How do you know if you have taper crimped enough? I worry about crimping too much but having the boolit slip back in the case is no fun either.
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How do you know if you have taper crimped enough? I worry about crimping too much but having the boolit slip back in the case is no fun either.
BD,
Very good post. My .45 is in good shape but I have a couple of 9MM's that look like they may have a problem. Do you think that this is the problem that many have with the 9MM leading?
Ken
Skeet, it's possible. I'm sure no expert as I've never owned a 9mm. Probably should remedy that one of these days.
Lot to think about here, great sticky.
Brother and I really appreciate this post!
I have read the XD in 45acp has a design issue that makes it hard to feed SWC bullets. From what I have read the extracting case will hit the ledge of the SWC bullet on the round in the magazine causing it to nose dive into the barrel ramp. The nose diving round's case will sometimes deform the back of the magazine causing them magazine to stop sropping freely from the gun due to the deformation. Solution seems to be switching to a bullet with no ledge on it.....I'm going to try the LEE round flatpoint 200 grainer.
Some barrels have a very tight chamber dimension. I ordered a match BarSto barrel installed on my Colt Gold Cup and specified I wanted the chamber reamed to Colt dimensions. When I got the pistol back from them the gun would not reliably chamber by reloaded lead swc handloads. I called them and it turns out they did not ream the barrel to the Colt spec. I mailed the barrel back and they reamed the barrel and it has been fine since. My son had a RIA match 1911 that had a very tight chamber as well. Sent the gun back and they reamed the barrel and it fed the ammo fine after that too.
I have come to the conclusion 1911's are made so we casters have to spend tons of money MORE to get our OWN boolits to work. (collusion amongst the big FMJ makers?!?!?!? Let's think about this!) Factory FMJ ammo cycles perfectly but I refuse to spend 50 cents to 75 cents per round to plink.
Anyway I have tried the 451 sizing die and the factory crimp die on every setting I can possibly set it at and the 200gn RNFP's will STILL not fully chamber.....lacks about 1/8"! 200gn SWC's will work but I do not like that boolit. I do NOT like it Sam-I-Am.
So now I am stuck shooting a slug I do not like just to make the stupid gun chamber and cycle. I bought it because I have 9 molds for 45cal and everybody seems to rave about it on here.
And here goes another $40 + shipping for that darned reamer! Give me a break!!!!
I am sticking to anything that is NOT semi-auto including both of my 9mm's. All my other guns will eat just about anything/everything I can cram in the cylinder/tube/magazine/whatever. Time to start listing stuff on WTS, I guess. NO PM's .....PLEASE! You will see my listing when/if I do it.
Any helpful comments would be greatly appreciated.
bangerjim
You buying a 1911 45 throatinf reamer? I'll rent it from you. Or buy it at slightly reduced price, use it a couple of times, then sell it to the the next guy for another slight discount.
Hey Bangerjim, I've been using the Lee 200 RNFP with no trouble in my Springfield 1911. It has also worked well in 2 other 1911's and a Ruger P90 that I've tried. I seat them pretty deep with a light charge of Accurate #2. PM me for details if you'd like.
Finally got around to doing this on my Remington R1 tonight. Took me awhile because I couldn't fine a handle that wouldn't slip. Ended up purchasing a Starett. And I now know why I needed the handle I did. The throat on mine was not tapered at all.
I thought I was doing something wrong after watching the video. It seems like very little force was being applied and the reamer ran really smooth. I had to really clamp the barrel down to prevent it from spinning. Had to apply a lot of force to start the cutting. After the initial cut it was easier to turn. The cut is smooth and everything chambers properly now. Hopefully I can get to the range this week to see if the failures to fully go into battery go away.
Dragon, do you want to rent out your reamers?
Thanks for the sticky.
I have a Para GI Expert in 45ACP that would not chamber my 230gn FP Lee bullets. Got the throat reamer and after a few twists, it now chambers fine. Fired it today for the first time since reaming. At 15 yards I had 8 shots in a clover leaf. 4 shots went through the same hole. All HI-TEK coated.
Sheldon, my XDs had the same problem. Turned out the chamber reamer they use is very good, just a very square headspace step in the end. Barrel needed throating to work with any common cast boolit. Easy job with the reamer. Also a test others can do to see if this is the problem. Load a round without primer or powder to the right OAL listed for that boolit. Field strip the pistol, barrel in hand, drop the inert round into the barrel, if it seats to headspace, fine. If it stops short of headspace, lightly tap the back of the round and remove from the barrel. Look at the boolit, is there rifling marks in the boolit next to the case mouth ?? If yes, barrel needs throating for that boolit. Properly throated barrel will make no difference with whatever round you load after throating if loaded properly.
Chris
If I get enough interest, I'll buy a reamer and handle and use it then sell it or rent it to the next guy.
Here's the signup thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...r-cast-bullets
if your pistola has a chrome lined bore, you will need a reamer made of carbide.
Even with a carbide reamer you would be cutting through the chrome, and be setting it up to chip the chrome off a little every shot at the transition from steel throat to the chrome bore. Chrome lined barrel would be better for a hardball gun if it has a very square shoulder.
Chris
Anyone interested in having their barrel done may send me a PM, as this .45 ACP is now an added caliber to what I am already set up for.