If the Alox will flow back into the bottle, I let it. If it doesn't, it gets cut with mineral spirits until it does.
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If the Alox will flow back into the bottle, I let it. If it doesn't, it gets cut with mineral spirits until it does.
Lube after cast and cool, size while lube is still wet.... Lube again let dry over night minimum. I've never had a major problem with any of my seating dies building up lube and i check OAL regularly... Possibly using too much.. Or i'm just not paying attention:kidding::kidding: I gotta take a good look inside my seating dies and see if there is some buildup of snot.. I never worried about it because i never have to change my seat depth.
I'm talking about the dried up alox that you scrap off the wax paper with a putty knife. Do you just drop the pieces back in the alox container with the liquid stuff, or do you find a way to (re)liquify the dried up alox before you put it back in the bottle?
Thanks
Bary
Barry,
As soon as I finish that second coat, I start picking the bullets up and move them aside to dry. That is what I'm scraping up with the putty knife. It is still very wet.
When I come back after the drying period and pickup the bullets for sizing, I actually wipe the wax paper off with a rag. The Alox is more of a solid but the rag will pick it up. I keep these rags in a container and use them not only in my reloading room but in my home, barn and out on the ranch... anywhere a corrosion fighter/lube is needed. The rags are old athletic socks.
When I first started , I would stand the bullets on there little bottoms , after I tumble lubed them with LLA .
Being lazy , rightly or wrongly , I just pour them out on a walley world sack , that I spread out on the floor . Put a box fan on the floor , blowing on them , to accelerate the " curing " process ( LLA seems to never really dry ) .
The last batch I tried last nite , I uses Johnson Paste Wax on 7 batches of different kinds of bullets . Seven wally world sacks on the floor " drying " , with the fan blowing on them .
The JPW has a different stink than LLA , but it still stinks .
My reloading room / computer room is a concerted single car garage . So the stink is some what of an issue . As long as I make a good faith effort to minimize / contain it , the wife does not say much . I try not to do this very often .
I live in a dusty climate ( at least part of the year it is dusty ) . So leaving them outside to " dry " , un-attended , is not a good option .
God bless
Wyr
I can't believe this thread has gone this far without someone mentioning that they dip the lubed bullets in mica to stop unwanted stickiness/gumming-up.
For those of us who are not so frugal as to scrape up the runoff Alox lube, maybe diluting it and returning it to the bottle, White label Lube has it in 32 oz. for 9.50 and 9.80 shipping for up to 5 bottles. I have no monetary interest in this company, it beats Lee's price by a mile. DALE
Good stuff RD! Thanks!
I tried the mica trick and it worked, but mica is expensive and I read somewhere that the dust could cause respiratory problems if inhaled. Now I use grocery store baby powder and sprinkle a little over the tumble lubed boolits in a quart freezer bag before transferring to a storage container. The baby powder eliminates stickiness and lube buildup in my seating die stems. A pint container for $1.49 will dust a lot of boolits.
Charlie
I like the idea of baby powder, I think I will try it.
Do you think they will store good with baby powder on them?
The most I ever store a cast boolit, is about 2 weeks.
Clint
Cornflour!
I have to concede that some of the groups that I've shot resemble SOMETHING found if a baby's diaper, but I don't think it's the baby powder............
guys i have used the Lee for several years have yet to clean a seating die try this it works for me keep boolets cool [around 65 70 f ] heat the lee lube to around 110 f put boolets in a jar [ i use a peanut butter plastic jar] just enough lube to cover [about 2 tsp per 200] shake for 5 min everything should be coated dump out on wax paper and stand each up on base let sit for 2 days to dry in a 60 to 70 f area[basement is where i load] there will not be much on bottom because of the wax paper amd most will run off of boolet to form a ring at base this will stay on wax paper the groves will retain enough and the rest will be forced in on loading have lubed thousands that way with no problem try it youal like it rick
Ranch Dog,
I know your bullets all have the tumble lube design, but have you ever used your dipping process on a bullet of a non t/l design?
Great stuff. Put the lubed boolits into a container and add a spoonful and swish 'em around. Works on LLA and lubrized boolits as well. Keeps 'em nice and easy to handle and the corn starch does not mess up the dies or the press. Save the container after you dump out the boolits and use it again. After a while you will not have to add any corn starch as the remaining from the previous uses stays in the bottom. Cheap and easy.