black BB's a few years ago, then bought the HF gun. Still use both methods along with the 450 sizer. All work well for my applications. Each to their own, live, learn, and enjoy.
Slim
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Try using parchment paper. I bake at 450° and have no problems, and no sticking. I usually get at least 3 uses out of each.
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When coating 224 cast bullets can you bake them on parchment paper without them sticking? It would be very difficult to stand them on their bases.
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You can make a wire basket from 1/4" grid "hardware cloth" and lay them on their sides. I used to stand them on their bases and got a lot of flashing from the paint drpping down to the bullet base. This method a friend told me about works better than anything I have tried. 10-15 minutes at 375, pull the basket out and set it on the garage floor to cool a minute or so and break apart the ones stuck together with a gloved hand and dump them out onto the floor. Put in the next batch while you size the ones you took out-repeat.
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What about the contact areas with bare spots?
There would be no paint on lead there
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That's the funny part! There are no bald spots, even where the boolit touches the screen. Try it and you'll see. I thought the same thing. Near as I can figure is that as the boolit gets coated, it lifts it up just enough due to the irregular surface of the screen maybe (?)to get the part that was touching the screen coated. Just an EWAG but I know it gets coated. Literally thousands of boolits don't lie. When you stand them on the base, the base gets coated also.
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Those “bald spots” still have clear PC without the color pigmentation that flowed into it. So even though it looks bare in spots the boolits are completely covered. That’s why I like Smokes clear. Goes on even and doesn’t look there are bare spots from color particles that didn’t flow with it. The only bad part is it shows all the dings from tumbling but they are all filled in smooth as glass. I stick with clear PC for all my rifles. Imo they are better aerodynamic…or aerodynamic looking mentally, to me, imo. I probably have brought up my tip before. After tumble coating I bounce the excess PC off in another container so I get I nice even coating.
Here is an example of ones I did today with smokes traffic purple, black, and blue mixed together…
https://i.imgur.com/WcOpPHX.jpg
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You sure you didn't turn those on a lathe?