.30 Luger Glock conversation

Anyone have insight on a conversion barrel for 7.65x21 in a glock? I have AlphaWolf barrels for my glock 32 in .357sig,40sw & 9mm. I love the modularity,being able to chamber down. 7.62 tok is a favorite bottleneck of mine but doesn’t fit grip wise but 7.65/.30 Luger does and has been successfully converted. Just wondering if anyone has any real world experience. Another clambering I’ve often wondered about is the little bottlenecked .32NAA. Bar-sto makes a 7.65x21 glock barrel but at $250 I think I can find a more cost effective option.

No specific experience with that conversion - although I am REALLY intrigued by the idea - but some general guidance:

Given that it's a pretty high intensity cartridge and that this is a cast bullet forum, you should probably set aside "cost effective" as your higher priority and at least do a little research into quality (i.e. smoothness and straightness) of the bore to prevent yourself from getting into something that's leading-prone. Once you have that sorted, I would be ALL OVER having Accurate Molds cut me a tumble-lube RNFP design of appropriate diameter and weight.

It should be a much less trouble-prone conversion than the half-measures taken to shoot 9mm out of what was initially a .40 platform. As I recall, the ONLY think Georg Luger did to go from .30 to 9mm on the P-08 was bore the tube out.

Zero experience or opinion regarding the .32 NAA but lots of time with the .30 Mauser/Tokarev and I have a high regard for that cartridge. With flat nosed cast bullets, the .30 Mauser makes a vicious wound. Can't offer an opinion on converting a Glock but it would seem simple and effective to convert a 1911 in .38 Super to the bottleneck .30.

Id imagine 311008 would be a great fit for this whole idea. Owning a G19 and G17 myself I am interested in this, never even thought of the possibility prior to seeing your post.

I have a rock island 2011 tactical that was severely violated by bubba,if the poor girl human bubba would have got the chair. It was very poorly converted to 9x25(Dillon),frame battered,slide butchered,just about crap in all aspects. After putting all new goodies in the frame&used slide I rebuilt the entire pistol and ordered 38 super barrel/spring and .30 Luger barrel. I like the little 7.65 bottle neck and I trust it. I like reloading and shooting bottlenecks like the Dillon,357sig,7.62tok/7.65/7.63 ect. I don’t need to chamber my carry piece it but I want to. Besides granddad passed the wildcat bug/sickness gene to me lol I embracea challenge lol

Not specific to Glock 9mms, but for a short time Ruger made their P-89 series pistols with a swap barrel in 30 Luger. I have one of these examples, and I have shot it A LOT in both calibers.

The boxed pistol came with two barrels and with 2 recoil springs. The heavier-tension 9mm spring is a slip-over fit on its guide rod, the lighter-tension 30 Luger spring is captive on its guide rod (much like a Glock pistol).

Winchester 30 Luger factory loads ran OK with the lighter recoil spring in place. They are very light loads, barely managing 1100 FPS. Even in the mid-1990s, that ammo was EXPENSIVE. With the heavier spring in place, my pistol would not fully function on factory W-W ammo. Reloads run at European specs (93 grain bullets at 1250 FPS) would function sluggishly but completely with the 9mm spring in place.

I figured a lighter spring would be in order just from experience with chambering down from .357sig to 9mm in my 32 I have run a lighter spring and my 1911 won’t cycle.38 super with the .45 spring in it.

I had a 1923 Commercial Luger in .30 Luger way back when. Being a gun trading fanatic I only kept it long enough to load some 100 gr Speer plinkers- I had to work the charge up until the toggle- top functioned correctly. I do remember killing a cotton tail rabbit with it!

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I once relined a P 38 Luger from 9 mm to 30 Luger with a piece of a 308 Win. barrel. I found that the original 9 mm barrels had a liner in them so I drilled / bored it out and made the 30 cal. Liner and also made the reamer from drill rod as a D bit reamer. The guy I did it for fit the barrel to his pistol frame and told me it worked well.
I parkerized it and it looked almost original when the owner sent me pics of the finished pistol.

Jedman

I have seen the 30 Luger swap barrels for the Glock 9mms on sale, and IME the caliber is worth loading for. Starline makes brass for the caliber, and the 85-115 grain 30/31 caliber bullets can be adapted to the caliber with a little fiddling. Just know that most barrels for the 30 Luger have short, abrupt throating that can complicate bullet selection a bit.

Another quirk of the 30 Luger (and the 30 Mauser/7.62 x 25 Tokarev) is the short little neck these calibers have. Oftentimes, these tiny necks won't support a bullet fully against feedramp contact, and a telescoping bullet can result in feeding failure/stoppage. A gentle roll crimp will help secure the bullet in place, just be aware that too much roll crimp can cause the case neck to "spring away" from the bullet sidewall. Make haste slowly, IOW.

The 30 Luger is a great field caliber for small game and varmints. It shoots "flat" and my Ruger is quite accurate. Best cast bullet? Lee 100 grain RN, with the crimp placed right into the drive band between the bullet's two lube grooves. YES--turn that crimp into the bullet metal--not hard, just enough for the case mouth edge to dig in slightly. Run to 1150-1200 FPS, this load will not strain the light recoil spring (cause excessive impact peening) and will function the heavier spring adequately (though a bit sluggishly--don't limp-wrist the pistol).

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Originally Posted by 9.3X62AL

Not specific to Glock 9mms, but for a short time Ruger made their P-89 series pistols with a swap barrel in 30 Luger. I have one of these examples, and I have shot it A LOT in both calibers.

The boxed pistol came with two barrels and with 2 recoil springs. The heavier-tension 9mm spring is a slip-over fit on its guide rod, the lighter-tension 30 Luger spring is captive on its guide rod (much like a Glock pistol).

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I wonder how much of that need for two recoil springs was due to the MASSIVE slide construction of the P-89 and Bill Ruger's general intention to have it able to run constantly on hot Euro 9mm subgun rounds.

My brother has a FN/Browning Hi-Power that came with a new bar-sto barrel as well as the stock,shot out barrel that was relined 7.65x21,it’s a fine shooting pistol and that old warhorse eats pretty much everything I’ve loaded for it. He likes the 85/6gr semi wadders the best. I’ve got 16” of 7.65/30Luger liner somewhere in the shop,I foresee a relined barrel in the future for my G38 or a relined barrel for the 19/23/32/38 sized 80% frame kit I have and build a dedicated.30 Luger piece.

Just remembered something that I should mention,factory glock barrels are pretty damned hard. Aftermarket barrel would be the best to reline. I have a couple aftermarket 19 9mm & .40 barrels that’s have had ungodly amounts of jacketed rounds wizzed through them over the years.

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Originally Posted by Bigslug

I wonder how much of that need for two recoil springs was due to the MASSIVE slide construction of the P-89 and Bill Ruger's general intention to have it able to run constantly on hot Euro 9mm subgun rounds.

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That slide is a CHUNK, all right. Most things Ruger are way over-built. Not a bad thing, necessarily--but refinement might get left in the dust.

I’m going to move forward with this project,I have roughly 10” of 7.65x21 liner purchased originally from track of the wolf,it’s been on the shelf for a while,and in my box O glock barrels I have one of the original 23 conversion barrels I bought when I bought my first G23 and ordered 9mm & 357sig barrels for it. It has had untold thousands of rounds of 9mm sent down it over the past years. The 9mm barrels for the 23 slide are a little meatier than a stock 19 9mm barrel ,shoulda be a good candidate to chuck in the lathe and either sends a drill bit or reamer down the bore and a final ream to sneak up on final Bore diameter to facilitate the 7.65 liner.