Originally Posted by
TurnipEaterDown
Not every mold is made to take every check. Some mold makers specify checks. There are different thicknesses.
Didn't say what mold & check, so it could be a good thing to verify that the check is correct for mold.
You do say that you had to seat the checks w/ a mallet, and that seems pretty forceful. Usually mine will snap on w/ just a hint of effort (Hornady checks are what I usually use on 30s, 32s (8mm), 35s, 416s, and 44s).
Some of my LEE molds produce bullets that are very hard to get checks on. I always inspect the bullet base condition for flash if I start experiencing it. I think the LEE diameter control is just a little loosey goosey (i.e. SPC is not their strong suit).
(Since the LEE sizer itself is a budget form of the idea of the Noe sizer, the following comments..)
In any event on some bullets where they do snap on squarely I run them through twice with the NOE sizing die -- first time base up (nose punch in the ram adapter) to get the check crimped, then I pan lube and run them through nose first with the flat ram. Doubles the work, but in the instance I am describing I just don't care because 500-700 last me a long time.
On some that are a little tough to seat I have used the LAM II to seat the checks squarely and then run up in the NOE sizer.
(I don't do this w/ everything, just a work around explanation. For instance: Some things I run through the LAM II in one step w/ the GC.)
Probably some wiser fella could give a 'less work' recommendation, but these things have worked for me.