I wasn't for the first lube. But after the size and re-lube i was, to get an even drying coat.Quote:
your gonna size them and lube them again why bother standing them up
I'm asking if this is nessassary, or not.
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I wasn't for the first lube. But after the size and re-lube i was, to get an even drying coat.Quote:
your gonna size them and lube them again why bother standing them up
I'm asking if this is nessassary, or not.
Well Done!!
You put some time and effort into this and it paid off.
I hope it winds up as a sticky!! Kudo's to you sir!!
Shiloh
i second the sticky idea.
I've never found it to make one iota of difference.
The reason I re-lube after sizing is threefold:
1. My first (tumble) lube is light to begin with, and
2. After sizing, the lube on the bands is often gone, so I want another coat on the bands, and
3. The first (tumble) lubing put on a light coat of lube that makes it easy for the second (tumble) lubing to adhere to. This gives me a nice, even coating of lube with no excess.
:coffee:
Stickied.
It is post like this I love this site. I've just started making boolit for something other than my 50 cal smoke pole. 30 years of making round balls and maxi hunters and I find I still have a hugh learning curve. Learning things like this will make my ne hobby much more fun.
ps will this work for rifle boolits for a 30-06 or a 7 mm or is something more needed haven't done any rifle boolits yet but it;s to much fun so far not to.
Just made my first batch. Looks good. Thank you for the pictures and instructions.
I use tl boolits but I dont size them. Do you recommend lubing once with a heavier coat or twice with smaller coats?
Excellent post.
I did try the LLA and did not like the stickiness. I will try this though.
Anyone know where to get JPW in Canada?
Johnsons paste wax is usually found at the supermarket but some harware stores carry paste wax also.Mel
I found and brought home my first can of JPW today and was going to do a search for a lube formula with it but then saw this sticky, perfect timing and excellent tutorial. Thanks
Are Buchshots pushthrew sizers for a press, or a star?
Bravo, good guide for us new to LLA newbness.
NOW THAT WAS WORTH THE READ! THANK YOU!
I do have a question though Recluse -- I read you use Lee sizers, never tried one but I'm going to soon, but can you size these TL bullets in Lyman/RCBS sizer with the sizer dies I've already got or are Lee sizers the only ones that should be used? I'm probably being picky, when I was taught to cast a lot of years back my first mold was a TL .44 cal 230 grain Lee and the guy who taught me said never to size a TL design bullet. I shot a lot through the .44 I HAD but these bullets I've got now (RD 265 grain TLGC) are going through a .444 Marlin with ballard rifling.
Thanks,
Art
Art,
I like the Lee push through sizers for several reasons. One, and most importantly, is that they go through nose first. The only thing I use my thirty-caliber Lyman and RCBS sizing dies for is straight lube application. I seat the gas checks and size the boolits through a push-through sizer, then lube them in the lubesizer.
Second thing I like about the push through sizers is they are fast.
Can you size tumble-lubed boolits in Lyman or RCBS dies? I don't see why not.
I think Buckshot can make sizing dies for both, but the ones mentioned in this discussion are for a press.
:coffee:
Thanks man..........I'm finding out the fact here as I cast several dozen after making vent lines and smoothing out the cavities this afternoon. I think between you and what I did I got my answer and its the same old one ----- the only issue I can see is the same one I always run into with my Lee bullets and Lyman/RCBS sizers, nose punches. Soooo, seeing a nose punch that isn't going to fit and I'm going to have to use JB weld or epoxy to make it fit is around 8 bucks, and a Lee sizer is about 15 bucks, and it's FREAKIN 20 degrees out in the shop where my lathe is so I can't make one, I think I'll wait till I've got an extra fifteen bucks and try one of Lee's sizers.
Lee's sizers are WAY superior to Lyman/RCBS simply because they go through NOSE first. I can't understand WHY someone hasn't come up with a Lyman/RCBS design that would eliminate the doggone PITA of nose punches and put them through nose first like they should be..............this is excepting STAR sizers of course but I don't have that kind of disposable cash right now or I'd have one..................
Thanks for the speedy response.
Art
Art, Bullshop pointed out a couple of years ago that you can remove the ejection pin and stroke stop hardware from a Lyman/ RCBS sizing die and lubrisizer and shove boolits through with a flat ended top punch, just like you would with a Star. It'd be real tricky to lube them in the process, but should work with with tumble or pan lubed. Puts a small flat on the tips of any real pointy boolits from shoving out the previous boolit, but not a big deal for most designs.
Hey Rick,
Funny you should point that out. I had to wait six weeks for Lyman to get me some parts for my 450 I broke (MY fault....) and in the meanwhile got disgusted and bought an RCBS sizer so I've got an extra on to work with now. I was just downstairs plugging in the lube heater and looking at the extra sizer I've got now so I'll play with that a bit.
Are you guys getting hammered in your part of the state? We've got winds about 30mph and whiteout conditions here.....and the plows haven't hit the backroads yet...................
Thanks,
Art
PS --- I love Dean Grennell "KYHOOYA"!!