foot pedal operated smelter-second try

I accidently erased all the pictures in this post. So I'll try again

Attachment 22445
Here is the smelter mounted on the stand
Attachment 22449
The top of the pot and the upper linkage
Attachment 22450
The foot pedal and lower linkage
Attachment 22451
The bottom of the pot, spout body and spout. The spout has different inserts of varying diameters.
Attachment 22453
This shows the two valve rod guides.Directly below them is the valve seat, it is a 3/8" radius machined into the spout body.
Attachment 22454
This is the tip of the valve rod, I turned a 3/8" radius on it using a lathe.

I used HotGuns' design, I merely added a foot pedal and linkage to his design. Like he said in his post this valve design will hold water. Once in a while it will drip if I bump the stand pretty hard. I left a shoulder on the top of the valve rod so I could add a weight to help put a little more pressure on the valve seat. This has worked pretty well for me, I have smelted 800-900 pounds so far. I can't say that it is better or worse than the turkey fryer/ dutch oven set up because this is all I've used other than a hotplate. I am currently building a dutch oven/ industrial water heater set up just to see the difference. jmsj

Very nice set up you made. I Like that foot pedal. I just do not understand how the top of the pot works? Do you have to unbolt it?

Bkid,
Here are some pictures of the top linkange


the picture on the left, the valve rod has a slot milled into it and a roll pin is installed to act as locating pin/ cam. The upper operating rod; the sides have been milled flat to fit the slot in the valve rod and a semi-circle is milled into it to locate it on the roll pin in the valve rod.
The picture on the right shows the linkage put together.
To take it apart, lift the operating rod on the end furthest away from the valve rod and just slide it out, it takes about a second to take apart or put together.
It works really well and doesn't come out unless intentionally removed. jmsj

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmsj

I accidently erased all the pictures in this post. So I'll try again

Attachment 22445
Here is the smelter mounted on the stand
Attachment 22449
The top of the pot and the upper linkage
Attachment 22450
The foot pedal and lower linkage
Attachment 22451
The bottom of the pot, spout body and spout. The spout has different inserts of varying diameters.
Attachment 22453
This shows the two valve rod guides.Directly below them is the valve seat, it is a 3/8" radius machined into the spout body.
Attachment 22454
This is the tip of the valve rod, I turned a 3/8" radius on it using a lathe.

I used HotGuns' design, I merely added a foot pedal and linkage to his design. Like he said in his post this valve design will hold water. Once in a while it will drip if I bump the stand pretty hard. I left a shoulder on the top of the valve rod so I could add a weight to help put a little more pressure on the valve seat. This has worked pretty well for me, I have smelted 800-900 pounds so far. I can't say that it is better or worse than the turkey fryer/ dutch oven set up because this is all I've used other than a hotplate. I am currently building a dutch oven/ industrial water heater set up just to see the difference. jmsj

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Nice work jsmj!
what is the angle of your valve seat beyond the radius? I have made a bottom pour but am still refining the valve seat. At the moment it wont hold water, but i would like it too pass a "water test" so that i will be a 100% sure that it will hold lead. I have only used a coutersink tool (90deg.) and turned the opposing part to match. I am thinking 60deg. with guidance of some sort like the radius on yours maybe and free floating of course. Anyone got any tips???
Thanks in advance to all in this great forum!!!!

bullbarrel033,
Thanks for the compliment.
If I understand your question correctly, you want to know what I used to cut the bottom seat of the valve in the base of the pot? I used a 3/8" ball end mill, I cut it in to 1/4 to 1/3 the diameter of the ball end mill.
The operating rod valve tip is turned to a 3/8" radius. After the parts were made and the pot welded together I lapped the valve rod and seat together using medium and fine lapping compound. I used a drill to spin the valve rod against the seat. While using the fine compound, I tested every so often w/ a couple gallons of water.
I hope this answers your question, if not contact me and I'll try to you the information you need. jmsj

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmsj

bullbarrel033,
Thanks for the compliment.
If I understand your question correctly, you want to know what I used to cut the bottom seat of the valve in the base of the pot? I used a 3/8" ball end mill, I cut it in to 1/4 to 1/3 the diameter of the ball end mill.
The operating rod valve tip is turned to a 3/8" radius. After the parts were made and the pot welded together I lapped the valve rod and seat together using medium and fine lapping compound. I used a drill to spin the valve rod against the seat. While using the fine compound, I tested every so often w/ a couple gallons of water.
I hope this answers your question, if not contact me and I'll try to you the information you need. jmsj

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Thanks jsmj, answer understood! I was thinking of lapping the valve seat parts together. You have made my decision easy!!

I cant beleive I missed this thread. I just want to say that the foot valve is one cool setup.
Thanks for the pics!

HotGuns,
Good to hear from you again.
Thanks for the compliment. I copied the smelter design from your post way back and just added the foot pedal. The stand and the foot pedal has worked out real well. Last weekend I smelted 486 pounds of WW's in about 5 hours by myself.
On one thread a while ago many people stated that the pictures on your original post were gone. If possible, I think a lot of people would like to see them.
Thanks again, jmsj

Very cool setup. What are you using for a heat source? Also, I presume that the lead flows through the square pipe to the 90* elbow?

buyobuyo,
Yes the lead flows through the square pipe to a 90 degree elbow. I used a piece of 3/4" square stock and drilled almost all the way through and tapped it for the elbow. I have a few different orifices to thread into the elbow to change the flow of the lead. I have one small orifice that I built so I could use it for pouring 6 cavity molds. It worked but I just don't shoot enough of one specific bullet and one specific alloy to justify firing it up pour the amount of one particular bullet/alloy.
The burner is one I bought off of ebay. It is very similar to the ones that are used on turkey fryers. If you are planning on building a smelter using one of these types of burners let me suggest that you also buy the matching orifice for the burner. I made my own and it was probably the most frustrating part of the whole project.
Good luck, jmsj