Is there a way to make 300 Savage brass out of something else?
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Is there a way to make 300 Savage brass out of something else?
Simply resize and shorten .308 Win. I have made hundreds that work in half a dozen different Savage 99's. DO NOT forget case lube when resizing. I will size .308 in .308 or small base 30-06 die before the .300 Savage die with once-fired or military brass. I use a Wilson Trimmer case holder in a mini chop saw to shorten the brass. The Wison case holder keeps the brass square to the saw. Set up a simple stop for length. I have used a file and trim die with a fine tooth hacksaw the a final trim in your 'favorite' trimmer.
I had a .300 Savage Model 99 several years ago and it was a great rifle. I made all my .300 Savage brass from LC military brass. It is a simple operation. I would take the decapping assymbly out of the full length sizing die, size all the cases using Imperial Wax, cut the excess length using a cut off saw or a file and trim die. Put the decapper and neck expander back into the full length die and size again. Then do the final trim to proper case length on my C&H case trimmer. Champher the outside and inside of the case mouth and then try in rifle to make sure they were right. my experience anyway, james
.308 once fired brass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Easty
There is some of that in a local store. 3 or 4 boxes if I remember right. No idea of its history. I could check on it if you are interested.
swamp
Thanks guys, I knew I was in the right place to get answers to my question!
Easty
I have a pile of 300 Savage once fired brass all cleaned and pin tumbled. Why go through all the work? $35 / 100
I checked on the brass. 59 pieces in original boxes/ $20.00 each box.
swamp
Be very careful with converted brass in .300. Even moderate loads can bee too hot.
Why? I've done it, only used the brass for cast plinker loads, what makes it potentially dangerous?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Cash
Military brass seems to be a little bit thicker in the case walls than commercial 300 brass but unless you are running close to max llisted loads in your 300 I see no problems. Old time reloaders would tell beginners to load 1 to 2 grains under the manual listings and it worked quite well for me. my experience anyway, james
If you want to try small primer brass, form it out of 6.5 Creedmoor. That's what I use for the IHMSA line of cartridges.
Sent PM
Unless you do NO load work-up and have already exceeded maximum in 300 Savage brass, you should have no problems. There is just as much difference in various makes of brass, Federal, Winchester, Remington as there would be using reformed 308 brass. A benefit of using 308 brass is you can adjust the brass for exact headspace fit when resizing by pushing the shoulder back EXACTLY THE RIGHT AMOUNT. I have RA 69 from the 70's I am still using, though newer brass is more concistent. I too have used 6.5 Creedmoor SMALL PRIMER brass for the 300 Savage just IN CASE I get short on large rifle primers.
I have a form and trim die for the .300 sav and use everything from 8 x57 to .30-06 but .308 win is by far the easiest and fastest. With .308 I just run them in and give them 1 stroke with a hacksaw. I use an old C fram hornady just so the brass chips fall away from the ram.
be advised if you form the neck for your .300 sav from the body of a longer cartridge like the 06 you'll wind up neck turning (and annealing)
.330 sav from 06 after turning.
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PM inbound sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockindaddy