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Hi All,
I’m looking at putting a scope on a 40-65 rifle but not really sure which one would be best. I would need it to be BPCR legal, which is really the only “must have”. My use would be to use it for target shooting and also competitions on a 1874 sharps rifle.
Which scope would be the best for my needs? I see 2 types on MVAs website, one is a “Series” style scope and the other is the “Winchester B” (is this the same thing as a Malcolm scope?). What are the benefits of each?
Some good info here http://www.texas-mac.com/Searching_f..._Solution.html
If you're shooting silhouette or midrange the Winchester B 5 works quite well and it's also a good scope to mount on a 22bpcr.
For the longer range stuff I like the MVA 23 inch scope. The silhouette mounts or the schuetzen mount both have plenty of adjustment to get most bpcr cartridges to 1000 yards, but the elevation adjustment can be hard to read. Adding the MOA turret will help with that. Or get it with the #2 mounts, the draw back there is having to change out the rear blocks. Those come with a 2-600 , 8-900, and 1000 yard blocks.
I have a "Malcolm" 6X fitted to my 40/65 Sharps
https://i.imgur.com/y9yRRvBl.jpg
I have several of the MVA scopes with long range mounts 6X have interchangeable reticles, parallax adjustment. I also have a set if the MOA knobs. The vernier scale is different to read from a turret but once learned isnt bad ( you may need a magnifying glass though) I also have one of the CZ scopes with the click less unertal style mounts 8X parallax adjustment this is the shorter style. Have the extended mounts on it and a .225 rear base with a .175 front base. ( This is probably 10 MOA in the bases). Both aree very god scopes and work very well.
I also recommend playing with the base height as this can make the elevation range more use able. You may want to look into a removable cheek piece to get the best cheek weld also.The small metal scope covers are nice but pay attention as they can disappear in a minute. I use the moa knobs on the wind-age as that scale is hard to see and partially covered by the scope shading it. The MVAs have wind-age front and back mounts Im not sure on the DZ right now. The front wind is nice for the rough setting then use the rear to fine tune and adjust keeping the eyepiece closer to center.
I forgot to mention I have one of the MVA 4/6 circle reticles in a scope and for BPCR silhouettes it fits nicely in the body of the critters. But for target you need to play with the size of the bull to fit it for best results. All the others are standard cross hairs. The MVA with horizontal mill dots might be interesting as once centered it would allow very easy hold iffs for wind changes.
The mva mildots are definitely very useful for holding off when shooting silhouette.
Chris.
I have won six individual National Championships in BPTR, with the MVA mil-dot reticle. The China Malcolm mounts are junk.
Kenny Wasserburger
Kenny is right, the Chinese scopes aren't too bad but the mounts are useless. I bought DZ Arms mounts and couldn't be happier with them. When I do it again I'll just get the whole works from DZ, their scopes are a big step up as well.
The MVA mounts are superior in every way. The allow you to get a mechanical no wind zero for long range. If you don’t understand the significance of that, you’re way behind in the game.
Kenny Wasserburger
Word of advise - pay attention to the advise of anyone who shoots long range in Wyoming. Doubly so from someone who wins matches...
Attachment 297388
Amen Baja Traveler, Kenny and Don are two people you should pay attention to,collectively they have won everything there is to win or nearly everything, accomplished only begins their stories.
Thank you all for the info, I’ve been going into a rabbit hole the last day trying to figure ally his out. I’ve settled on a combination that sounds good to me (but I’m also a newbie at this scope stuff).
If I set up a 40-65 with a MVA “A” scope and then used their adjustable front mount with DZ arms rear mount would this be a decent set up? Seems like this would have the 23” scope, DZ arms high praised rear mount and then the adjustable front so that I could adjust my rough settings.
Also, do the DZ blocks use the same hole spacing as the MVA blocks?
I don't think that A scope front mount will work with the DZ rear mounts. Would be better off just to go the whole enchilada on the A scope and be done with it. The A scope comes with the #2 rear mount, which is a lot like the unrtl mount that DZ uses.
Or with the DZ scope and mounts.
I have a 6X Malcom bolted to my 1874 Sharps chambering 50-140 x 3 1/4. I've never had any issues whatsoever. If I can see it through the scope, the rifle can hit it
MVA won't sell their scopes without mounts so you might as well try the new "A" scope with their #2 rear mount. Since you are putting it on a .40-65 you are probably going to be shooting silhouette distances so should be able to come up with block heights that work just fine for that. You can always change to a DZ mounts later if you find you want the extra 0.2" elevation without changing rear blocks.
I am personally a fan of DZ mounts on their older line of 23" scopes with the centerless mildot. My next scope will be a the new "A" scope in 10x for my new bull barreled Shiloh, also with the centerless mildot. A friend recently bought one and likes it a lot.
Chris.
The one thing I should add is that if you use the DZ mounts and are shooting in a match where you are twisting the knobs instead of holding off, you need to be very quick with the arithmetic. You have to remember where your dead wind zero is for each distance and be able to add any amount of windage from that very quickly.
I have a hard time reading the original MVA Creedmoor mounts, but I will say that if you have the original MVA front mount you can set it for dead wind zero including spin drift. Then use an MVA "MOA knob" and you can do your windage very quickly and easily without a lot of mental gymnastics which can be a pain when the winds are shifty.
As an example, lets say I'm using my MVA 23" with DZ mounts on 10.23" spacing. I might have a no wind zero of 112. If I need 7 minutes right then that is 7*3 = 21 points + 112 = 133 for a new setting. This can be tricky to do fast :-)
With the MVA "MOA knobs" on the older mounts I just go to zero and then turn 7 flats clockwise.
Chris.