Shot loads in cap and ball pistols-is it practical?
Will the shot have enough velocity to be effective?
I was thinking for the .44 caliber remingtons or colts.
Printable View
Shot loads in cap and ball pistols-is it practical?
Will the shot have enough velocity to be effective?
I was thinking for the .44 caliber remingtons or colts.
You may want to post this in the Muzzleloader Sub-forum.
As per your question I have no idea.
I think Anny Oakly and that crowd did a lot of that kind of stuff.
With a ROA, and 30 grains of 3f, there isn't much room left. Even using a cardboard over powder wad, the shot charge wouldn't exceed half of what you can get into a 45 colt, maybe 75 grains. I'm not sure what would work for an over shot wad. More than one chamber loaded with shot, and you would probably experience shot and wad coming out of the next chamber. A single shot ml pistol with 35-40 grains 3f, and a 410 shot wad would be a better way to go. The limiting factor would be the strength of the stock.
As this would probably only be used for snakes during an early muzzleloading season, I wonder how 15-20 grains of fffg under a dowel-formed paper cartridge of shot would work? I may have to give it a shot, pardon the pun, as my brother and I will both be carrying Old Army revolvers as backup during this fall's BP season. If it was only loaded in the first chamber to come up it might work OK. For a one-shot loading I doubt if lube would be necessary. GF
Over the shot wad would be a gas check.Quote:
Originally Posted by gunther
I believe 15 grns of triple f and a charge of shot would be effective but even a gas check might not have enough "grip". I think I would try a shot capsule rolled from typing paper 2 wraps with a typing paper bottom and heavy card over shot to set .020-.030 below cylinder mouth. The over shot wad will need to be glued in place.
The other that might work is a stack of thin discs maybe .015 -.020 thick
What ever you use for a projectile it has to press is the chamber to hold and to seal the chamber from flash overs
I seem to remember Blackie Thomas doing it in a youtube video. How effective it would be in real life???
I tried it in a CVA Kentucky pistol when I was about 13. I don't remember the powder charge, probably my standard load of 30 gr FFFg and a dipper from my .410 Lee loader, again probably 3/4 oz of 7½ shot. I did use a poly patch for over the powder, and I think as the over shot wad.
Results were impressive (I kind of remember it 45 years later) but not effective. Target was a scrap piece of plywood roughly 12"x18" with less than a half dozen hits on the wood, but a large donut around it.
That one shot was enough, I never tried it again.
I do play around with cartridge shotloads still.
Robert
Sounds like one would have to use a dragoon or walker that has more space in the cylinder chambers.
Maybe not. My experiences with making pistol shot cartridges shows that One gets better performance with a reduced load (as compared to standard cartridge loads with a solid projectile.
If One is looking to load, say, a Remington Army 44. Try about 15 gr (as was suggested by another member), a 1/16" cardboard over-powder card, seated firmly with the ram, then load shot charge, leaving about 3/16" space to the face of the chamber. Weigh the shot charge and record the amount for future reference. Re-charge the chamber and seat another 1/16th card over the shot with the ram. daub a bit of your favorite BP revolver lube over the card, and give the charge a try at a target set at 10ft and observe the pattern. If you get a ring of shot, reduce the powder charge for the next try. Repeat until you have a fairly uniform shot pattern.
Ive built 45acp shotshells with #9 shot, cut down .308 brass, 410 wads and smokeless powder for my 1911 but never tried shot loads with black powder in my Ruger Old Army. Would be an interesting experiment.
Use Triple 7 as it's much more powerful then BP and you don't need as much. Leaves more room for the shot.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnetmill