Last year, I bought a sealed can of linked 250 .30 M2 rounds (FN 58) in the 2xball, 2xAp, and 1xtracer configuration. The ball shot a 3/4" group at 100 yds out of my SAKO '06 last week. My question is, can I use a kinetic puller to break down the tracers and reload the primed brass without problems? If so, how should I safely dispose of the tracer projectiles? I don't know what I'm going to do with the 100 AP rounds. GF
You may find Military Ball can be rather "exercising" to pull the bullets with a kinetic device... :) Between the sealant and the crimp, that bullet is THERE!
Years ago, some shooters would use "mexican match" ammo. It consisted of pulling original bullet and replacing with a better bullet of similar weight. Better method was to use your seating die to seat original bullet a little deeper to loosen the seal and then pull. GW
GONRA sez - sell the tracer bullets ata gun show....
This!Quote:
Originally Posted by G W Wade
Seating the bullet even just a couple of thousands deeper will make pulling them much easier. Or just shoot them. Shooting paper targets with the bullet going into a standard sand backstop will do nothing that is dangerous. We've had a fair amount of AP and steel cored ammo shot into the club's backstop with no ill-effects that I'm aware of.
I would think that tracers into a clean sand backstop would not present a problem either. We've had some tracers on the range. We have some thin grass/weeds that started a small fire, small enough that it was tamped out with shoes in short order.
As stated breaking the seal by pushing the bullet a couple of thou deeper helps greatly for pulling the bullet. Both the AP and Trace are very salable.
Send them up here to me and I will deal with all this for you ?? and send the primed brass and powder back to you ?? PM me ???Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Fox
Sell 'em.
Even the links are valuable to the Class III guys.
Also, the brass may be Berdan primed.
Choot'em!
Gonra is right some people think the tracers are worth their weight in gold
Before shooting them up check with the range a lot dont allow tracers armor piercing ammo. Pulling them is faster with the redding/ foster puller its called a super fast puller. It screws in your press and a bullet is pushed up into it to the neck then pulled the next pushed the bullet out and is pulled. Seating them slightly deeper also helps with a lot of pullers.
Loading the cases "as is" is fine but on the next loading you will need to deal with the crimp in the primer pocket.
Thanks for all the input. I think I'll try the pushing the tracer bullet back into the case and then using a kinetic puller. Also, I've got the Dillon primer pocket swager that I used on 1,000 pieces of LC 7.62x51 brass. Now that was a chore. I've got all the new links saved, but here in the Atlanta area I have avoided gun shows like the plague. There have been so many ATF agents prowling the parking lots taking down plate numbers and walking around the shows "talking" on their cell phones that it's just not worth the risk to me. GF
I hope you properly cleaned your SAKO after shooting what is probably corrosive-primed ammo. Best way to do it if you don't have old GI solvent formulated for corrosive primers is to use some concoction that includes warm water; Ballistol and water, soap and water, dishwashing detergent and water, Windex, etc. After dissolving and flushing out the corrosive salts you can clean with your usual solvent to go after jacket fouling. Don't rely on Hoppes, Shooters Choice, etc. to dissolve and remove corrosive priming salt. There's plenty of suggestions (and arguments) about it on websites.
Careful with those tracers, long time ago I started a range fire using .308 tracers to get scope 'close' before sighting in with 'good' bullets. Had help getting the grass fire stopped before it did any damage. I did shoot some later, fire forming into .358 by shooting into deep snow on a hillside.My tracers were LC 74 so non-corrosive.
I pull military ball with a hoof nipper in a press, careful use of a side cut pliers pulls bullets with little damage, seating bullets a touch before pulling does help.
Thanks for the warning about corrosive primers, but I checked and the FN 58 was the first full year that they used noncorrosive primers. Began to do so late in '57. GF
I would love to have a belt of those to string under or above my cartridge collection cabinet!
Yes, they can be pulled. Like the others have said, you can break the seal and make them easier to pull by seating them a little deeper. Its still going to be a job! Try to not disturb the paint on the nose as there is a market for pulled military bullets.
The different companies (Hornady, RCBS) have a bullet puller based on a collet system, which I find much better than kinetic removal for larger batches.
Thanks for the advice, folks. I just ordered the RCBS collet puller with .30 collet. Any advice on the easiest way to use it? GF
I put mine in a single stage press, adjust the height of the die with the collet so it doesn't grab too tightly (or not enough) and then just start pulling them. I have the Hornady one. The only issue sometimes is differing bullets and having to readjust the height, but with them all the same, you just start working after you set it the one time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Fox
Seat the bullet about 1/16" deeper in the case with your seating die ...Quote:
Originally Posted by challenger_i
... This breaks the crimp and the sealants grip on the projectile ...
After that use your kinetic puller , it must be used on a "Solid" surface ...
Big solid block of wood on a concrete slab ... 4 medium hard whacks will pull the bullet almost out ... keep an eye on bullet's progress ... make the last "whack" a medium light hit so the powder doesn't go flying everywhere .
Easy to recover primed brass , powder and bullets if you know the "Trick " .
The kinetic puller leaves no damage or even any marks to the projectiles ... Sweet !
Gary