Newbie question. How important is it for sizing and seating dies to be absolutely clean internally? What is the best method of cleaning them? I think my dies have a slight build up of bullet lube build up inside.
Thanks,
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Newbie question. How important is it for sizing and seating dies to be absolutely clean internally? What is the best method of cleaning them? I think my dies have a slight build up of bullet lube build up inside.
Thanks,
I like mine clean. After every reloading session I take the two minutes and clean them out.
Rag and Dowel little bit of brake Clean or what ever is needed for the lube in them.
Good Reloading Ken.
I use a patch soaked with bore cleaner in a slotted jag, run it into the die with a twisting motion, removes lube and leaves a protective film on the interior of the die.
Real important on some calibers. If you get a build up of lube on the seater, the bullets go deeper and deeper in the case - pressure changes could be dramatic.
Just keeping the dies clean is a good habit. You paid good $ for the eqipment, might as well take care of it.
Thanks for the help, all.
Harry
GSM is right on, two that I know of for sure are the 9mm and the 40 S&W. doesn't take much seating depth change to make a big difference in pressures.
The word 'dies' is synonymous with cleanliness! To own a set of dies and not be meticulous about their cleanliness is sinful. You will have to determine what will dissolve the bullet lube (actetone, paint thinner, etc.). I always liked to use Kroil to clean and lubricate my dies. Don't use any abrasive to clean your dies. Your dies should remain as pristine as the day you purchased them as long as you clean your cases, keep your hands clean when reloading, and don't let any stray elements enter your reloading area. Get very familiar with your dies - study the instruction sheet and you will be able to disassemble and reassemble your dies with your eyes closed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry
I use a clean quart paint can with some super doper lacquer thiner I buy at Lowes. This not the regular lacquer thinner but the real hot stuff. Used up my gallon can and don't remember the name of it. Any way it disolver any lube ect. in the dies. Take off any "O" rings or they'll be gone also. End result sparkling dies.
I use orange oil based cleaners on both sizing and reloading dies, removes the gunk but it won't eat anything like o rings. De-Solv-It is the brand spray bottle I keep on my boolit prepping bench.
Store all dies in dust proof cases or plastic bags , oiled or waxed paper.
Dust will scratch a sizing or reloading die.
If it's been laying out rinse the die before use.
Since they removed sulfur from diesel fuel a couple years ago it's a better solvent.
I buy blue Nitrile gloves in 100 pc packs for $10. Since killing myself with carcinogenic solvent exposer seams so mundane. As everyone seams to be doing it these days.
Use carbide dies, dust isn't going to scratch them, it takes diamonds to polish them. Course I guess you might have diamond dust but I doubt it.
Regarding carcinogenic materials, lead, brass, lawn fertilizer, paint, motor oil the list goes on and on. Just live your life.
Most that claim to have scratched dies have a galled surface in the inside of the die creating scratches in the brass. The galling needs to be removed. Had this happen years ago with steel dies and some nickle plated cases. Polished out the inside of the cases, and solved the problem. Used the steel for years till I replaced them with some carbide ones I got in a box of stuff at a garage sale.
I got a set of dies sometime back. run a couple 357 cases and they were scrached bad. I cleaned them up and found out they were carbide. still had some scraches. took a 22 cal brush nd a small piece of the green scotch brite. I was surprized at the brass build up . they cleand up like new. I dont say to lube cases that are going to be sized by carbide but I do clean mine first.
Usually I don't lube pistol cases, but always rifle cases. Some tapered cases like the 30 cal. carbine I lube by putting them into a qt. plastic bowl and giving them a shot of Blaster "brand name" teflon spray. Some get a real good lube some don't but the die gets enough for all. Makes life much easier and Menards has the stuff on sale now and then for $.99.
For large rifle brass like 30/06 I use sizing wax. The only thing I don't like about it is when I tumble it loads up the corn cob media with wax/grease. If I have alot I usually run the brass thru a bath of gas, or white gas/naptha. Then let it dry before tumbling.
I clean my dies when I think they need it. A visual inspection tells me this.
When I do, I disassemble them, soak them in pure purple power for a bit, then rub any remaining dirt off with a toothbrush (q tip for tight areas) rinse, blast dry with compressed air, and lightly oil with silicone spray.
The one area that dirt really builds up on is the back end of an expander ball.
But it all depends. I have some guns that I shoot jacketed out of exclusively with neck size dies, and they have never been cleaned, nor do I see any need to.
A little Ed's Red on a paper towel wrapped bore brush works for me. Regards, Woody
I know some here will not agree but I use WD40 on my dies to flush out the grime. I squirt them good then shake them out in the trash can, and let them dry on a paper towel or two. Rebox them and put them away, I have never had a speck of rust or build-up on them in the thirty or so years of doing this.
I'm with mtgrs....I use WD40,,,,diassemble the die,,,,clean with WD40...wipe dry
and yes lub build up can cause bullet seating to be thrown off
I never used to be a big fan of WD-40, but a few years ago discovered that's all my dad ever used to clean his pre-64 model 70 Winchester. I can't tell you how many moose and caribou hunts that rifle has been on since the early '60s, most of them in extremely wet weather, and some around salt water. That rifle doesn't have a speck of rust on it anywhere.
Based on that I started cleaning my dies with WD-40.
Mike