how old is this OHAUS 44-250-K ?

8-)

https://i.imgur.com/WhPOBgI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BbceSCw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/G07LEqB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cFni2d2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HpwRjVN.jpg

satan's mold? Your neck is cracked looks like on the crimp

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EMC45

satan's mold? Your neck is cracked looks like on the crimp

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I have a Ohaus mold that I purchased new around 1972. My mold is a copy of a Lyman 452 389. I don't believe that Ohaus sold molds very long. I believe they quit around 1980.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

Not very old, it don't have wiskers.

70's-early 80's sounds about right. According to the sales slip folded inside the factory box, one of my Ohaus molds was purchased in 1974 and my copy of Ken Waters' "Pet Loads" is a 1980 edition where he still provided load data for Ohaus molds.

Bill

IIRC, RCBS bought Ohaus's reloading stuff, except for their scales, cerca 1975. might be a smidge later, but in my 1973 Shooters Bible, Molds were still offered by Ohaus. They are not mentioned in my 1975 Gun Digest, but Ohaus is still listed as a manufacturer of scales. My first set of RCBS Molds were virtually identical to the Ohaus mold I have now. I bought the RCBS 38-162 in 1976 or early 1977. Ohaus bought another outfit in the late 50's to get into the boolit casting business. I'm not sure if it was Lachmiller or Cramer, but Ohaus only stayed in the boolit mold business for about 15 years.

This thread got me thinking about the Ohaus molds I have on hand. There are seven (7) Ohaus molds from 22 through 45 caliber, also two (2) Lachmiller molds. IIRC the Ohaus molds typically throw a slightly heavy bullet, more than claimed by the scripted weight on the mold. The worst is a 32 revolver mold (0.314") of round nose design. It can produce boolits 10 grains over weight with wheel weight alloy, whereas other molds will be within2-3 grains above or below the claimed weight. In order to get this mold to make a 87 grain boolit I have to cast them with linotype. Man, that's pricey for the 32 S&W fodder.

I figured early 1970's, but wasn't sure

I makes nice bullets

clear and carolina blue coated...

https://i.imgur.com/yg8C95d.jpg

pretty loads there! I like that color on some of the classic cars from the early 50's and earlier!

By definition ANY Ohaus mold must by definition be 40years old as they were all made in the 1970's

I recently purchased an Ohaus 30-130-S 4 cavity mold and it needs some considerable help, the cavities are fine, some "light" rust,
but the outsides of the blocks are largely polished scale which I intend to remove by brutal chemical means, Specifically Hydrochloric
Acid and After doing so I will take advantage of the fact that I have a Coal Stove and lots of experience "seasoning" cast Iron cookware.

Which means I will get the blocks "Hot" and Quench them in light Machine oil to give them a corrosion resistant non-stick coating of carbonized oil.

If anyone had any suggestions, please comment

Does this mold have any collector value ?

Thinking about getting a similar 4 cavity

thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AllanD

By definition ANY Ohaus mold must by definition be 40years old as they were all made in the 1970's

I recently purchased an Ohaus 30-130-S 4 cavity mold and it needs some considerable help, the cavities are fine, some "light" rust,
but the outsides of the blocks are largely polished scale which I intend to remove by brutal chemical means, Specifically Hydrochloric
Acid and After doing so I will take advantage of the fact that I have a Coal Stove and lots of experience "seasoning" cast Iron cookware.

Which means I will get the blocks "Hot" and Quench them in light Machine oil to give them a corrosion resistant non-stick coating of carbonized oil.

If anyone had any suggestions, please comment

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This is not the great Idea that some might think. That carbonized oil will plug the vent lines and may decrease the volume of the boolits enough to cause issues with leading. (It won't stay out of the cavities). Look at rust bluing if you must go with bluing.

Just use it after you get it clean. It will heat blue.

you guys should start your own thread on rusty molds, this one is wonderful

https://i.imgur.com/e7DEeVv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5U7woh8.jpg

The center line alignment pins are a dead give away to it being a late '71 to '74 mould. The later models were made with typical alignment pins like Ideal & Lyman.
This mould should have a good collector value, especially in it's current condition which looks to be used/very good condition.

Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by masscaster

The center line alignment pins are a dead give away to it being a late '71 to '74 mould. The later models were made with typical alignment pins like Ideal & Lyman.
This mould should have a good collector value, especially in it's current condition which looks to be used/very good condition.

Jeff

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thanks

It works great, I just wish it was a 4 cavity.

Might post it for sale, and then get a 429421 or something.

I'm spoiled by 6 cavity molds

Posted it for sale...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-2-cavity-mold

Attachment 211809Attachment 211810

A new set of Ohaus molds, gun writers samples. They were made by Lyman and are exactly the same, thus this set was never used as there was nothing to write about.
They are now part of the ARTCA collection.